I haven't changed any of the idle settings from the ROM's default.

Desired Idle RPM - neutral looks like this:
-26 1398
18 1398
45 1398
68 1398
93 1296
122 1203
172 851
180 851


Desired ISCV initial step position with AC off - neutral:
-26 145
18 131
45 122
68 113
93 95
122 68
172 13
180 7

There's a whole catagory "ISCV control" as well with lots of "demand" tables..

 

Coolant temp was high 190's.

 

You should take care of your latrncies and trims first. Then focus on idle...

 

Log kpa also, helps to pin point the VE table to tweak

 

I assume you meant latencies?
I'm still running stock injectors, and like I said, the trims are actually staying very close to 0% at idle. I can grab you a log if you'd like?

The car idled normally with the stock MAP and an according ROM.

I was running the OMNI 4-bar MAP for a day with a ROM that was expecting the OEM MAP, and it idled high and would idle surge, but drove fine. I don't know if that helps at all..

Now I flash to the speed density ROM and it idles very high and will fluctuate every 10-15 seconds or so.

Ok, I'll see if I can add that.

Thanks man. I really appreciate all the help getting me going on all of this. I feel very experienced with ECMLink and very n00b with the evo ECU.

 

For start up try using the following steps for start up idle:
-26 = 125
18 = 90
45 = 85
68 = 83
93= 80
122 = 68
171 = 14
180 = 7


To log kpa with the OMNI 4 bar in evoscan, use the following formula:

 

Alright, attached is a log of me going out and starting my car when it was cold.

With the engine cold, it idles very low RPM and very lean. It will sometimes stall.

Once it warms up, it idles high like I've described (1800-2500 RPMs) and AFR is ok.

I just tried tons of things. I pulled 5% from the SD RPM VE from 1k-3k. Didn't change idle RPM, but it made me very lean (17:1 AFR and higher). Added 5% with similar (opposite) effects.

I tried changing the ISCV steps as you suggested, idle was the same.

I tried the 9653 speed density rom for kicks, idle was the same.

I tried hitting the "set idle screw mode" button to home the ISCV and idle stayed about 2k RPM.

load is mid 20's to low 30's idling at about 2k RPM.

I'm logging the kpa as you suggested.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Tommy

 

You need to play with your BISS. Adjust it till it's right @ 1k rpm or 900.

 

I was wondering about that. You think it's weird that it was fine with the old setup? I'm wondering if there's somehow a boost leak with the new MAP. It'd have to be pretty bad to raise the idle that much, and I can't hear it. I even put RTV on the omni to seal it. But I haven't had the chance to boost leak test it. I was thinking about getting another O ring for it for the hell of it.

So if there's no boost leak, I should be safe clicking the Set Idle button and then turning the BISS until idle is about 1k RPM?

Hey, quick question for you that I think will be really easy to answer for a change. What's the proper way to set boost with these tephra ROMs? I've actually done a lot of reading on the subject, but it's not clear to me. Can you give me a real quick rundown? I currently have the stock BCS installed. I have a GM 3-port waiting to go on.
How much boost is the stock BCS good for?
What's the proper table to set boost? Just the "boost desired engine 'PSI'"? There's also a "boost desired engine 'load'" and "main map wastegate duty" (which is all zero'd out). I don't care about getting fancy for now - I just want to set the boost to one value all the time.

Thanks again!!

Tommy

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/8018340-post8.html

^ This is regarding your Omni and the potential leak you probably have there.

Regarding boost tuning. Just follow the guidelines, I never messed with the stock system only the GM unit.
Do one thing at a time. Tuning the boost can be easy or your worst nightmare. Once you figure it out you'll feel like Neo in the matrix.

Start at 50% WGDC and 0 out correction to see where that puts you. Keep an eye on the boost gauge for overboost. Log WGDC and error correction. Most people on the stock turbo will end up with 100% wastegate till like 3500-4k then smooth it down and bring it back up towards the upper rpms.

Do one thing at a time. Get the SD situated then move on. You don't want to be having issues and can't remember what you tried last or did.

 

Ah, I see. Yeah it didn't seem as tight as the stock one so I put a little RTV on the o-ring. Hmm. I'll check that out ASAP.

Yeah, I definitely agree. But just so I know.. which tables should I be working with? I haven't found any decent threads specific to the Tephra ROMs, and the tables seem different than the other threads that have good information in them.

Should I be working with the boost desired PSI table, or the main map wastegate duty map which is currently zero'd? I would expect not the latter since it came all zero'd. Do I just change the numbers in the boost desired table? So I could change all of the numbers from 12 to 18 to theoretically change my boost to 18PSI? Somehow I imagine it's more complicated than that..

Thanks! I'll get back to you on the boost leak test and BISS ASAP.

 

I need you to read up on how to tune psi based control(look up nj166) how to tune thread in ecuflash. He covers tuning boost. The V7 just has a few additional boost tables that are failsafes and safety blankets.

 

I happened across an old thread of yours yesterday by total chance and learned a lot about ECU boost control. So thank you. :-)

I'm sitting out in my car. I did a boost leak test - no leaks. The OMNI is sealed up well.
I hit the set idle screw button and watched the tach for a while. It continued fluctuating from 1800 RPM to 2300 RPM every 10-15 seconds. How? I have no idea.
I tightened up the BISS 1 full turn at which point it was bottomed out. Idle then fluctuated from 1500-2000 RPM roughly.

So I don't think it's a boost leak or BISS position. I put the BISS back where it was. I am still working on it. I'm going to try a bunch of different ROMs. I'll go back to stock ROM and stock MAP for my own sanity to make sure the car idles normally then, if I need to. Just wanted to give update..

 

Good stuff

 

Alright, is there anything I could have done to mess up the front o2 reading? It seems like the front o2 sensor is dead. However in the log that I uploaded before, it seemed to be working ok. I've noticed today that I got voltage out of it a couple of times, but for the most part it seems pretty dead.
Is there a way to test the sensor itself?

My LTFT mid has been stuck at -8%. I've reflahed a half-dozen times and it won't reset. I dunno what the deal is with that.

Right now I have the stock MAP in, tephra 94170715. It starts up, idles at 1k RPM for a bit (30 seconds?), but then starts idling high. Wideband shows high 17's:1 or even off the scale lean, and I believe it based on exhaust sound (pops).

No CEL for the o2 sensor. I have a hard time believing it went bad just as I was trying to flip to SD.

I'm so confused.