Okay, thats good. How long is your pill? After you tell me the length, I can tell if you #60 hole is to big, therefore not making the boost you want.

Also, you idea to throw on a MBC to ensure its a boost control problems is good. If you can do it quickly, then I would try it.

Also, like I said/asked in my previous post, are you tuning off error correction, by 0'ing out the right side of the Error Correction table?

 

Not exactly 5/16. I eyeballed it. Will that affect the pressure drop across it?

d

 

Well, your pill is not your problem, as a 8mm #60 can boost 25+ lbs.

Do you have a MBC handy or would you have to acquire/buy one?

 

I thought I did, but I can't find it. In the absence of a mbc, I did something pretty foolish. I just unplugged the line from the solenoid all together and let it vent to atmosphere.

*boom*

dead engine.






j/k

I put race gas in and have a fairly low load value in the overboost/fuel cut table.

Unfortunately that didn't change anything either. I'm still getting ~20psi. With my altitude here in NM, that's gauge pressure of 22-23 psi. What do folks think? Could I be pushing open the wastegate? Is the dinky, plastic, evo 8 DV opening or leaking from charge pressure?

d

 

Yeah, I can almost put money on that 8 valve being the problem. Mine used to push open at 20 psi religiously until I upgraded to a metal 9 valve. But even that only holds to around ~24psi on my car.


On a side note, I decided to try out the psi-based boost control since as it's getting colder I've been getting some weird wastegate fluttering. My old homemade mbc worked well in the summer, rock solid 24psi for daily driving. Then as it got colder it started shooting up higher to around 28-29 and in the top of 4th and most of the way through 5th the wastegate would start to flutter. Figured a swap back to ecu controlled boost would stop this. I currently have ecu controlled boost set up for 23psi through the whole range and is holding good...up until 5th gear when it oscillates the wastegate again (which is also causing my bov to keep popping open and makes things even worse). Any way of correcting the oscillation? I'm losing all my 5th gear power due to this and it's really starting to **** me off. I still have the stock internal gate setup (12psi I guess it's rated at) with an external dump mod which helps a ton with the initial spike (non-existent now), but no matter what I do it keeps fluttering open.


Also, another retarded question...any ideas as to why my boost error always reads -3.087 in Evoscan no matter what I set
anything to?


*Edit: I've been looking through some of mrfred's posts on ecu controlled boost, and in one of his posts he lists 0x802B for MUT8A, and my rom currently says to set it to 0x8D1B...is this correct or a mix up?

 

It wouldn't even spike higher than 20psi? It's actually 22-23psi of boost, but I'm giving absolute numbers, which is what the map sensor reads. Atmospheric for me is 11-12 psi.

I figured that even with a leaky DV, having the host pulled off the of the boost solenoid would cause a huge spike when boost came on.

I guess this is getting a little off topic. :-p

d

EDIT: Switching from a plastic 8 DV to a metal 9 DV solved this problem

 

Does anyone have the def's for the -20 ign timing for any of the roms? I'm running the "normal" v7 rom/bin and would like to edit/add the -20 timing def. Any help appreciated.

 

I would like to see a condensed set of mods required to get EVOScan to function correctly.

 

Everything in my evoscan works except 2 byte load and airflow. Air flow always reads around 1 and my 2 byte load is reading in the thousands. I am using V2.5 can someone please post the correct data file data or maybe even email me their data file?

pirate@charter.net

 

I don't run ECU boost control guys so I can't help out with any of this, sorry...

 

Yeah, A 8 DV can leak pretty bad. You should grab 9 DV if you can. Also can you do a boost leak test?

You could also make a smaller pill (higher # bit). But you shouldnt have to, as I used a 8mm #60 pill and was able to achieve 25+lbs even at 3500-4000 elev.



I just played with ECU PSI based ECU boost control again this last week. Now Im back on the MBC.

I think your boost error is wrong cuz of what you mentioned in your edit paragraph. Im pretty sure it should be 802A. Just make sure to follow mr fred original psi boost how to exactly.

 

just a silly question... in the WG tables the gear 0 means launch map???

 

0 means neutral.



I changed that MUT8A hex to 0x802B like it's listed in mrfred's post on ecu controlled boost, but instead of the previous number now it logs -2.87 continuously without any variations. I'm going to set it back to standard load based boost and try that (I already know how that operates, and is still the same function as psi based) and see if there's any difference.

 

What correction interval are you using?

 

Im having some trouble setting up my 96533706. I changed everything over from my 96531706 rom and the car will start, stumble, and die. I can't figure out what the problem is, anyone have any ideas?