It's not that simple. After all these years, I have yet to get this to work. My ROM or EvoScan definition file (Who knows which) is causing me to have two sets of "switches". Each set has different values from the other and switching one affects the other. I have never been able to find a combination that works.
With all the instructions on this thread, each suggestion involves settings from each of my sets. Again, changing one affects the other. Rinse repeat.
No mechanic nor tuner has been able to get my car to pass the OBD check, come smog time.
I gave up long ago.

 

when I talk about the readiness check, I mean the general idea behind it on cars in general. On a completely factory car with factory software it should show "ready" very quickly. There is little to do.

 

That issue sounds ROM related. I had a stock IX rom and it has worked flawlessly three times now with the patch posted in this thread. I would try checking your defs and make sure you don't have anything that could conflict or try flashing back to a stock ROM before patching.

 

I'm on a flex fuel ROM and have no access. I'd lose everything if I tried to start over.
For smog, I just put the stock ROM in along with the cat. Just wish I didn't have to.

 

Ah gotchya. Probably better off with stock ROM for smog anyway if possible, some people have been failing smog with certain maps. Apparently some computers are checking CVN now, although I haven't run into issues with this.

 

Can you elaborate on the CVN issue? I don't know what that is.

 

Its a hash of the ROM that can be compared to a known value inspectors can reference.

 

Any info on checking this number with our OpenPorts? Also any idea what that known value could be or where to find it? Will the stock ROM files available have the correct CVN or will it change when flashed?
Like I said before, I haven't run into issues with this and I am running the patch. I'd love to be able to avoid getting dinged for it, nearest ref is 3 hours away haha.

 

Unfortunately all I know about it is what is listed under the OBD 2 standard information. Which isn't much. It's left up to the OEM how they want to go about computing the value. Theoretically it should be possible alter the rom to provide a CVN query with a static, programmed value. That is still a bit above my pay grade to figure out though.

 

Hey man, why did you change Part 2 from 6AA1? it doesn't show any difference to me lol. also you have enabled heated catalyst, EAE5 @ 3A928 works for me, keeps everything else but keeps heated catalyst at on for me

 

Rinoz - are you working on an evo 9? or evo 8?

Your car does NOT have a heated catalyst from the factory. You WILL FAIL if you show this as "ready" when you are tested.

 

My rear O2 sensor has wires for the heater and it does get warm.

 

OK - heated catalyst.... let me explain.

A heated catalyst is DIFFERENT than a heated oxygen sensor.

Let's take a second and step back. Into the 80's or 90's. Let's talk about oxygen sensors. They didn't have widebands back then. Oxygen sensors of this generation work by "magically" generating their own voltage when they compare the oxygen content of what is INSIDE the pipe with the oxygen content that is OUTSIDE the pipe. If the mixture is rich, then the oxygen content inside the pipe will be LOW compared to what is outside of the pipe. This difference causes the voltage to go HIGH. If the mixture is Lean, then the oxygen inside of the pipe is similar to what is outside so the voltage created is low. This is a really low voltage. The highest a narrow band sensor can generate is about 900mv. That's less than a volt!. The problem is, they only work when they get smoking hot. And back then sensors did not have heaters in them to make them hot. This meant that the oxygen sensor was useless when the engine was first started because it was stone cold. Think of it as blind until it warms up. The exhaust gases were what would warm it up also (because there was no internal heater). In the 90s or so they started putting heaters INSIDE of the oxygen sensors, so they they would get smoking hot fast. The idea here is that the sensor warms up- and then it can generate it's own voltage with the mixture being rich or lean.

Think of the temperature of the oxygen sensor as a "resistance". If the resistance is high (sensor is cold) the voltage that the sensor magically creates won't be able to create voltage (think of this like water pressure in a pipe) when the mixture is rich.

The whole idea here is get the car into close loop so it can run at stoich as quickly as possible. That's why our cars have heaters in the oxygen sensor.

Heated catalyst is DIFFERENT.

Heated catalyst gets the catalyst warm quickly so it can store oxygen and release it faster. Since the catalyst only gets heated up by the exhaust itself- your catalyst is not doing anything good for the environment until it gets warm.

When a car is designed from the factory by the OEM it must go through emissions testing to make sure it meets the standard. The OEM (mitsubishi in our case, but this does not matter who they are all the same) will add as few things as possible to get the car to meet the standard for this time.

Obviously this costs money, and takes away OEM profit. They want to add as little as they can to make the cars pass the government standards. OBD2 dictates that if they put a system on the car to help emissions, it must be monitored. So for example, one of these controls would be catalyst, another would be oxygen sensor, another would be oxygen sensor heater, another would be misfire. These are all seperate systems. Every time you add a system to the car, it takes hardware (sensors) or software to make it work. This costs money.

Lets examine one of these as an example. Let's pick "heated oxygen sensor" for the fun of it.

The car knows that if the heater in the oxygen sensor is working the resistance in the sensor itself should fall quickly. Let's say for sake of argument that it should be fully heated up with a working oxygen sensor heater in 30 seconds. This means that the oxygen sensor will have a resistance low enough to generate 900 millivolts when the sensor is seeing a rich mixture. - it wouldn't work like this if the sensor was cold, but since we should have a working heater it does. And it should be fully heated up within 30 seconds...

Now that being said- we can write a software "check and balance" that says, hey- after 60 seconds, the mixture better be switching rich to lean- because I KNOW my heater should be pulling the resistance down which allows the voltage generated to go high, like 900 mv.

So for this example, the software check for the heated oxygen sensor would be satisfied if this software check works.

this is something I work with a lot, mostly for diagnostic purposes. I know very little in life but I am interested and enthused by diagnostics so I hope this helps you all understand better.

 

Here you get a better idea of what a heated catalyst would look like.

The idea here is that there is a heating element that heats up the exhaust gas to make the catalyst work better when it can't be properly heated up by combustion from the engine itself....

No Evo I've ever seen comes with this, so DON'T configure your car where this shows as "READY"....

 

I'll be honest. I skipped to the picture to understand what you meant.

I didn't even notice a "heated catalyst" section. That's probably good news because it means I haven't had it pop up. Woot.