MAP EF4 e85 built 2L tuned by tscompusa/vr-speed
what i don't get is I put a known 24psi wastegate on, preloaded it, and it only showed 17psi, the length of the wastegate arm seems to have to be longer for the ef4 than standard e9 framed turbo. made 0 difference to spoolup, what else can cause this besides boost leak? checked cat wasn't clogged. Does the ef4 have more backpressure than other stock frame turbos, forcing gates open? Have to add though, adam @ map has been more than helpful in regards to my issue, I'm sure we'll get it sorted out! Just wanted a few tips from anyone else if they had this problem and how it was fixed thats all.
Came off a bbk full, not a stock bbk actuator thought its marketed as a 1.7 bar, bought it from
Kando/kinugawa. had to extend it for this turbo as
When I first put it on the arm wouldn't even extend enough. It held 25psi straight off the gate with bbk.
Kando/kinugawa. had to extend it for this turbo as
When I first put it on the arm wouldn't even extend enough. It held 25psi straight off the gate with bbk.
Well if you had to extend it that alone is your problem. Your taking the preload off it that it had when using it on a BBK full. We use different compressor housings as we have anti-surge inlets. So the actuator is not going to be the same for every turbo.
Plus it is very possible if you extended it to far the wastegate flapper wasn't 100% closed when you fired up the car. Causing it to spool even worse!
When you get the new actuator from us, start off by holding the flapper shut completely. Then make the actuator just fit with all the holes lined up. Then take it back off and crank it down about 4 full turns. This should give you a little preload to start off with, and run it without any sort of boost control source, just run a straight vacuum/boost line. Document the boost at this level and report back!
Plus it is very possible if you extended it to far the wastegate flapper wasn't 100% closed when you fired up the car. Causing it to spool even worse!
When you get the new actuator from us, start off by holding the flapper shut completely. Then make the actuator just fit with all the holes lined up. Then take it back off and crank it down about 4 full turns. This should give you a little preload to start off with, and run it without any sort of boost control source, just run a straight vacuum/boost line. Document the boost at this level and report back!
I know how to preload a turbo. When I say extended It was extended to fall 3/4 of a hole short of the closed gate. It wouldn't mak any difference on the spring the preload is determined by the length between the closed gate and the eyelet, shouldn't matter how long the arm
Is the spring is still compressed and the gate is still being pulled on. I even tried preloading the first wastegate to 19psi but it didn't make a difference. I've ran out of options now so just crossing fingers actuator fixes it.
Is the spring is still compressed and the gate is still being pulled on. I even tried preloading the first wastegate to 19psi but it didn't make a difference. I've ran out of options now so just crossing fingers actuator fixes it.
I know how to preload a turbo. When I say extended It was extended to fall 3/4 of a hole short of the closed gate. It wouldn't mak any difference on the spring the preload is determined by the length between the closed gate and the eyelet, shouldn't matter how long the arm
Is the spring is still compressed and the gate is still being pulled on. I even tried preloading the first wastegate to 19psi but it didn't make a difference. I've ran out of options now so just crossing fingers actuator fixes it.
Is the spring is still compressed and the gate is still being pulled on. I even tried preloading the first wastegate to 19psi but it didn't make a difference. I've ran out of options now so just crossing fingers actuator fixes it.
I know how to preload a turbo. When I say extended It was extended to fall 3/4 of a hole short of the closed gate. It wouldn't mak any difference on the spring the preload is determined by the length between the closed gate and the eyelet, shouldn't matter how long the arm
Is the spring is still compressed and the gate is still being pulled on. I even tried preloading the first wastegate to 19psi but it didn't make a difference. I've ran out of options now so just crossing fingers actuator fixes it.
Is the spring is still compressed and the gate is still being pulled on. I even tried preloading the first wastegate to 19psi but it didn't make a difference. I've ran out of options now so just crossing fingers actuator fixes it.
OK. I have read every post in this thread. I will not entertain any of the trash talking. I am more concerned about whether the OP just has some minor porting work done to the head or a full Stage 3 or Stage 5...? Thanks.
now my guess would be there is nothing wrong at all. this turbo is just a laggy beast. here is a recent graph posted of the turbo in 3rd and 4th gears. look how laggy third gear boost curve is. this is a perfect example of why this turbo is a turd. the car is well setup/tuned car that makes fantastic power in forth. but there is something wrong with the turbo combination to look that bad in 3rd gear.


42psi by 3600rpm's in 4th gear pull starting at 2200rpm's doesn't really seem like that would be this turbo in the category of a turd.
The person's graph that you posted is completely happy with the turbo and comments on how fast it spools all the time.
It seems as if you have no support for stock frame turbo's going by your posts on the forum.







