Buschur Racing's first 2.4 L engine build, results inside.
Jan 7, 2010, 04:55 PM
#20
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(non sarcastic remark)I should explain more i guess when i talk, just know when i ordered new rods they were the same for the 63 and the 64 so by saying different crank the stroke would have to be different, if that makes more sense?
Jan 7, 2010, 05:45 PM
#22
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i had a 6262 on my 2.4 srt. 7500 wasnt cuttin it.. 8k was much better. but w/ the Rod angle ratio the way it is, 8k is pushing it kinda...
strokers are good for these stock-frame style turbos. for these 70+ lb/min turbos id stick to a long rod 2.2 or 2.0 setup and take advantage of the power up top...
just my 2c coming from a background similar to this block/rev limit.
Jan 7, 2010, 06:52 PM
#23
This build should be good for 9,000 rpm with the billet crank and parts chosen.
At this power level on our dyno the car will run 10.80-10.90's with a good driver and traction.
As I mentioned, I wasn't having the best of luck with the fuel. I did, I'd guess, 12 dyno runs in 3rd gear and then did one in 4th. The knock got worse as I guessed it would. I dumped some old race gas we had just to see if it would help at al and pulled one more time in 4th, knock counts dropped to nothing and this is the resulting sheet. I didn't pull it past 7500 because with the timing curve that was in it, the power was starting to fall.
Next week, Monday, we are going to drain both sides of the tank completely and then put some good fresh fuel in it from Shell here and throw it back on the dyno.
I'd really like to see what the car makes at 30 psi if I can get it there. Honestly, I don't think it's going to make it to 30 psi but we will see.
There are many reasons a car can't run high boost on pump gas and this car has some parts on it I don't normally use in our builds. Right now 25 psi was pushing it. Even at 25 psi if I can get the timing into a curve I like the power will climb and I am guessing substantially based on how low the timing is now.
BTW, there will be no reason for a build at this power level to go to the 9,000 rpm that it is expected to hold up to. I will rev it higher if the need arrises when it is tuned again.
At this power level on our dyno the car will run 10.80-10.90's with a good driver and traction.
As I mentioned, I wasn't having the best of luck with the fuel. I did, I'd guess, 12 dyno runs in 3rd gear and then did one in 4th. The knock got worse as I guessed it would. I dumped some old race gas we had just to see if it would help at al and pulled one more time in 4th, knock counts dropped to nothing and this is the resulting sheet. I didn't pull it past 7500 because with the timing curve that was in it, the power was starting to fall.
Next week, Monday, we are going to drain both sides of the tank completely and then put some good fresh fuel in it from Shell here and throw it back on the dyno.
I'd really like to see what the car makes at 30 psi if I can get it there. Honestly, I don't think it's going to make it to 30 psi but we will see.
There are many reasons a car can't run high boost on pump gas and this car has some parts on it I don't normally use in our builds. Right now 25 psi was pushing it. Even at 25 psi if I can get the timing into a curve I like the power will climb and I am guessing substantially based on how low the timing is now.
BTW, there will be no reason for a build at this power level to go to the 9,000 rpm that it is expected to hold up to. I will rev it higher if the need arrises when it is tuned again.
Jan 7, 2010, 07:18 PM
#27
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Good stuff.I never understood why people are so obssesed with how high a stroker revs if its making peak power at xxxx rpm why should you rev way past it.You always want to keep your motor pulling towards peak power going down the track.for sure you dont want it where power is on the decline.
