ok so i loaded up this map:




car is still overboosting, the connections on the 3 port are correct though (like int he pic posted by GST)

tomorrow i will wire directly to the wastegate to ensure its working. other than that it must be the way i wired up the boost solenoid. these are the wires below...which do i tap? any wiring diagrams for a JDM IX?

 

bump for help

 

mate there is only 2 wires.

work out which is the ground - easy

then use evoscan to enable WGsolenoid (in actuators menu) to work out the +ve...

 

i thought so to, the JDM has two boost solenoids (as in the pic). hence 4 wires both red and green so i am in a little bit of a s**t lol. i am gonna trial and error tomorrow??

how do i use Evoscan - i really did not think of that!

 

yeah I believe thats correct, dual BCS for JDM. whats the ROMID? 89980000 or something?

two of the wires should have 0 resistance, those should be gnd, check against chassis...

In evoscan (2.6+) click the actuators button (bottom right) then there should be "WasteGate Solenoid" or something similar, just click that button - Evoscan WILL connect to the ECU and put the solenoid ON... Now I am assuming that it will does the MAIN sol, not both...

so just measure the volts for EACH wire TO CHASSIS, and which ever is +12 is your one...

trial and error with a mutlimeter

good luck.. shouldn't be too hard.. WRITE EVERYTHING DOWN OTHERWISE U WILL FORGET!

 

ok so i just tried it....

apparently both red wires come from the same wire split into two (ignition or 12 volt wire).

i just switched to the other green wire, and now i am getting wastegate boost

SO, i decided to flash back to this rom to see how if i am "controlling boost via the ECU". the boost settings in the rom are below:



still only wastegate boost, i am stumped!!

thanks for the help so far though guys!

 

Ok your tables are all screwed up

Try theses settings:

Boost Control Load Offset = 90
Boost Desired Engine Load
159
159
159
155
155
150
145
140
135
130
125
120
115
110
105
100
Turbo Boost Error Correction
set all values on right side to zero This zeroes out the ECU correction
Max WasteGate Duty cycle #2
set all values on right side starting at 2250 to 20

Test boost in 3rd gear while logging the car and seeing what boost level you have
If the boost is only 11 psi, increase the MWDC values to 30 and relog the car keeping an eye on boost. You should be able to get around 22 psi tapering down up top. On stock block without headstuds I wouldnt to go more than 23 psi on 93 Octane. Add some more duty cycle up top to get the boost to hold out a little longer.

Be sure to keep a close watch on knocksum. Remove boost ( duty cycle ) if you start knocking more than 2-3 counts. Once you have the boost dialed in, check the load and enter the values back into the Boost Desired Engine Load table I usually enter values about 5 more than actual load reached.

Now go back and add correction back into the TBEC table. Do this sparingly usually not necessary to add more than 5% or subtract 5% now that you have it dialed in. Note that the factory settings graduate up and down from zero. Follow that trend just in much smaller increments.

Now that you have everything in the ball park, you can start to fine tune the car. Best to do this using a wideband. Most people dont run more than 3 degrees timing at peak torque and no more than 10-12 degrees up top. AFR should be in the 11-11.5 region using extended back to back logging runs. Watch your knocksums. I tune for 0-1 KS at all rpms as that is a little safer.

This should get you into a farly safe knock free tune. Be aware that large swings in temperature may need re-tuning. I usually have 4 tunes, one for each season, with the summer tune with reduced timing and slightly richer to quench any knock due to much hotter temps.

Personally on my 2005 MR, I run 2-3 degrees timing at peak torque, 11 degrees up top, 11.5-12.0 AFR and 21 tapering to 19 psi all on 93 octane. I have a downpipe, stock cat, and Magnaflow muffler, JDM EVO IX DV. Track days and autox I take the boost down 1 psi and back off the timng 1 degree across the board.

Hope this helps

Milburn

 

Also edit your Boost limit to ~ 250-270 rather than 319. 319 is essentially removing any safety limit ( not that you reach 319 load but better safe than sorry. )

With the GM solenoid, you will definitely be able to hear it clicking away from inside the car. Usually more louder under accel and decel.

When you get the car dialed in post back up and let us know how it is doing. You might PM razorlab, he's truly great at setting these up.

Milburn

 

wow thanks for the write up, i am gonna try it now....

only one season here lol - 30-35 degrees celcius in the day and 20-24 at night.

can i ask, what was causing only WG boost before? i was only seeing 14 psi at max.. (turned a few threads on my stock WG)

sorry i am just trying to learn. i am the only person in Trinidad running this 3 port boost solenoid so you guys are my only help!

 

UPDATE:

i did exactly what u said and changed the tables as per your request.

i am getting 11psi from 3000 - 5000rpm. from there its raising to redline to around 17psi? is this because of the WGDC readings or because i have zeroed out the TBEC?

i was gonna raise the WGDC in the 1000-5000 rpm range to 30 to see the effects when my gearbox linkage went loose .. i will be fixing this tonight and then tomorrow try to get a log done.

any ideas?

 

Ok now go in and raise the duty cycle on the MWDC table starting at 2250 and go up to about 50 % up to about 4500 You may have to go much further. Maybe even as high as 90%. It will need further testing and iterations. You need to raise the boost on the 3000- 5000 area to about 20-22 psi. Then depending how it holds to 7000 you might have to decrease the MWDC above 5000 to get it to hold a fairly constant boost. I would raise the duty cycle up at the bottom end and leave it alone on the top end while dialing it in.

You mentioned you were messing with the wastegate. If it is the stock wastegate, it should be set to 1/2 of the pin hole offset as preload. In other words, adjust it so that when holding the flapper closed you see 1/2 of the pin and have to pull the rod up to get it onto the pin. Do not adjust it tighter.

In answer to your question. Since the TBEC is now zeroed out, the ecu is not applying any correction to the duty cycle. This makes it easier for you to dial in the boost. Dial it in then start adding a bit of correction factor in. If the boost is dialed in correctly the ECU wont need to add or subract much. The reason you do want the TBEC table to add/subract a bit once dialed in is for safety and to allow the ECU to quickly correct for being off boost target. It will adjust the duty cycle up or down to help meet the load targets. If you have this activated when trying to dial in the boost, it becomes a moving target and you wont be sure of what your changes did. Plus if the boost is too low the ecu will just add in duty cycle to try to match the target load.

Post a snap shot of the newer tables again. along with data for boost and load.

BTW have you done a boost leak test yet ?

Milburn

 

i just did that....well after fixing my linkage lol

i pushed WGDC to 60 in early rpms (1000-4500) and no change in the boost profile at all!

11psi till 5000rpm then taper to 17psi.

i am real confused now....i think a 3 port pro needs to see my boost section in my rom.....

for some reason i cannot get more than the boost stated above!

i dont have a boost leak i overboosted to more than 25 psi with no problems. the stock car ran 19psi (very well) then i removed the twin solenoid for the 3 port.

the only thing i am thinking is my rom is setup wrong for boost (Ecuflash is playing games with me), JDMs and the 3 port dont work OR my car is crazy!

here are my maps....help! i got my first AutoX even tomorrow, wastegate boost on a conservative tune aint helping at all i am hitting 160 loads

 

Hmm bump the WGDC to 100 from 1000 to 4000 and see if that helps. Be careful and roll into throttle slowly

The lines to the 3 port are : 1 from turbo to metal port. If you blow air thru the metal port, the one that passes air needs to be hooked to the wastegate. The remaining line goes back to the small nipple on the turbo intake hose.

Can you hear the solenoid working ? You should be able to quite clearly. If not then suspect the electrical. Some people here have found solenoids that they purchased new to be defective. On the JDM it has two solenoids, similar to the european models. If you are logging correctly what is the MWDC showing ? It ought to be ~ 60% with the table above. If not there is something wrong somewhere. If the wastegate is not closed properly ( preload ) then you would see low boost levels too. Leaks generally show up first as faster taper from max boost and eventually show up as low boost levels and fast taper, though

The other thing to look at is the PCV valve. If it is leaking or stuck open, you will boost slowly too. You can take it off and clean it easily with spray cleaner on the inside.

Tables look Ok to tune with. You arent even close to the load limits so it is not pulling WGDC ( which is turned off anyways via the zeroed out TBEC.) Do you have a log to post? If so maybe one of the gurus on here can help out with a plan.

Milburn

 

Double check the wastegate activation deactivation rpms. Deactivate on/off should be 7500 and reactivate on off should be 2100 2250

IIRC the JDM and EDM solenoids were supposed to fire independently. The second one kicked in at like 4000 to remove more air signal getting to the WGA. Contact jscbanks he would definitely know if this is setup/wired wrong.

Milburn

 

ok i am gonna push to 90 in the early rpm and look for a gain.

i never hear the solenoid click, my exhaust is pretty darn loud, i never heard my stocker click either, i am hoping the 3 port is not stuck open!

i will try to contact jscbanks for further info, my real question, has anyone ever connected this to a JDM IX with luck?

i tune boost through load nor direct, so i dont log WGDC.