Yes it could, make sure it is disabled.

 

So I tried to disable it yesterday and I guess my 1.3 cable won't be able to do it because I'm using a mac with version 1.38.2080. I also tried using my buddies 2.0 cable and it still didn't work at all. Any idea's??

 

Well if you can read and write to the ecu, then you should be able to disable the immob. Cant help on the MAC side of things. But either cable will work if you can read/write to ecu. Make sure you are disabling it properly.

 

With the old 1.3 cable I'm able to read it but I can't write anything because of that code I mentioned previously. With the 2.0 cable I can't even read anything from my ecu.

 

OK, I have been working on this for a while. I but for some reason i cant get my car to run on the evo 8 ecu. It will start, (although it does start hard. The Fuel pump doesnt come on with the key, I have to try t0 start the car and then the pump will start to run. It almost seems that The longer I let the car turnover the longer thepump will run. And the car wont hold fuel pressure after I turn it off. ) The car will start but it doesnt hold 14.7, It will be more in the 13's. After it warms up and switches over to using the map on the ECU it willl go pig rich. I have adjusted the fuel tables. But it doesnt make much of an effect. Latley it will fall to 10.0 or lower while ideling. Now when it is reading the front O2 sensor it stays closer to stoichiometric 14.7. But it doesnt seem it ever get there. At one point I had it idleing perfectly but then my front O2 sensor went bad, So i replaced it and it fixed alot of problems. But Not all. Once in a while my Short term fuel trims will jump to +24 and then to -12 or greater. I also cant seem to get my tune to be dialed in. Either the timing right either.. But mainly the fuel. I have a translator and a GM 3 " MAS sensor. I also have been having problems with a battery that sometimes holds a charge and sometimes I have to put a jump box on it. To get this ECU working so that I can actually use it as a daily driver for a few. I have acually taken all the mods off the car and gone back to stock to eliminate some possiblity of a mod causing a problem. So I have the stock intake manifold, Exhaust mani is stock, and injectors are now back to stock from the 1000cc. I do not run an intake CAI. It seems to run much worse with it on. I have researched how one that doesnt squeezze, or conpress will cause a problem.. I have been running just an open stock turbo. I read the datalogs from EVOscan and My 2byte MUT LOAD is reading way off. I have also read Merlins MUT section and I am not sure but I think My MUT address is wrong which is keeping me from editing the correct tables. I also have a problem with a CEL p0115 Or Coolant temp Circut malfuncion. I have replaced the coolant sensor. I went to a Junk and pulled that section of the wiring harness and cut and soldered the new one in. Now it did look better than orginal one. I hooked up new wiring for O2 sensor, Temp sending sensor, The coolant temp sensor, and the other one in the neck. IF someone can please review my tune and tell me what I am doing wrong. I have also switched over the Rear O2 sensor to be the Wideband and soldered the connection. I will post my tune and if anyone knows the MUT address for my auto 92 1g I would be appreciated. I cant go back to my stock ECU, It was sacrifaced to make my harness for the EVO8 computer. If anone can open my rom and give me a sugestion I would appreciate it. It seemed easy working with my STI ECU when tuning it with Enginuity. Seemed very simple. With the 4G63 and the EVO 8 ecu I have to admit I feel overwhelmed. I have a fresh motor ad brand new head. This thing should run great. UGh.. And no one around me even has a clue what I am talking about when I start to ask questions.
Jack if you can take a look and help me out I would appreciate it..

 

I will try to help a bit but its mind numbing to read that giant block of text you posted, it feels like a run-on sentence. Please try separating it a bit for easier reading next time.

Using the MAFT is gonna be a pain with this conversion unless you KNOW how to tune. I would make sure any settings are zero'd out for now. You are on a Tephra V7 patch which no longer uses 2byte load. You need to use 1byte load.

You might be better off going with the Speed Density version rather than the MAFT to be honest.

Your coolant temp system should be working just fine with the evo8 ecu if it was wired correctly. I have done it in a few DSM's now and it always works fine. If there is an issue, I'd start with the wiring.

Try to get a log of the car at idle and log the following:

• RPM
• 1byte load
• timing
• Fuel Trim Low (LTFT)
• Oxygen Feedback Trim (STFT)

then we will go from there.


Also, your injector latencies (dead time) seem a bit high for the 450cc injectors. Do you know for certain that those are correct for those injectors?

-Jamie

 

Coolant temp will affect allot of what you are having problems with. Get that worked out. What does evoscan show for coolant temp? Id also just ditch the maft and go speed density, or to a evo maf, or even a 1g maf. Im sure the scalings are out here somewhere for it.

 

I got my '92 laser running on an '05 EVO 8 ECU tonight, fired up first try with an EDM map with the immobilizer disabled. I am running stock EVO injectors and MAF so it runs awesome out of the box!

Peter

 

Have a slight problem, was looking for some advice.

Car is a 92 GVR4 running a 2003 Evo ECU on E-85. The car had been running very well on the early version of the big map USDM roms. When I switched to the latest one, the car began to throw CEL's for the cam and crank position(Running a black top hall effect). So I switch to the EDM rom.

With the EDM rom, the ECU loses the cam/crank position codes, but picks up a CEL for the knock sensor circuit. If I switch back to the USDM rom, I lose the knock code, pull the cam/crank codes. I can do this indefinitely.

On the USDM ROM, the cam/crank codes are constant. Immediately upon turning the car on, and nothing eliminates them. To eliminate any immediate responses involving wiring, I can assure you with 100% certainty, it isn't the wiring or a connector.

On the EDM ROM, the cam/crank code is gone as expected at initial startup. The car will run for an arbitrary amount of time without a problem. Then it will randomly throw the code and I'll get a high flash knock CEL at any load point past the knock detection cutoff. Clearing the code will again result in this arbitrary length of clean time, then a code and load flashing.

I had the car on the dyno the other day running the EDM ROM and due to the loss of the code upon reflashing, I was able to tune the car, but it cannot be driven with any regularity due to the knock sensor problem.

Other than switching to an AEM, which is a totally viable alternative at this juncture, anyone have any insight into knock sensor circuit malfunction specific to the EDM ROM? I have gone through 3 sensors, all of which worked fine. I have isolated sensor ground body location #7, which provides all ground for any 5 volt sensor and the knock sensor. I have checked resistance through both sensor wires, both the ECU signal wire and the ground and both are at zero. I have even swapped ECU's running the same map and have the same problem.

Ideas?

/brox

 

What did you torque the knock sensor to? The USDM rom's will ALWAYS throw the cam/crank codes and that's really the only reason we prefer to use the EDM 9653 rom. Is it a built motor or does it have a balance shaft delete? The knock multipliers may need to be adjusted via det-cans if your engine is noisier than stock.

-Jamie
(aka Jack_of_Trades)

 

The knock sensor is at FSM spec. The motor is running Evo Pistons on 1G rods. It's not incredibly noisy. In addition, it's not a matter of it detecting knock. It shows knock under any load above cruising and throws code P0325, but again, does this at random times and not with initial start up on a fresh ECU.

It also does not knock, until it this code is thrown. The tune on the car had it showing zero knock in 100 degree heat at 19 PSI on the dyno. This tune has not changed and no changes to the map effect this problem I'm having. It's not real knock and I already know that. It may drive normally for a mile or 20, then, throw the code, to which I can find no electrical or physical reason for, and then, knock like crazy under any load scenario.

I would call it intermittent but it happens every time I drive the car and always does the same thing, just at random times. As per my testing, it is not the sensor, it is not the sensor wires, neither ground or to the ECU, and it is not the ECU. And, it only happens on the EDM rom. The USDM rom does not throw this code. It also never clears itself. Once it has thrown the code, the car will start with this condition until I clear, at which point, another random length of time until it reappears.

/brox

 

Im looking at doing the evo computer swap in my 88 gvr4 and can get and adapter harness for a evo 3 to evo 6 ecu would this work any help would be greatly appreciated. Regards Robert

 

Have you logged the knock sensor voltage?

 

Just got my harness done and was wondering what the pin differences between the 90 and 91+ were. All the pinouts for the dsm i found only show two pins being different and wanted to know what everyone running this on a 91+ switched.

 

Has this been resolved already? Pin24 is also connected to other parts that put load to the electrical system i.e., defogger, h/lamps, AC, among others. If the loading part gets switched/uses 12V, pin24 will tell the ECU to open the IACV a bit and increase idle. Chk the FSM defogger ckt and pin24 is also there. On the EvoI~III, a diode is wired in series with the loading part going to the ECU. Sorry if this reply is late but HTH.