Hey guys, it's been a long time seen i updated the thread. I finally got the car 3 weeks ago but i ran to some issues that i need to address before I can unlock the true potential of my build. First of all, a log that we did showed that under WOT the battery voltage was around 12-12.5. The battery is brand new so we checked the alt. The alt needed a rebuild and we changed the regulator. Yesterday I made a new log which showed that the problem was not solved. Tomorrow i will send the car to the electrician to see what is going wrong.

Secondly, regarding the build. Since I only have 1000cc injectors, my tuner set the base fuel pressure to 58psi to have more room. However the pumps seem to hate it, as 58psi and 25psi of boost equate to 83psi. AEM especially which is my main pump seems to open the pressure relief valve at high rpms which results in a lean spot. Therefore I have 2 options. Either set the base fuel pressure to 43.5psi and work from there. It will cure the issue but probably will be out of injector at around 550-570whp. Or order new 450's high pressure and probably raise the fuel pressure around 70psi which will give my injectors a lot more flow (around 1350cc).

Thirdly, as I mentioned in older posts, the car seems to hate boosting. Full boost around 6.200. In my stock 2.0 and 20g build, the car boosted around 5K. In my 2.4 and 20g around 4K, so obviously something is wrong. I will have a look at the mivec map and check the mivec valve as there is a chance to be faulty. Timing of the cams is correct also.

Although all those problems make me furious, I am confident that after they are solved the car will show its potential. At the time, the car was road tuned on a 3month old 93pump gas. 20psi low boost map with 6.800 rev limit and 25psi high boost map and 8.300 rev limit. I will raise the rev limit to 7.5k and 8.5 respectively to broad the powerband a bit more and try to make it spool quicker. The timing is only at 7 degrees at the time but as soon as the problems are solved, we will dyno the car and raise the pressure to around 32psi and more aggressive timing. Hopefully fresh higher octane 95 pump gas will help also. I did not have a chance to make a virtual dyno log at the time, but I feel that the car is around 500-520whp mark at the time

 

Think about a DW400 as an option, it flows more at higher pressures than the Walboro 450 and is more compact too. If you don't have fuel where it is needed, it can cause the symptoms of "not spooling" or being laggy as well. Otherwise make sure there are no obvious boost leaks/throttle body issues/injector seals etc. that are holding you back.

 

Already seen it. It is prob the best in-tank fuel pump in the market. However it costs around 240bucks each. I have a double pumper, therefore will cost me 500bucks. I prefer the 450wally with the high pressure relief valve which is around 200bucks for both.

However, before that, I need to sort the issue with the voltage. After that is fixed, we will see if the fueling issue is fixed also. I will have to make a leak test also but throttle body, and IC pipes are all new

 

Hey guys, a small update. Last week I fixed the voltage issue. As I already mentioned, although that the batt was showing 14.3 volts, during WOT the ECU was reading much lower (around 12.5-12.7). The issue was nothing major, there is a small fuse box next to the bigger under the hood. From this box there are three relays which exit from there and the cable goes to the main fuse box. Although that there are three relays, the three wires eventually merge into one wire only. As I added a second pump, a cop setup, and two sensors, the wire could not keep up with the load. He added three extra wires and solved this issue. Under WOT the voltage showed 14 volts.

Moving on to the next issue that needed to be addressed, we installed two new wallys 450's (high pressure pumps) to solve that lean issue in the higher rpms. While we were there, we also drilled the siphon to 3.5mm as other members suggested, in order to solve some high pressures. The results were suprising, especially from the effects of the siphon. Previously I was seeing 58psi at idle and when the 2nd pump kicked in, the pressure was rising to 87psi. Now, without even adjusting the base fuel pressure, the idle FP dropped to 43.5psi and when the 2nd pump kicks in the pressure climbs up to 80psi. Because i had to cancel evap from the fuel tank, i am having some issues and the hanger is leaking. We temporarily fixed the issue from removing the o-ring from the fuel tank cap to relieve some pressure from the tank.

Moving on to the next issue, I mentioned to the tuner that the car at light throttle (5-10%) the engine was stalling all the time, giving me hard time to drive it. Also, the car randomly lost power and was sounding like subaru (3 cylinders working). I don't know if those two issues are related, but the stalling is coming from a bad sensor which is TPS.

And finally, I found the main issue from all this lag that my car was having since the first day that i bought it. We installed the 6466 and I am seeing full boost (20-25psi) around 6.5K!!!! I told the tuner to check my mivec map because i had a feeling that this was the issue for this. Although that the ECU reads that the mivec goes on, the mivec valve is not working! So, I am waiting for a TPS and a mivec valve to see if the 6466 spins sooner. I am hoping to gain at least 700rpms with this fix.

I will try and make a new log to see where i stand at the moment. Or even make a comparison without and with mivec to see the difference in response. At the moment the high boost map which is 25psi, 93oct pump gas and 7 degrees of ignition, I am feeling the car to be sitting around 550whp

 

My new setup is this:

Engine
2.4LR Block
Carrilo 156mm H-Beam Rods
Wiseco 1400HD 86.5mm Pistons
Manley 100mm Billet Crankshaft
GSC Race Balance Shaft
Fluidampr Crank Pulley
Magnus V5 intake manifold
S90 74mm throttle body
Custom T4 Divided Exhaust manifold
PTE 6466 & 1.15 Divided Turbine Housing
Dual Tial MVS
Custom 3.5'' Downpipe with 3.5'' cutout
HKS Hi-Power Silent Exhaust
Speedfactory 4.5'' intercooler
3'' IC Pipes
Koyo Rad (Evo 6) with Mishimoto fan
ARP 2000 Head Studs
ARP Main Studs
ARP Balancer Bolt

Head
Mild Intake & Exhaust Porting
GSC R2 Cams
GSC spring & Retainer Kit
GSC Zero Tick Lifters
Supertech STD size valves
HKS Cam Pulley
ER Mivec Gear Mod
ARP Cam Tower Bolts
ARP Cam Bolts

Transmission
5speed trans from Evo 6 - Rebuild with Synchrotech carbon synchros
ORC Twin Clutch
4.11 Final Drive

ECU
Link G4+

Fuel
Dual Walbro 450 Fuel Pumps (High Pressure)
-8an feed line
Feed line converted to return line
AMS Fuel Rail
ID 1050x injectors
Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator (with fuel pressure sensor)
93oct

Handling
Tein Flex Z
Project mu 2 piece SCR-Pro front rotors and HC+ pads with teflon brake lines

Wheels
Advan RS 17x8.5 wearing 245/40/17 Michelin Pilot Sport 4.

 

Did you rebuild the alternator yourself? I've got an alternator with a failed regulator here that I might rebuild as a spare.

 

No, my electrician rebuilt it. He ordered the alt regulator and fixed it. It cost me only about 60bucks

 

Hey guys,

I ran to some issues and some advice would be nice. I changed the TPS, calibrated it but still have some stall. I calibrated it at 0.56 at 0% and 4.96% at 100%. Although I was expecting to resolve the issue, the stall is not gone. Next week I will send my car to the mechanic and electrician. I am attaching you 3 logs that I just made. 1gear, 2gear and stall at light throttle.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/01t90twgq23cuqd/1.llg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/v6st9kepmp1ep2y/2.llg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pj2z05zw2qzejaa/3.llg?dl=0

 

Small update. I fixed the issue with the TPS. It was the three wires that were going to the TPS. They were cut and poorly soldered from the previous owner, so I had no idea about that. There are few more issued that need to be addressed. The car is running strong since then. The reason since i bought the car, was that the MIVEC was not working. I bought another solenoid, but eventually the solenoid was fine. The issue is the intake cam sensor, as it does not respond. Today i picked up a new one, and I will try to see if get to work the MIVEC, which I think that will help me spool the 6466 at least 1.000rpms. or I hope so it will help me spool it that much. I ordered ARP625+ head studs for piece of mind, as I had ARP2000. I do not have o-rings but I am on 86.50mm bore. Any advice for the max pressure, before I ran to HG issues? I read that around 35psi max it would be fine

I also bought some other things along the way, such as a 4.5'' IC, swapped the AEM with 450's double pumper etc.... At the moment I am on low boost map at around 23psi and the car is pretty quick. I did not dyno it but it sits around 500-530whp with 93pump gas and only 7 degrees ignition. So I am looking forward fixing the mivec, installing the stronger studs and turning the boost up. My goal is 650whp or even 700whp if the fuel is good enough. The fuel here is better than yours (93) as it allows us to turn the boost 3-5psi more before detonation/knock starts to appear... I think that the 93pump gas here is something like (95US octane) and has some addittives.

 

Hey guys. I finished the project. We dynoed and tuned it with a very good quality pump gas (not e85) and made 750+whp at 45psi. But that didn't last long and as many 4g64 users, we ran into HG issues. 2 days ago, i noticed that the coolant reservoir was full and while the engine was running it was bubbling. So i am 99% sure that the HG is compromised. I have a 86.5mm bore and i am using a 87mm cometic hg. First of all, probably I will switch to an HKS hg and 86.5mm for better seal. Secondly, I will install orings to solve this issue for good. However, I do not know the best figure for o-rings and from what i saw, the block will need an 8figure oring in order to seal properly, as the space between the bores is already thin. Any thoughts on how to proceed?

 

Pump gas and 45psi doesn't sound right unless you have pump fuel that is equivalent to Q16...

As for the oring, just get the head cut for oring grooves and it'll be fine.

 

I know that it does not sound right but many Evo owners here work pump gas fuel at these high pressures. Although we did not monitor the EGT, the car was knock and detonation free. Many 4g63 guys seem to get away with those problems too. The ignition timing at 45 psi was 3 degrees. Probably we will oring the block. As for the figure, is it better to go with 8figure instead of the normal one?

 

Lmao. No one runs 45psi on pump gas. Not even 100 octane like VP street blue.