Hey Guys,

Just installed my MAP 2.3 Stroker which consists of the following,

Eagle Forged 100mm crank
Manley Turbo Tuff I Beam Rods
Weisco Pistons
Balance Shaft delete

And all the rest of the goods,

Anyway first start yesterday and i noticed that even when the motor is free revving it was spiking knock counts up to 20+

I have made the knock sensor tables less sensitive to get around it while im running it in for the next 1000kms, but is this normal?

Ive got the car running in on my 2.0ltr timing maps which are pretty weak anyway, its below.

 

stroker normally run lesstiming than a 2litre, but because you've changed the internals the stock frequencies wont be any good so you'll have to do some messing with the knock tables to get it right, I recommned making a set of det cans

 

is it possible that the sensor went bad? just a thought before you go putting wild numbers in your knock tables.

 

I can go bad if you overtorque the sensor.

 

Yeh i read that if its over torqued it can read differently.

As you can see the timing map is pretty weak so i thought it would be ok for a 2.3ltr its actually similar numbers to another members timing map too i noticed with his 2.3ltr

I dont need to make det-cans ive got some at the shop just havent had time to listen to it yet

 

Im picking up stupid knock counts free revving the engine with no load.

could it be because i dont have a balance shaft now and the extra vibrations?

What is the normal for people changing the knock tolerances with these builds? Just to get an idea

 

While we're on the subject of knock during free-revving;

Does knock during free-revs automatically = false knock?

 

Built motors with no balance shafts tend to be pretty noisy, I know mine is at least. I just upped the values in the knock tables once I confirmed that it wasn't real knock.

 

Yeh thats what im going to do,

I just wanted to know roughly how much people are bumping the knock sensitivity for a built motor, i mean realistically would bumping the tables up 2 points be enough to show 0 knock if its not really knocking?

 

bump for this. can someone post some modded knock tables for a little reference?

 

a good way to get rid of the bad knock sensor theory is to throw some race gas in there, if the knock is still there then the sensor could be bad.

 

bad knock sensor throws CEL and reports a fault.

That timing map is very conservative. Try adding more timing?

whats your AFR's?

Also use det cans to verify the knock/det.

 

Im going to the work shop tomorrow night,

im gong to grab the Knock Box and verify with them,

The main reason for this topic was to see how much people where changing there knock filters for built motors.

Just interested to see, that timing MAP was my conservative tune on stock turbo when the car was a 2.0ltr

 

I upped my low/ mid/high knock multipliers up in 5% intervals until the ECU was happy. I don't think I had to go higher than 20% on any of them. I got it from the JCbanks knock thread, it is a must read before touching the knock control system.

Manley 2.0l crank, pistons, rods, no balance shafts...