i think ImportRace will get it on footage. Im gonna do some slight tweaks in the tune to get faster spool and a quicker torque spike and make it hold and see what we can do at 33-34psi and call it a done deal.

 

take it to cecil yet?

 

not yet. waiting on a few things. this was just a break in tune. wont be visiting track with this tune.

 

Hey Tscompusa, what 20w50 oil did you use for break in?
i'm going to be breaking mine in very soon, i was just going to use generic mineral 15w40, then goto Motul 300V 15w50 once there is enough mileage on it.

With all these turbo and oil threads up, did you use a high ZDDP oil? Brad Penn perhaps?

Cheers, mike

 

I'm glad you asked that man. Do not run generic oil it will kill the turbo in 20 miles. The thrust bearings will burn up because they are steel on steel. The additives in the oil is what helps the oil stick to the steel so you will not burn anything up with oil with lots of "metal" (only FP black or Red) ( Autozone 20w50 and Advanced auto 20w50 will kill it this fast)

I recommend using Valvoline VR1 20w50 non synthetic (Part No. VV211) for break in until at least 1500 miles to assure your rings are fully seated. From experience I can say my last motor did not seal for **** due to improper break in.

Also make sure the tune is not to rich or it will wash the cylinders and jeopardize ring seal. Do not let the car get to operating temperature then shut it down, thats the worst thing you can do to a brand new motor. So if you fire it up and see a leak quickly shut it down, dont let it get to operating temp.

I did the first oil change in 15 miles, then 30 miles, then 60 miles. you dont gotta do it like this, i recommend:

20
50
100
500
1000
1500

=========================

After break in I run Amsoil 20w50 premium with high zinc and I also have a few cases of Brad Penn 20w50 also. I recommend Brad penn if running E85 since you should change it every 1000-1500 since it dilutes the oil. If running pump then you can run Amsoil and get away with changing every 3k-5k+ on OEM filter or equiv.

Everyone has their own opinions, but I did a good amount of research and feel confident in what im doing. My car doesnt get driven long trips, mostly a car to bang on when taken out, so I change oils sometimes as early as 800 miles without realizing it.

Brad Penn will break down faster then the Amsoil 20w50 (ARO) because it is a racing oil. For long duration oil changes I cant recommend Brad Penn. You can google blackstone reports on brad penn, its damn good oil and hard to beat for its price.

If you have anymore questions let me know. Also buy extra filters for the turbo oil feedline cause it will need changed alot as the motor breaks in.

 

Great info Tom...

 

excellent numbers and good info.

 

cheers for the advice.
I'll have to take the oil back i already bought, no drama's.
My FP oil line (i have FP Red btw) doesn't have the cloth filter, just the wire cone which i will clean out, along with the mivec oil feed filter.
the tune i'll start it up on is the 2.0 non mivec tune. But that will just be for leak checking. 30seconds to 1min. Then i'll put it on the trailer, and straight off to the dyno.
My break in session wont be as "hard" as yours, but it will still get a hammering.

Another "trick" is if the pistons are brand new, only do your initial break in for 10min then shut it down, allowing it to completely cool. This is for the thermal expansion memory of the pistons. If you tune too hard, or drive too hard for too long, they can over expand and stay that way.
So this will be done, and i'll change the oil after that.
Also no oil cooler will be used for the run in period, for safetys sake.

Cheers, Mike

 

Thanks Freddie

Thanks

Have a look at this guys dyno break in tips also if you haven't already. I just saved you a turbo headache

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

yeah i've read most of it a long time ago, we'll give it a go

Also i just thought of it, i'll keep the "used" oil and put it in my run-around car, doesn't matter if it's dirty seems bad to chuck out all that oil!

 

Congrats. Have fun.

 

Great work! car really turned out great from where you started. Really impressed with the power

 

Those oil changes are way beyond over kill. We generally recommend at least 1,000 miles before the first oil change, anything less is kind of nuts, that is if it's being driven and not just raced. My RS, the 2.1 that just came out of it never had an oil change. I pulled the engine to try this new long rod 2 liter I built, I'd say it only had 500 miles on it but probably 100 dyno pulls and 25 or so drag passes. The engine was flawless inside, of course it should be with those circumstances. Just remember, the car can't make less than 600 whp at any boost level it ever saw, so it's pushed hard.

I kind of hate to admit this but..........I've got an '08 Mustang, 4.6 and it's supercharged, it has the original oil in it still. The car is kept in a garage that is a fairly constant tempurature. I pull the dipstick and the oil is so clean I can't bring myself to change it. The car has 1500 miles on it. I'm sure there is some engineering paper that says after 6 months the oil is no good but again, real world I don't see it, so the oil is staying in the car until it's actually been used long enough to change.

Yes, I am a back woods ***** sucka. ahaha

 

sick power

 

Dave, have you ever checked the oil out of a freshly broken in engine?
Have you seen the metallic shimmer on the surface from the machining processes? (honing etc).

Thats why some people swap it out quickly, and dont run an oil cooler on break in.