ok just spent sometime on the car.

the 3 port was still wired wrong. got it to work now

i raised WGDC to 50 in the early rpms - 1000 to 4500 and seeing 16.5psi

all i want is 23 psi peak and the best i can get at redline, 95 octane here so i dont wanna push further than that.

boost still needs some tuning in the mid rpms though, boost drops around 5500 rpm to 13 psi.

one problem though, my log is attached below, whats up with my 2 byte load????

BTW i am using Tephra's rom - 88580014

 

bump for help!

 

Oh no you didn't just bump

I'm guessing the solenoid was wired to the connection for the secondary BCS?

If you are trying to log 2 byte load and have not modified your MUT you may need to start there. It is in the evoscan definition but is not in the stock ROM until you add it there. There is a thread of how-to's and addresses/values.

 

oh yes i did

actually to wire the solenoid, you need to connect both green wires to the pigtail side with the resistor, then both red on the other side of the pigtail. any other combination did not work.

i guess i got some reading to do for 2 byte load!

my car has taken me 3 weeks to tune because of the problems with the 3 port, now i got 2 byte load problems!!!

i wonder what numbers i would hit with 23 psi peak and hold it at best to redline?

all i got is a TBE and K&N drop in! i hope its worth it!!!

fostytou where did u get the AEM tru boost gauge only?

 

I'm not sure about wiring both of those together. I guess I could imagine it, but I'm not sure you won't confuse anything or make anything else in the ECU have less fun.

I'm surprised you upgraded from dual BCS with only those mods, I thought with the secondary bleeder that system was pretty stout. (...but I don't have any personal experience with it)

You could always just use 1 byte load for now or 1 byte scaled (tephra v5.10 rom). Dropping the 2 byte load into your MUT is relatively easy though. You basically just have to enter the 2 hex values at the locations specified.

I bought the truboost and then harvested the solenoid for my 3 port ECU controlled boost. I kept the gauge in since its dead accurate and has peak boost recall. The only thing that is "problematic" is that it gives a P00 error on startup and will freak out with errors if you turn it to any other mode than off... both could be solved with a resistor but it doesn't bother me.

Are you tuning yourself? No offense meant here, but if you are having these problems with 2 byte and WGDC you may want to enlist some help. Again, not trying to knock you down, just trying to save you from popping a motor.

 

the twin boost solenoid got damaged when working on the car, plus i dont think it has capabilities to raise or lower boost. it does hold boost just as well though.

i have a tuner, but its an email tune and he is very good, but i think its pretty hard for him to fix my 3 port from the states and i am in the Caribbean

just did a few more logs, and i am using calculated load, is it really that bad? NOTE: i am not changing timing or AFR. just stabilizing boost and ensuring my ECU is actually changing as per my values in the WGDC tables.

i am nearly completed with boost, i never thought it would be this simple! one last question after i iron out exactly where i want my WGDC values, is there a generic table i can enter for TBEC? i am not really sure on what to add here since i would have gotten my boost in a good place only using WGDC.

Thanks again for all your help if i ever get to your area in the States i will buy some beers!

 

Calculated load is fine. Target is mostly just a matter of preference.

 

thanks bro, just wanted know. i am dialing boost right now and try to get a nice flat boost profile. should be interesting.

Thanks again i will give you guys an update on how well the car holds boost and a my numbers on the dyno when complete.

a guy from trinidad who tunes subarus and i are comparing mod for mod the power that can be made from adding parts.

he has meth/water, TBE, intake and 21 psi tuned. he made 285whp and 255ft-lbs.

i am hoping to to better that with my setup.

 

Ok back from a 2 day hiatus..

Glad to see you got the 3 port working. I had guessed it wasnt working from the rising boost throughout the rpm range.

Ok you got boost ...what are the gauge readings? Log for knock and raise the boost up to about 22-23 psi peak. Looks like you are about 16 17 psi from you last data post. Keep an eye on the knock.

If you get 22-23 and taper off in the higher rpm ranges raise the mwgdc above 5000 rpm. You will prolly have to taper the increase up to maintain a flat boost curve.

Once dialed type in the load values in the BDEL table #2 as i suggested before

If you hit a max of 230 tapering to 190 then put those values in and use the interpolate function to fill in the rest of the table.

You can then add in the TBEC values again. Since you will be hitting close to the target loads, you may not need the large adjustments ( 20 or -20 ) You can try 10 tapering to -10 in the table.

At that point tune the AFR and timing. Use the high octane fuel and the high octane timing maps. Going leaner in the AFR means you will have to redcue timing to keep knocksum in check.

Here in the states, on 93 octane, most people can run 22-23 psi holding to 21-20 and run about 3 degrees timing at peak torque ( 4500 ) and 10-12 degrees at peak rpm. Shoot for 0-1 counts of knock throughout the powerband.

I prefer to log in 3rd gear ( 6 speed MR ) and make multiple runs to induce heatsoak. that way my tune is very safe, if it dont knock on heatsoak, it will run very clean on hot days and track, autocross days.

AFR using a wideband should be in the 11-11.5 region for a little safety. Stock is around 9-10 AFR

Now that you got it working it just requires logging, checking the logs and changing values.

Your car should show a great increase in power once you have it tuned. 16 psi tapering to 11 might get you around 220 at the wheels. 23 tapering to 20 will get you in the 260 -270 region. It will be very obvious the car is faster and develops power in the high rpm region now.

Lastly, you should invest in a set of new plugs, gapped to .025 and install them. The large increase of boost will tend to need great spark to get it ignited, old plugs can have gaps of .032 or larger and WILL suffer high rpm misfire.

Let me know how it goes

Milburn

 

try

75
75
75
75
75
75 4500
80
85 5500
90
95 6500
100
100 7500


for the wgdc

just be very careful and watch the gauge closely.

Milburn

 

thanks for your help....man u write some detailed and long post

i am getting boost to log nicely! i am hitting 23 psi @ peak and 18 @ redline with some dips(need to bump WGDC mid rpm).

somehow my AEM is not working with Evoscan i have a feeling i wired in the Serial Port wrong!

by looking at the gauge i am maintaining under 12 AFRs constantly with some low 11s. so i think i am pretty safe there.

i also feel i can push a little timing at peak and redline *maybe*.

we get 95 octane here so i have a little more leeway. in addition i am using map switching, so i have a DD map (tuned @ wastegate boost) and an aggressive one (this one i am tuning now).

i am hitting ~260 loads tapering to 210. do i enter this in the BDEL? am i getting what your saying correctly?

for the TBEC table start at 10 and end at -10 and fill in the blanks with increments right?

i recently changed plugs to the OEM Densos, any need for changing those with the 4 psi increase in boost?

 

Great work. work on the dips alittle bit

Yes enter the 260-> 210 taper in the BDEL. If I was you i would enter the values sarting at 255 > 205 to allow the ECu to have a bit of safety IIRC you can copy that to all 3 BDEL tables. log after the change.

Yes start the TBEC at 10 and taper to 0 at zero and then - #'s tapering to -10 a the bottom. this will allow for a bit of adjustment. Log after this change and then you will see the load reaching a bit quicker.

AFR is a little high. Check the rpm then see what load you got at that rpm. Look at the timing and make sure that it is what the timing in that load / rpm calls for. Look at the knock for that load and rpm and make sure it is less than 2 counts.

I would add a bit of fuel ( 0.2 AFR ) in the 150-200 load cells to bring the AFR down a bit. You can log then and then add 1-2 degrees of timing to optimize.

So is the car much better now ? It ought to be :-)

 

Push the boost a bit more up top to get 23 tapering to 21 and she'll feel great.

Then do what I just posted above. You will hold load to about 220 then

it sometimes is a struggle to get things to work properly. I did not want to cut into the harness, so i made a plug from a second stock bcs. This makes it a plug and play op, and i have no chopped harness. Unfortunately the plug worked intermittently , until I gave the pins a slight twist to make better contact. The diagnosis was no audible operating sound and the low boost slowly tapering up like yours.

Send me a log to memery@metametrix.com I'll take a look at the load, timing and knock . Send me the ROM and I'll double check the tables and make suggestions for you.

Milburn

 

thanks again.

i am gonna try dialing in and fixing my serial cable!

 

im doing the swap to the gm 3 port any advice going into it?