Disabling EGR and fuel pressure solenoids
I don't have hope for the chemical version ...only diff with those are that they are black, they withstand less heat and are slightly stiffer than the pink condom looking ones I got.
@ this point, I guess I'll just keep em, strap a couple in, and see how long they'll last. @least till we find another solution...
Im very curious, if this will cure the lil idle issue...
Well I was hoping getting rid of the loop and capping both vacuum ports was going to be a jackpot, but my idle is still f'd. I know there's a vacuum leak somewhere in the throttle body, I just need to figure out where. My car won't idle below 1,000 rpm, even with the IAC at 20. Now I'm wondering if that little choke under the IAC could somehow be stuck open, and not closing when the car comes up to temp.
ya for some reason i typed out The BISS and throttle cable go hand in hand with idle. did you change either of these yet?
but never hit reply, but im curious how do you clean the iac? nm youtube ftw lol
but never hit reply, but im curious how do you clean the iac? nm youtube ftw lol
I've done a boost leak test, and cleaned my IACV. I know there isn't a boost leak, I just think there may be a leak that is passing the throttle plate in the throttle body. The only possibilities other than the IACV are the choke under the IACV, and the BISS screw. But my BISS screw is turned all the way in so that the car will idle at 1100 RPM, so I don't think that is the issue. I'm really wondering if my choke could be stuck open. It seems to me that would definitely cause a high idle.
i think the red caps will work we got temp wise, but what are they rated boost wise? i daily drive with 35-36psi, i dont see how its going to hold this.. the caps seem to thin.
i might just have someone weld my lines shut and that will be the end of that problem
i might just have someone weld my lines shut and that will be the end of that problem
these will work http://www.boostcontroller.com/index...p%26cond%3DAND
I had one on my car on the bigger outlet on the intake manifold on the dyno but only ziptied on, with that fuel line clamp it wont ever shoot off. those are pure silicone and can handle over 100psi
I had one on my car on the bigger outlet on the intake manifold on the dyno but only ziptied on, with that fuel line clamp it wont ever shoot off. those are pure silicone and can handle over 100psi
I've done a boost leak test, and cleaned my IACV. I know there isn't a boost leak, I just think there may be a leak that is passing the throttle plate in the throttle body. The only possibilities other than the IACV are the choke under the IACV, and the BISS screw. But my BISS screw is turned all the way in so that the car will idle at 1100 RPM, so I don't think that is the issue. I'm really wondering if my choke could be stuck open. It seems to me that would definitely cause a high idle.