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awesome...i have my FP Black sitting here next to me...but before i install it, i want to wait to get my cams, head studs, fmic, and a few other things so i can do it all at once
Actually, the ceramic friction is very easy on the pp and flywheel, and does prefer a fresh surface. That's not a sintered metal race clutch.
easy on the fly and pressure plate? you are way off.
Sintered steel is a type of metal that has undergone a sintering process, in which powdered metal is heated below its melting point until the particles form a molecular bond. Metals such as iron, copper, and aluminum are commonly turned into sintered steel.
ceramic material is made by sintering particles together. cerametallic is the long version. cera is the glass portion and the other metal. so you indeed are using a sintered race clutch disc.
Ceramic Clutches – Exedy Racing and Sports Clutches
Ceramic clutches can absorb more heat than organic ones, thus making them better suited to high performance applications. You will find that the price of a ceramic clutch is reflected in fact that they specifically for high performance driving.
Ceramic clutches will wear much faster if you ride the clutch, and can experience some shudder or chatter on engagement.
Keeping in mind also, that a ceramic clutch is quite savage on both its meeting components, the flywheel & pressure plate.
I am quite sure I have immense amount of clutch knowledge from personally using every type of clutch friction material available. I post to give helpful advise to help those reading. not trying to educate know it alls.
easy on the fly and pressure plate? you are way off.
ceramic material is made by sintering particles together. cerametallic is the long version. cera is the glass portion and the other metal. so you indeed are using a sintered race clutch disc.
I am quite sure I have immense amount of clutch knowledge from personally using every type of clutch friction material available. I post to give helpful advise to help those reading. not trying to educate know it alls.
No, I'm not. When I pulled the ceramic clutch out of my car, the fly and pp were perfectly smooth and only lightly worn, all be it hot spotted from abuse. There was very little wear except for the worn out disc. Machine shop only had to take .005" off the flywheel to freshen it up.
"Sintered" cerametallic is much different from a straight sintered metal friction. If you have ever driven a straight sintered metal clutch, you would know the difference.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Jul 13, 2015 at 10:47 AM.
Sorry I realized making this post was useless I posted my dyno run. I just didn't want to hear all the loud mouth in my area saying how I should have made more or etc. I ended up making 550whp/420tq @ 34psi, I did a really conservative tune given that it was 105F that night that we tuned. Also I was blowing spark due to a bad COP set from spoolin up, but they totally did me right and got me a fresh pair. The car is doing 20 times better now that I changed them and I can't wait to do another dyno run to clean up the top end. I do however wish I went with a bigger turbo, but I'm still really happy with the amount of power I made and if I make around 600-650 I'll probably just chill in that power range. If any of you guys have any question I'd be more than happy to tell you. I'm no expect by any means, but i can guide you in the right direction.
Sorry I realized making this post was useless I posted my dyno run. I just didn't want to hear all the loud mouth in my area saying how I should have made more or etc. I ended up making 550whp/420tq @ 34psi, I did a really conservative tune given that it was 105F that night that we tuned. Also I was blowing spark due to a bad COP set from spoolin up, but they totally did me right and got me a fresh pair. The car is doing 20 times better now that I changed them and I can't wait to do another dyno run to clean up the top end. I do however wish I went with a bigger turbo, but I'm still really happy with the amount of power I made and if I make around 600-650 I'll probably just chill in that power range. If any of you guys have any question I'd be more than happy to tell you. I'm no expect by any means, but i can guide you in the right direction.
is that with the new bottom end? Those are solid numbers. Definitely room to turn it up whenever you want to.
I finally got retuned and OMG the drivability is amazing, I'm not just talking about gunning it down the street. Normal driving is nice and smooth. I would recommend everyone to come to this if they want to make good and safe power gains. Devin really put in the extra effort to help me find a bunch of issues I had no idea I had going on. After we finished tuning I made 597hp / 545tq @ 37 psi (Devin @ All Access Tuning) Right next to virtual works does amazing fab work. https://www.facebook.com/allaccesstuning?fref=ts https://www.facebook.com/VirtualWorksRacing?fref=ts
Last edited by hiroki702; Aug 21, 2015 at 12:45 PM.
Do you mind putting your original dyno graph back up? It works as a good comparison for others even if you are not happy with what the results were or whatever happened that caused you to completely erase what was there 3.5 months later
I took the old dyno sheet off because I didn't want to put the 1st person that screwed up my tune on blast that's all. I didn't realize that power started to drop off at 6,800 rpm, which is where I was having spark blow out. I thought it was my COP's, but it turned out to be a whole set of issues. Devin at all access tuning helped me figure out all these bugs that I had going wrong with my evo and got the car where it need to be. The old dyno sheet said 538hp with massive boost leaks dude to not having neural fittings, but when we did a base pull it said around 350hp so long story short it went from 350hp to 597hp / 545tq
so long story short it went from 350hp to 597hp / 545tq
