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The most decisive factor is the overall result you get from using a specific type of oil on a specific setup. In order to do that, you need to do some experimenting on a specific type of oil, i.e 20w50 fully synthetic of different brands. There is no actual standard decisive recipe on this, apart from the way an engine is built in relation to its clearances, parts/alloys/materials used, and of course to the intended usage of that engine/setup, factors which will point you to a certain oil type category.
Everything is very relative, a 1000whp evo i.e might be ok using fully synthetic 10w40 oil on the street, but when on a time attack track course, that oil will not be enough.
Very interesting facts indeed!! For us common people we could learn a thing or two about oils
I really do not know much about oils, just which is thin, which is thick, operating temperatures etc. I never went further to learn about viscosity and more details and those written earlier blown my mind guys. Nice info.
I did not have a catch can but I will install for various reasons. What is important is that I do not have issues from oil coming out from the valve cover. What I noticed is just a very very thin layer of oil (vaporized or something).
2winscroll, unfortunately I do not have an oil pressure gauge to monitor the pressure at all. I have three gauges but I have to install them so I monitor the idle pressure and WOT pressure. The car today is ready to be sent to the fabricator. The Magnus V5, exhaust manifold and 6466 was installed. Tommorrow the fab will start on all the hot and cold parts
We are all common people, we are all here to learn and we are all still learning. I've hardly posted anything special to be honest, I could elaborate a bit on the interrelation between additives/detergents/ grade and viscosity, and how they affect each other in the properties, but it is irrelevant to this thread and I consider unnecessary at the time being.
Personally,I do not use a catch can on my setup, and even when I did some years back, when the car was at a much lower power, it was there for cosmetic reasons and the fumes.
The only one digging a hole is you lol, sure I will go by what a company says on its marketing internet site. No, I prefer to go by what my own personal experimenting and experience tells me.
I will repeat this, the most decisive factor is the overall RESULT you get from using a specific oil on a specific setup, no result, then its all for the show.
The most decisive factor is the overall result you get from using a specific type of oil on a specific setup. In order to do that, you need to do some experimenting on a specific type of oil, i.e 20w50 fully synthetic of different brands. There is no actual standard decisive recipe on this, apart from the way an engine is built in relation to its clearances, parts/alloys/materials used, and of course to the intended usage of that engine/setup, factors which will point you to a certain oil type category.
Everything is very relative, a 1000whp evo i.e might be ok using fully synthetic 10w40 oil on the street, but when on a time attack track course, that oil will not be enough.
Marios
Thats Hilarious!
10w40 in 1000hp 4g63! Can you say scrap Metal? Lol
FYI there is to much flexing going on in the crankshaft and main webs, to allow tight enough clearance for 10w40 oil with a 4g63 motor at 1000hp.
The only one digging a hole is you lol, sure I will go by what a company says on its marketing internet site. No, I prefer to go by what my own personal experimenting and experience tells me.
I will repeat this, the most decisive factor is the overall RESULT you get from using a specific oil on a specific setup, no result, then its all for the show.
Marios
thats right why bother you already know everything
10w40 in 1000hp 4g63! Can you say scrap Metal? Lol
FYI there is to much flexing going on in the crankshaft and main webs, to allow tight enough clearance for 10w40 oil with a 4g63 motor at 1000hp.
Ok im done with this guy!
The only one who is hilarious is you, and all the crap you keep posting, bollocks there is no where near the flexing at such a degree to touch the limit of distortion on a 1000whp evo, ignorance is indeed the case here lol.
Yeah if you are leaving in Finland and you wish to use your 1000hp evo as a daily with the occasional boost thrash, fully synthetic 10w40 is perfect.
Guys, until now the power was not over 420whp. Also, the rpm limit was set at 7.300 so not big power and not many rpms. Furthermore, the max pressure that the engine worked since it was built was 22psi due to backpressure issues and the wastegate being maxxed
Please, keep it civilised guys. We are here to share our thoughts, experience and help each other. No reason to fight, everyone has his beliefs but we must respect others views.
No one is fighting mate, we are mainly posting our opposing and different beliefs on the matter. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion as I said earlier.
In your case, since you are living in a hot/humid environment most of the year round, for the cylinder pressures your setup will have on the 6466, and stock bearing clearances, I would go with fully synthetic 15w50 all year round, even for those 2 months of very mild winter. Try a few different brands and see what suits the engine and driving style/usage of the car best.
I also live in a hot environment , but my self-built race setup has different than stock clearances, and I run a bigger turbo than a 6466, so I use a fully synthetic 20w50 oil.
Small update. My car is at the fab the moment and we ran on some issues. The most important one was that the manifold was completely off for my setup. The manifold in order to fit, i had to buy a small radiator and also remove the a/c pump. I spoke with the guy that made/sold me the manifold and he was more than helpful to return the manifold back. He gave me the choice of a refund or make a new one in order to fit properly this time. So I have to wait until January and see how it goes.
Nov 21, 2018, 11:03 AM
