Disabling EGR and fuel pressure solenoids
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
I've been looking for a cap to go onto the nipple on the heating tube that goes around the back of the motor which used to connect to the heater core. I've purchased EPDM and Nitrile (available at NAPA) and they both crack after several months. This would have to be a big one, I don't know how big off hand but I'd say somewhere around 3/4". I can't find a suitable material for high pressure and temp.
Originally Posted by tscompusa
did i order the right ones? Line Quantity Item Ships Unit Price Total Price
1 1 Pack 92805K31 Push-on High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Cap Fits 3/32" Outside Diameter, 3/4" Inside H, Packs of 100
thanks guys. gonna order a set of those, right now...
Edit: Just bought a set...
and from reading the other "removal" thread, seems , next, I/we need to get a plug for the head, if we dont already have 1... Labor on that is gonna be a "bia bia"
did i order the right ones? Line Quantity Item Ships Unit Price Total Price
1 1 Pack 92805K31 Push-on High-Temperature Silicone Rubber Cap Fits 3/32" Outside Diameter, 3/4" Inside H, Packs of 100
thanks guys. gonna order a set of those, right now...
Edit: Just bought a set...
and from reading the other "removal" thread, seems , next, I/we need to get a plug for the head, if we dont already have 1... Labor on that is gonna be a "bia bia"
Last edited by nonschlont; Jul 15, 2010 at 03:07 PM.
Perfect. ill copy that tomorrow but with fuel line clamps i dont have worm clamps that tiny. my next dyno visit ill give you a shoutout in the thread since you help me with boost leak stuff
^ yes! A shout out. lol
The bolt used is a snug fit for the fuel hose. Also added yellow teflon tape + goop. That thing aint going no where and it's fuel hose so don't have to worry about heat / tearing.
The bolt used is a snug fit for the fuel hose. Also added yellow teflon tape + goop. That thing aint going no where and it's fuel hose so don't have to worry about heat / tearing.
yep. I noticed as soon as I capped off my vac lines on TB my a/f at idle instantly sits at 14.7-15.5 now.. it used to be stuck at 12.5.. now it sounds like a evo that actually has cams. I still get the idle drop/ stall sometimes tho....... you think its the acel and decel tables in the ecu that need tweaked? or possibly i have to readjust the biss and ecu idle rpm?
the SAS actuator when engaged it idles at like 1300 where as ecuflash i have it set for 1039 or w/e and by itself it will sit at 1100 now.. so they are all out of wack pretty much. I will play more with it later on, but youre right it is the tune.. its the fuel trim. I never tuned my low fuel trim, just the mid.. the low is pegged at -12. I need to tweak the MAF scaling and get it done. Did you do the screw mod on the maf? where you can peel off silicone on maf and backout some plastic screw to be flush so it doesnt restrict airflow as much? applaudd told me about that one.
My mini battery also died again today after charging it to 100% and not having an issue for 48 hrs, so that mini battery is history.. not dealing with that **** anymore. optima in trunk and done. pos mini battery! I think the battery has lots to do with the issues im having also.
My mini battery also died again today after charging it to 100% and not having an issue for 48 hrs, so that mini battery is history.. not dealing with that **** anymore. optima in trunk and done. pos mini battery! I think the battery has lots to do with the issues im having also.
Last edited by tscompusa2; Jul 15, 2010 at 08:54 PM.
Im doing the redtop in trunk tomorrow. What kit did you use for the enclosure and etc? What about the SD how is the idle control/ etc..? I should do SD since im flowing massive amounts of air.



Same offer goes for me...