I am not sure one way or another, my friend. Could the difference be from the fact that I have a 2.4LR and you have a 2.4L? Maybe the rod/piston stroke differences are the reason why there is a difference in what I am seeing at vacuum from yourself.

 

How much are you getting? Could be a number of things but easiest place to start would be a boost leak check. After that, tune (timing at idle), cam timing (teeth off etc), the list goes on. Your tuner should be able to assist...

 

I am monitoring -15 at idle. It does not bother me whatsoever and the only reason I am even addressing this is because it was brought up. I have already done a boost leak test up to 30 PSI without any leaks at all. Tom has already done the tuning as I am sure he would have said something if there was an issue prior to the E85 tune. The only thing I am not 100% sure of is the timing degree of the cams but Archie (owner of PSI) is a DSM/EVO fanatic so I am sure that they were dialed in properly.

 

-15 at idle is actually pretty good for S2s. I was referring to the comment from the other 2.4 owner with the S2s. I am sure your setup is well dialed in.

 

 

Did he degree the cams when the motor was out of the car? Or did he have one of those really expensive dial in indicators to do it? I really have a hard time with degreeing a cam that is made for a drop in application.

 

Nice projecto pure evo!!! Congrats!

 

Brian, I have absolutely no idea, my friend. I dropped the car off and picked him up once he was finished.

Thanks, my friend.

 

Its cool Lavar, I was just wondering why he would degree a drop in cam thats all. I mean I am sure it would help some, but I can't see much more room for gains by doing it.

 

We are cool, my friend. I only thought about this since the topic of idle was on the table.

 

You want to degree cams if possible on a 4g64 block/63 head motor. The cams don't line up properly.

 

Your gonna be more interested in making the timing correct. Thats more important in a 2.4 then centering the cams centerline.

 

I did find my problem. I was motivated by your results to check out my setup. The cams were not timed properly. Thanks for the benchmark to go by and now I am doing much better.

 

I will have to get things looked at. I am pretty confident that things are good to go on this end. I was thinking (scary) that it would be easier just to use a Galant VR4 timing belt from now on. What are your thoughts?

That is fantastic, my friend.

 

I have finally had the time to go through the remaining parts that I did not use for the build. It is funny when you get the "I had no idea I had that part" look on the face. The things that I am nearly 100% sure that I am going to sell are:

1. stock VIII turbo
2. Pro Sport EVO wideband sensor
3. Amsoil filter (4" inlet)
4. BNIB AMS braided fuel line
5. BNIB air temperature sensor
6. 30 PSI boost leak tester (4" inlet)
7. red breather filter
8. Vibrant Performance weld bung
9. idle pulley

I get confused at the following parts as I do not want to sell something that could benefit me down the road. Here they are:

1. BNIB AFPR hose kit
2. BNIB Fuel Lab EFI regulator
3. BNIB Gly-filled pressure gauge, 40mm
4. BNIB Forced Performance .030 4AN filter
5. BNIB Grim Speed MBC

My main concern are the fuel parts. I do not remember why I bought the Fuel Lab EFI regulator and I am thinking about having it installed. Would that complicate my present fuel set up? For the 4AN filter, does the one I presently have need to be replaced over the course of time or do I just clean it? As for the Grim Speed MBC, I thought I was going to do the hybrid boost control set up from Tom but I am very pleased with how the car reacts without it.