Could be, I'll check it out soon enough. My suspicions are it's because you have an VIII and I have a IX. Let's meet up at a meet or something and compare notes. Do you still go to the TEMEVO meets? PM me if you do.

 

hey swoln wana try to disable that freaking egr on my 8???.........that engine light its driving me crazy...let me know. thanks.

 

I haven't attended any in a bit, keep a look out, i'll be attending the next one
..last time I saw you was aventura mall when I brought my cousin...

Cuz the hose is popped off, plug it up ...then remove all that egr junk.

 

Thanks a bunch!

Knowing that the check valve is not needed, is it possible it could help? I changed the text so far to:

Thinking about it though, the solenoid that you left on from above the canister might work just the same if the periphery bits for EVAP were turned off. In the end, I'm not sure what is is better... having a mechanical prevention or an electronic one. I tend to think mechanical is a little more reliable, but if you leave that EVAP solenoid connected you won't junk up the connector (in case anyone ever wants it later for some reason). At the same time, you could just bag it and have one less thing banging around back there.

I know what you chose, but what do you think?

If you recommend against the check valve on the canister side:
Do you still recommend against it near the IM if people want to keep the canister?
What did you do for the solenoid / hose configuration? Did you just connect the charcoal canister side of hose 7 to connection 2 and remove everything else other than the solenoid?

 

Come to Hooters tonight, I'll run the Evoscan and check the codes.

 

I took off everything as far as the canister? I see your point with the checkvalve, but don't think it's really needed, however, peace of mind goes along way

 

I thought this picture was from you



But I could be going crazy. It looks like 1 is capped off, 7 is left attached to 9 on one end and 2 is attached to the other end of 7.

This image is large, so I don't want to post it in-thread:
http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/rand...P_Overview.JPG

It makes a bit of sense (I was looking at it backwards at first) that the purge hose (1) would get capped since it is there for low flow vapor burning and the vent hose (2) would be left to the solenoid the equalize pressure when pumping or with temperature changes. This wouldn't facilitate the use of a check valve on 2 (vent) because the air does actually need to go both in and out.

The strange part here is that it seems both go to the same place. I can't tell if the charcoal canister is seperated in any way (with an internal check valve or something?)

All the manual says about operation is if you blow air into 7 toward the valve it should come out at both 3 and 4, but if vacuum is applied to 7 - 4 should not leak any air (check valve in 4?) The thing I don't get is that it looks like 7 just loops 4 and 3 to 15 (the vent pipe assembly) but it doesn't look like this goes anywhere outside this loop. This would all suggest leaving 2 open to air is OK, but why would they put this big loop and valve there if it didn't do anything?

-----
Uhg, I just wrote all of that and took a second look at the picture.

It looks like 1 goes to the engine bay, cap it or leave it, but preferrably cap it to keep crud out of the line.

2 is from the fuel tank and goes to the liquid seperator / rollover check valve

7 takes 3 and 4 to what looks to be a small air filter on 15 to allow for ventillation

=

I would now say you should cap 1. Bring connection 2 to the 3 connection on 15 with one of the hoses and cap the other one. Pull everything else and bag the electrical connector.

Anyone agree / disagree / have any input?
(referencing this picture's labels http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/rand...can_detail.JPG )

 

I remember what i did. THe hose you see capped i connected to the bigger hose that comes from the gas tank(plugged into each other) then tapped it up real nice for an air tight seal. That line should go all the way to the front of the car(you could put the valve on it, or let it hang or a filter)

The electrical connection for the evap canister i put electrical tape over it and zip tied it out of the way.

 

Cool, I like that method also.

I'll have to get down there and actually pull this thing down to see if 15 is actually a filter of some kind. If that is the case I think I'll stick with what I just posted. Thanks for the help!

 

piece 15 is a hollow vta collector. No filter whatsoever.

I am a little confused through reading this thread. I currently have hose #2 connected to the check valve, and hose #1 i have not done anything with. Evoryder, if I understand correctly, you looped hose 2 directly to hose 1?

 

Yes, thats what I understand he did. All this does is forward the vent from the rear to the engine bay. This would keep the nipples/pipes pretty clean, but is otherwise about the same as just leaving both open.

Do you know if 15 is open to air other than the 2 connections on it? Just trying to see if it could help prevent gunk from having (limited) access to the fuel system or if it should just be left off.

 

Correct. All the other junk is gone

 

piece 15 has the 2 hose connectors on the side, and an opening at the top. Some clay found its way into piece 15 from rallying in the desert.

 

So that said, it seems like what evoryder did is the best setup (connect 1 to 2, leave the rest alone).

The only thing I question is - in a freak situation could enough vapors build up to flash/auto-ignite in a hot engine bay with this hose disconnected?

We want the system open to air so the tank can breathe, we want the least chance for it to get gunked, and we want it out of the IM.... but we also don't want a fire.. especially there!

Does anyone know if this is any kind of realistic possibility in a total freak of nature situation?

I know, I'm getting to the details... but it seems like an important one!

 

Anything can happen...