Disabling EGR and fuel pressure solenoids
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
Likes: 132
From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
Thx MrFred.
I have two cars here, EDM Evo9's using the stock ROM 88840016, and they both have Magnus intakes on.
I am going to try the above on them to see if I can get rid of the EGR/EVAP error codes.
Can you please confirm that the "1041" address is correct for the 88840016 ROM.
Thx.
I have two cars here, EDM Evo9's using the stock ROM 88840016, and they both have Magnus intakes on.
I am going to try the above on them to see if I can get rid of the EGR/EVAP error codes.
Can you please confirm that the "1041" address is correct for the 88840016 ROM.
Thx.
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 394
Likes: 7
From: Used to be in Nor Cal, now working in Seoul
So did everyone fix the cold start idle problem using mrfred's complete EGR shut off bit?
If I understood it correctly, EGR is operating for all temperatures if not disabled? Then if EGR is disabled, do I have to either disable warm up ignition retard completely (using periphery bit or zeroing out the control map) or change the low coolant ignition retard map by the amount of EGR ignition advance not to have "too much ignition retard" during the warm up?
If I understood it correctly, EGR is operating for all temperatures if not disabled? Then if EGR is disabled, do I have to either disable warm up ignition retard completely (using periphery bit or zeroing out the control map) or change the low coolant ignition retard map by the amount of EGR ignition advance not to have "too much ignition retard" during the warm up?
So did everyone fix the cold start idle problem using mrfred's complete EGR shut off bit?
If I understood it correctly, EGR is operating for all temperatures if not disabled? Then if EGR is disabled, do I have to either disable warm up ignition retard completely (using periphery bit or zeroing out the control map) or change the low coolant ignition retard map by the amount of EGR ignition advance not to have "too much ignition retard" during the warm up?
If I understood it correctly, EGR is operating for all temperatures if not disabled? Then if EGR is disabled, do I have to either disable warm up ignition retard completely (using periphery bit or zeroing out the control map) or change the low coolant ignition retard map by the amount of EGR ignition advance not to have "too much ignition retard" during the warm up?
The EGR builds duty cycle as coolant temp increases.
Some people report problems related to disabling this periphery bit, while others do not. I believe there is a thread dedicated to this issue that will likely be of more help to you. The only way to see if it is a problem for you is to test and see. If it is, there are things you can do to help.
That said, you should not disable the periphery bit because it may control more than just the EGR enable/disable. MrFred has posted another bit that will only change operation of the EGR. This is the bit that should be used and will not cause cold start issues.
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 394
Likes: 7
From: Used to be in Nor Cal, now working in Seoul
This has been answered repeatedly.
The EGR builds duty cycle as coolant temp increases.
Some people report problems related to disabling this periphery bit, while others do not. I believe there is a thread dedicated to this issue that will likely be of more help to you. The only way to see if it is a problem for you is to test and see. If it is, there are things you can do to help.
That said, you should not disable the periphery bit because it may control more than just the EGR enable/disable. MrFred has posted another bit that will only change operation of the EGR. This is the bit that should be used and will not cause cold start issues.
The EGR builds duty cycle as coolant temp increases.
Some people report problems related to disabling this periphery bit, while others do not. I believe there is a thread dedicated to this issue that will likely be of more help to you. The only way to see if it is a problem for you is to test and see. If it is, there are things you can do to help.
That said, you should not disable the periphery bit because it may control more than just the EGR enable/disable. MrFred has posted another bit that will only change operation of the EGR. This is the bit that should be used and will not cause cold start issues.
I know this has been discussed at this thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...rt-help-2.html
But I didn't see any follow-ups about the result, therefore, I asked the question here.
I will definitely try mrfred's bit after I clean my intake manifold and install 4 bar map sensor. I hope this will keep my intake manifold clean and reduce some knocks during early boost build up.
Evolving Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 214
Likes: 1
From: South Africa
ok, after some more disassem of the EGR routines, I have found that Periphery 0 (FAA) bit11 does not actually shut off the EGR system until the coolant temp passes ~68C. Its ok to use if you plan on ripping out all the EGR stuff. However, it turns out that there is a byte length value that completely disables the EGR system and is a better choice to use.
For USDM Evo 8 94170008-15 and EDM Evo 8 96530006 use:
<table name="EGR System Enable/Disable" category="Emissions EGR" address="103D" type="1D" level="2" scaling="uint8"/>
For USDM Evo 8 96420007-11, 96940011, and USDM Evo 9 88590013-15 use:
<table name="EGR System Enable/Disable" category="Emissions EGR" address="1041" type="1D" level="2" scaling="uint8"/>
A value of "0" disables the EGR system and sets the EGR duty to 0% all the time. "1" enables the EGR system.
Oct 4, 2009 - Fixed to show that the EDM Evo 8 96530006 address is 103D instead of 1041.
For USDM Evo 8 94170008-15 and EDM Evo 8 96530006 use:
<table name="EGR System Enable/Disable" category="Emissions EGR" address="103D" type="1D" level="2" scaling="uint8"/>
For USDM Evo 8 96420007-11, 96940011, and USDM Evo 9 88590013-15 use:
<table name="EGR System Enable/Disable" category="Emissions EGR" address="1041" type="1D" level="2" scaling="uint8"/>
A value of "0" disables the EGR system and sets the EGR duty to 0% all the time. "1" enables the EGR system.
Oct 4, 2009 - Fixed to show that the EDM Evo 8 96530006 address is 103D instead of 1041.
Thx MrFred...
Any chance you have the address for the 90550001 Evo7 Rom?
Thx
I just had the one big cap come off of my intake mani that you used a fuel line clamp on.. man i love your ideas, cause they work. This is the second big leak issue you helped me with now.. the other one was the omni4bar map oring.. thanks!
Note: I only have the EGR deleted
Edit: Looks like fosty answered my question already (post #133) Looks like I need to get some vac. caps...
Last edited by nonschlont; Jul 11, 2010 at 03:38 PM.
I noticed in this pic ^, that on the TB, the 2 connections that are capped off... Do they need to be individually capped off, or can I have a hose that runs from 1 side to the other? Cause on my set up, theres one lil hose that routes to the other connection...
Note: I only have the EGR deleted
Edit: Looks like fosty answered my question already (post #133) Looks like I need to get some vac. caps...
Note: I only have the EGR deleted
Edit: Looks like fosty answered my question already (post #133) Looks like I need to get some vac. caps...
Last edited by tscompusa2; Jul 12, 2010 at 05:28 AM.
Theres no way the ones I got are gonna blow.. the rubber is so thick.. and im almost positive its the same one in the picture. I did exactly what he did.. Used the cap and the fuel line clamp.. its not going anywhere.............. that rubber is THICK. the colored thin caps blow............. i had one blow on me.
oh ****.. i guess that explains an issue i have ..... barely making 600whp on a dynojet at 39psi.. i have those looped. so thats a big boost leak? LOL. I didnt know it went to the EGR.. my egr is blocked off but still.. i will individually cap them off today i guess. I dont see how it can be a big leak tho, cause i can pressure test to over 33psi or until the tester pops off and when i let it bleed down from 33psi it takes 1-2minutes to bleed down to 0psi.
There is no way that is a boost leak if you have a vaccum line looping the two nipples off the TB. One comes out of the TB then right back in... how does this affect the EGR or cause a boost leak???
Ive felt like there was some minor lil leak somewhere, (and date it back to, right ~ that time) and havent been able to figure out what/where it is, and I dont think its my imagination... Its worth a shot...
