Nickel antiseize works really well for me. Cost $$$ but it's much higher temp than the usual stuff.

06MREvo, how is the response of your BBK-B compared to a Red, if you've been in a Red car before?

 

Funny you mention that...haha...I actually did have an FP Red, 84mm, on my car for about 4k miles and the compressor wheel started digging into the compressor housing. Not covered under warranty so I paid to have it rebuilt and sold it. I had a very basic tune on the car from Spec-Ops @ only 25 psi on 93 oct. Car felt pretty, obviously stronger then my stock turbo. I was running a ported stock manifold on the FP Red and I still felt it was a little laggy. The BBK-B setup is using a Toxicfab 1.5" runner manifold but everything else is pretty much the same. I have been slowly tuning the car myself and with my limited tuning skills (haha) my BBK-B setup already feels better then my FP Red setup. I put a pretty aggressive Mivec map in so it definitely doesn't feel as laggy as my FP Red. I have it pretty rich on spool up too, just to be safe. Petey @ KHC will be finalizing the tune this weekend so well see how the car feels after that...

 

any 1 know where i can get a stock td05hr 10.5t shaft to buy?

 

Good luck BJ ...

 

Bout time you started to tweak your own. Lol.

 

I just got back from a small shakedown drive. The turbo sounds much different than the oem turbos--higher pitched whistling, it's really cool sounding.

When I compared the two turbos, you could see how much material CBRD bored out of the hotside--the hole where the turbine goes through is enlargened. They even bored the hotside divider to fit in larger blades. Here are some comparison pics. Notice how the old (rusted looking) hotside has an extra bevel that doesn't appear to exist on the new one. It's roughly 2mm thick. Also notice how much thinner the "trumpet" looking cylinder in the middle is on the new one.

(old hotside)


(new hotside)


Here are some install pics and a story behind why it took so long to get back to you guys on this. This is the last pic with the evo9 turbo on.


Draining coolant took about 1hr out of this tiny nozzle.


BBK Full anxiously awaits transplant. I found it odd that the blade spins with more resistance than the evo9 turbo.


Evo9 turbo, freshly gutted out, bleeding green.


A look inside the engine head at the valves.


Fresh hardware replaces old rusty ones.


My new hotside didn't come with studs so I unbolted them from the old one. They came out stripped--a day was lost trying to source these locally. Luckily Advance Auto has them on the shelves! (made by Dorman, part #03400). These studs were re-used from my old evo8 turbo when I put the 9 turbo in. Guess they didn't last too long.


Test fitting new studs on the brand new hotside. New hardware is so nice! You didn't even have to use an impact wrench to put these studs in. They just slipped right in by hand.


However, I ended up not using studs anymore and converted to bolts. The set came with several studs, bolts, and nuts, for only $6 (much better than $7-8 per stud at the dealer). They're shorter, but they screw in just as far as the studs do when bolted up. It actually worked to my advantage cuz one side of the o2 housing has a tighter area to work with.


Here's the tight area that only the shorter bolt could fit through.


Looking down my lower intercooler pipe, I have black residue all over it. Am I pushing enough pressure to require a catch can now? I hope my intercooler isn't plastered with this black substance...or my intake manifold.


BBK Full transplanted in.




Then I started bolting up the downpipe, lubed with copper antiseize. My heart sank when the giant bolt got tougher and tougher to wrench in. I immediately backed out and looked at the threads. They still were ok, but after years of unbolting the downpipe, some threads were pretty chaffed up. I switched bolts and sure enough, same thing. F***. Is the o2 housing stripped too? I lost another day as I took apart the entire manifold/turbo area again so I could examine the o2 housing. Fortunately the turbo coldside didn't have to come out this time around.


This was as far in as one of the bolts would go. It just abruptly came to a halt here, with plenty more thread left.


I couldn't really tell how bad things were since there was copper antiseize on it. It looked fine by eye, but apparently not, since the bolts didn't freely go in. It was late, and frantic thoughts of picking up another o2 housing crossed my mind, at local TTP Engineering, or what not. But I couldn't muster throwing away the nice ceramic Swaintech coating on my damaged 02 housing though.


I went back to Advance Auto Parts, who couldn't find a replacement downpipe bolt. They recommended a local warehouse called Webb Bolt & Nut, about 10min away from my home. I went there the next day and it was like nut and bolt heaven--hundreds of thousands of different kinds of hardware, aisles with shelves stacked two stories high. I came out with 2 downpipe bolts and a few wastegate hitch pins, all free. Seems like Webb Bolt & Nut deal with a lot of bulk orders and it's too much of a hassle to ring up a few pieces


I tried test fitting the new bolts into the o2 housing. Sure enough, it didn't fully fit. Ughh, this job is starting to become more expensive than planned. I then read up online how to repair these issues. The internet recommended several solutions, but I settled with a tap and die set, since the threads didn't appear trashed. I ran over to Harbor Freight with a 20% off coupon and picked up a large titanium-coated set for 50 something bucks. When I got home, I realized I had the SAE kind. I'm losing patience now and it shows. I run back to Harbor Freight and swapped to the metric version.


These tools cut through like butter. I wish I had this set a long time ago. I've run into many stripped threads before. This set is a keeper. This bolt finally threaded through by hand with no effort!


The last time I swapped turbos, it only took 2 days. I kid you not, this turbo took 5 days to install. I ran into so many problems by not having the right tools and not anticipating replacing parts well enough--quite a learning experience. Anyways, It's all bolted up now. I tripled checked every torque spec and connection, and also used high temp copper anti-seize on every bolt and nut. Then I ran a boost leak test, which my throttle body leak sounds like it's getting worse from 6 months ago. I'm going to order some soon. Which brand of seals do you recommend (ie: Works, MilSpec, AMS, etc.)? Oh..I also broke one of my polyurethane exhaust hangers while taking off my downpipe Those things are hard, but are brittle too.

I'll be retuning this weekend if everything is fine. Stay tuned...

 

Best turbo install writeup + pics ever. Subscribed! Keep up the good work. Hope to see you keep updating this thread especially with the results of the BBK Full.

I too have a BBK Full. I couldn't wait for the BBK-B. Not sure if its worth my time/money to convert to BBK-B. lol.

 

 

thanks for posting info!

cb

 

Thanks Jason!

haha right! I got to have a little fun last night on the highway with an R35...It's good to know my conservative tune @ only 24psi is good enough to let the R35 have a 2 car jump on me at an 80 roll and I reeled him in hard and was passing him by the top of 5th (6 spd)...bye bye skyline...

 

I went from a BBK Full to a BBK-B on stock block and love it so far...

 

Thoe99...Install pics look great!! Don't forget to prime the turbo before starting the car!! Also what oil will you be using with this the Full? Also, will you be tuning the car or someone else...93 oct.?

 

Nice clean final installed pics.

In for results.

 

I primed it, using CBRD's suggestion of disconnecting the crank sensor, cranking 3 times for 15 seconds each. I had to hook up a battery charger to it in between since I have a mini battery, lol. I haven't decided on what good oil to use for it yet, so I defaulted to Mobile1. What do you guys recommend? I'll be tuning the car myself on 93 octane, using the same standards I used on the previous turbo (same tank of gas too). I'm going through great lengths to keep the variables as constant as possible for a fair comparison.

 

I am using Amsoil AMO 10w-40...CBRD recommends that for the BBK-B so it wouldn't hurt it to use the same in a BBK Full...There is a thread around here somewhere that Amsoil just came out with an even better oil, especially for higher hp daily driven cars...Ill try and find the thread...