Is it possible to modify the boost-cut feature so it kicks in more gently, rather than like hitting a brick wall? In cold weather I will hit boost cut occasionally (which is very annoying), but I don't want to remove or raise it and forgo that safety feature. It would be sweet if it could be set to open the WGA gradually as you approach the limit. Ideas anyone?

 

Well, boost cut really isn't boost cut, it is fuel cut. So, you couldn't have a more gradual cut, as that would dangerously lean the AFR.


Eric

 

Why don't you want to just raise it a bit? If your hitting it regularly enough you'll be harming your transmission, so bumping it up say, from 240 to 250, will still give you good protection from a real over boost situation but allow head room for those colder days.

MB

 

It only happened in cold weather, and when the intake temp is also still low, but still often enough that my tuner set the map to 281, and the delay at 2000 to get rid of the problem.

This avoids hitting boost cut, but is high enough to fully max out my boost gauge (2bar) and that makes me a little nervous. So I was thinking of setting it lower, but don't want the "hit-the-brick-wall" effect to come back every time I forget to drive 15+ min before getting on it in the mornings.

 

What type of boost control are you using that is spiking to 29 psi?

 

Works P2 flash. My car has always been weird about this though. When it's fully warmed up it runs perfectly fine, spiking to 1.7 (25psi) and taper to 1.5 (22psi) by redline. Only when the car is still cold and the outside air is relatively dense it will spike like nuts.

So I generally wait until the water temp is in the middle of the gauge, and the oil temp needle (Defi BF gauge) is of the peg at least before flogging it, and that works fine. Except sometimes I forget and get on it as soon as the water temp is up, and that's when it will max out on the boost gauge.

 

Ah ok, yea the works P2 does not have the BDEL set correctly. It is 159.4 in the whole table. This way the Error correction can not work correctly.

If you got the BDEL set correctly you will find that properly set, the error correction will do a better job with the spikes/overboosting.

 

Actually it's not 159.4 everywhere, but pretty close. Attached are all my boost settings (running a WR9 turbo btw). Can you tell me what they should be, or point me to where I can read-up on what they should be? Teach me Obiwan Kenobi, you're my only hope . Thanks!

 

If you have the ability to log, log WGDC in evoscan and 2byte load to see real load. The ecu-boost system uses a slightly different load then the 2byte load used by timing/fuel but you can get a good idea of the load curve.

Logging WGDC will show you if your WGDC is being added or subtracted to. Once you can see the WGDC curves and cross-reference it to your WGDC table, you will be able to see when Error correction is kicking in reducing WGDC or adding to it.

You can also log error correction as well to know exactly what the error correction is doing.

 

I found Waste Gate Duty Cycle (WGDC) in Mitsulogger but not the error correction. Do I need to use a newer release of EvoScan or is there a trick to see it in Mitsulogger as well?

 

WGDC:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=259494

Load Error, etc:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=288408

 

good reading - thanks

 

BDEL isn't leaving very much room up top....its almost maxed out from 3500 up. Your boost limit table is pretty high up in the rpm range as well.

The -20 and 8 is probably what is helping that spike anyway. When you start logging WGDC and Error correction you'll see how late the error correction is still set to -20 and WGDC is getting overpumped (it doesn't seem to read over 100 but when positive kicks in, it seems to take extra time to pull it back down....mrfred was talking about that in one of those threads around here).

If you need help let me know

 

I see now why you are reluctant. I would learn to tune the car yourself so you can have whatever boost you like ( within turbo limits) but did you ever questioin your tuner as to why you were seeing 2 Bar boost? Thats pretty extreme for a road car on pump.

MB

 

I did talk to Pete about it, and he tried to adjust the tune to account for it. However, like I said - it only happens under very specific circumstances which are difficult to achieve repeatedly, and that makes it hard to tune for. So I just adjusted my driving to work around it. Flogging the car without it being fully warmed up is bad anyway.

In the end no tuner will (or can) take the same amount of time to tweak the tune for every possible scenario as I can when doing it myself. They'd go out of business spending this much time on a single car, and I'd also be unwilling to part with my car for that long. That's why DIY/ECUFlash is such a great thing - I can tune/tweak as I go, making small incremental changes over months if need be until everything is perfect. I do very much appreciate all the work & enthusiasm the various people in the Evo "self-tuning-community" have poured into this - it's a great and wonderful thing!

Next step for me is to do the JDM MAP sensor mod so I can accurately log boost, and ...

while (tune < perfect)
... read
... learn
... tweak
... log
end

I'm sure I'll get it right eventually - after all, this stuff isn't rocket science