Agreed. I tried the other "universal" roms....I had tons of little issues. Back on 0015 and all is good

 

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That's what it looked like to me. It struck me as strange at first, since you'd think you'd want to conserve cycles at higher RPM, but then again, I don't think Mitsubishi engineers wrote any of the code we're looking at: I'm pretty sure a compiler did.

 

out of curiosity how will tuning boost be affected by this enlargement? will the boost maps (wgdc ect...) have to be enlarged or rescaled as well if your using this space for higher rpms ?

 

No other axis' should be affected. I believe Tephra said that he kept the original axis' scaling in tact for any other maps that used to share the axis' with fuel/igntion before.

 

Yeah I have that table defined just never played with it yet. You should be able to run 9653 without any issues as well. ALL 8's can run this ROM.

 

Yes, we can 'run' that ROM but it has that issue right out of the box. So until someone figures out the magic figures to make it perform like the 94170015 rom, I wouldn't say that it runs 'without any issues'.

[/off topic] lol

 

I guess, but I don't consider it an issue, just an inconvenience I hardly notice on my car when I drive. Maybe we are talking about something different cause my car isn't that bad.

My issue: When I leave of the gas my car goes rich (around 10-11-12 AFR) stays there for about 5 seconds then comes back down. Car sometimes bucks a little but not that bad at all. Is this what everyone else is experiencing?

It's def. in the fuel cut decel table just have to find out how to fix it. You are right though it only happens when switching to 9653 cause if I switch back to 9417 it goes away.

I am going to compare those maps from 9417 to 9653 and see if I come up with anything.

 

throttle hang i am used to, i have a 9, i would LOVE to fix it but that is not the problem i have with converting 8s to 9653. Out of the three i have converted (i only convert '05s to this rom) i have had stalling issues. Car is rolling, clutch goes in, rpms drop and car wants to stall or does stall. Always when moving, however stopped idle is intermittently rocky but for the most part is stable.

One local was so bad with stalling (no boost leaks) i had to convert him back. I logged his ISCV and they were HIGHER then his stock rom. I just went back to the stock rom and said eff it.

 

OK I would consider my issue throttle hang then.

I did have stalling issues but resolved them by setting my BISS screw adjustment to match the ECU. I was then receiving an SES code about my idle stepper motor being out of normal range and fixed that by disabling the check in the Periphery bits by setting FCA (Periphery 2) bit 08 to 0.

Have you tried that?

 

i would adjust the BISS screw if i knew what to adjust it too. Normal idle is typically fine and it only happens when the car is rolling.

 

The way to adjust it is let the car completly warm up. In EVOScan set the car into BISS mode (can't remember what you actually click, anyone else know?) once that is set you adjust it to within 800 RPM + or - 50 RPM. Then you deactivate the mode and you are good to go. What it does it put the car into a mode where the ICSV stepper is not trying to adjust anything that way you can set the screw correctly.

 

+1 for this ROM

 

I'm late to this party but my .02 cents.

even at 500+ load I'm not feeling the need fore more columns, I just rename what I have.

However, I would love to have more RPM rows for more precise fuel/timing control.

 

When you set it to BASE timing 5* (or whatever Evoscan has it named as) it also locks the IAC in its center position. What sucks is that when you use evoscan to activate this, you can't log RPM

Ideally, you want to activate the 5* base timing feature, then set your idle with the BISS to whatever your desired idle is in your idle maps. Now the IAC has equal range of motion in both directions, above AND below your target idle. Does anyone know how to make the ECU get into the 5* base timing mode manually, rather than with Evoscan? Its usually done by grounding a test plug in the engine compartment or a pin near the fuse box inside the car. I'd love to know how to do that so I can adjust the base idle in my Mirage since the Tach is worthless in this thing