how many have dynamat in trunk?
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: in a house
First of all, I never argued that the better dampener doesn't have more mass... In fact, in my first post I said that the heavier dampener was better at dampening. What I said was that there were diminishing returns with the heavier dampener. Is a 10-15% increase in performance worth a 66% increase in weight? Not to me.
Now let's assume your arguement is correct:
"Dampening the car would be the equivalent of having a greater proportioned 200lb second passenger."
I for one, wouldn't want 50lbs of mass acting like a 200lb dead weight.
As for the amp issue, The chances of rexpeed ONLY running the 600W amp that he listed is pretty low. Chances that he probably also has at least a 4 channel amp for his separates at around 400W. That alone is is a load of just over 80 amps... the output of the stock alternator is only 90 amps... so factor in the draw of headlights, foglights, engine electrical system blah blah blah, and he doesn't have the output to maintain consistant power.
I had the same problem that he listed above with heat till I upgraded my alternator (also check your ground). Once I had a consistant power source, my stereo sounded cleaner, my amp ran cooler, and none of my lights dimmed when the bass really hit.
But please... disregard anything I've said... I know NOTHING of what I speak, and I NEVER resolved the problem you listed. I also do NOT have a degree in engineering.
Now let's assume your arguement is correct:
"Dampening the car would be the equivalent of having a greater proportioned 200lb second passenger."
I for one, wouldn't want 50lbs of mass acting like a 200lb dead weight.
As for the amp issue, The chances of rexpeed ONLY running the 600W amp that he listed is pretty low. Chances that he probably also has at least a 4 channel amp for his separates at around 400W. That alone is is a load of just over 80 amps... the output of the stock alternator is only 90 amps... so factor in the draw of headlights, foglights, engine electrical system blah blah blah, and he doesn't have the output to maintain consistant power.
I had the same problem that he listed above with heat till I upgraded my alternator (also check your ground). Once I had a consistant power source, my stereo sounded cleaner, my amp ran cooler, and none of my lights dimmed when the bass really hit.
But please... disregard anything I've said... I know NOTHING of what I speak, and I NEVER resolved the problem you listed. I also do NOT have a degree in engineering.
Evolving Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 127
Likes: 0
From: Columbus, Ohio
You'll have to excuse us, we come from the realm of kilowatts and multiple alternators. In extreme situations, the few percentage difference matters. Much like removing your spare before a run on the track.
I bought two rolls of 'peel and seal,' a cheapo Home Depot material for roofing. It's the same concept as most deadeners; Asphalt/Butyl adhesive mat with Aluminum skin. The two rolls together probably didn't weigh more than twenty pounds, and it was plenty enough to deaden my two doors, hatch lid, and hatch walls. That may not be enough to contain a super loud system, but it's enough to run a set of components, a small subwoofer, and diminish outside noises.
In my opinion, in my experience.
Custel's style of deadening is more along the lines of containing pressure inside the cabin. That's what SPL is all about. You could detonate explosives inside his vehicle and the neighbors would sleep right through it.
I don't think this poster needs that kind of deadening.
Since we're talking about dimming down the road-noise, and not about maximizing extreme sound pressure, the difference will be negligible between deadener 1 and deadener 2.
But, for the original poster, the difference between no deadener and a nice deadening adventure will be night and day. The doorskins are flimsy, and deadening them will yeild an improvement in in-cabin quietness, and also the response of your doorspeakers. Also, the doors will feel and sound more solid when you shut them.
To me, those benefits are worth the eight or twelve pounds. (probably even less)
If you can remove the seats, carpet and trim, you can remove the doorcards
The floor of the car is more heavily reinforced (and less of a flat, flimsy piece of sheetmetal) than the doorskins and trunk walls/floor. I think if you want to add only a minimal amount of weight, deaden those areas and skip the floor. Fender wells are a good candidate also.
There's no need to be sarcastic and throw your degree around. My girlfriend has an engineering degree too, but I wouldn't let her design my system.
The amps will rarely if ever pull the whole eighty amps they're rated for, since we're just talking about driving music. I don't think an alternator upgrade is in order, unless the original poster plans to absolutely blast music or test-tones.
(In which case ear-plugs will be a more cost-effective investment than alternators)
Sheesh.
On the topic of mass-loading, there are plenty of ways to reduce a panel's vibration characteristics. You could brace it with a rigid piece of material, for instance. Less weight, more effective damping for low frequency vibration. Mass-loading in this scenario isn't to kill low vibration, it's to prevent 'ringing.' In this instance, mass-loading is more effective than bracing.
Ten pounds of bracing isn't going to do much for your road noise.
Ten pounds of Dynamat isn't going to silence your burping bass trunk.
That should clear up a common misconception.
I think everything here should be pretty agreeable, no?
I bought two rolls of 'peel and seal,' a cheapo Home Depot material for roofing. It's the same concept as most deadeners; Asphalt/Butyl adhesive mat with Aluminum skin. The two rolls together probably didn't weigh more than twenty pounds, and it was plenty enough to deaden my two doors, hatch lid, and hatch walls. That may not be enough to contain a super loud system, but it's enough to run a set of components, a small subwoofer, and diminish outside noises.
In my opinion, in my experience.
Custel's style of deadening is more along the lines of containing pressure inside the cabin. That's what SPL is all about. You could detonate explosives inside his vehicle and the neighbors would sleep right through it.
I don't think this poster needs that kind of deadening.Since we're talking about dimming down the road-noise, and not about maximizing extreme sound pressure, the difference will be negligible between deadener 1 and deadener 2.
But, for the original poster, the difference between no deadener and a nice deadening adventure will be night and day. The doorskins are flimsy, and deadening them will yeild an improvement in in-cabin quietness, and also the response of your doorspeakers. Also, the doors will feel and sound more solid when you shut them.
To me, those benefits are worth the eight or twelve pounds. (probably even less)
If you can remove the seats, carpet and trim, you can remove the doorcards
The floor of the car is more heavily reinforced (and less of a flat, flimsy piece of sheetmetal) than the doorskins and trunk walls/floor. I think if you want to add only a minimal amount of weight, deaden those areas and skip the floor. Fender wells are a good candidate also.
There's no need to be sarcastic and throw your degree around. My girlfriend has an engineering degree too, but I wouldn't let her design my system.
The amps will rarely if ever pull the whole eighty amps they're rated for, since we're just talking about driving music. I don't think an alternator upgrade is in order, unless the original poster plans to absolutely blast music or test-tones.
(In which case ear-plugs will be a more cost-effective investment than alternators)
Sheesh.
On the topic of mass-loading, there are plenty of ways to reduce a panel's vibration characteristics. You could brace it with a rigid piece of material, for instance. Less weight, more effective damping for low frequency vibration. Mass-loading in this scenario isn't to kill low vibration, it's to prevent 'ringing.' In this instance, mass-loading is more effective than bracing.
Ten pounds of bracing isn't going to do much for your road noise.
Ten pounds of Dynamat isn't going to silence your burping bass trunk.
That should clear up a common misconception.
I think everything here should be pretty agreeable, no?
Last edited by theCybe; Aug 26, 2007 at 04:39 PM.
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 77
Likes: 0
From: in a house
You'll have to excuse us, we come from the realm of kilowatts and multiple alternators. In extreme situations, the few percentage difference matters. Much like removing your spare before a run on the track.
I bought two rolls of 'peel and seal,' a cheapo Home Depot material for roofing. It's the same concept as most deadeners; Asphalt/Butyl adhesive mat with Aluminum skin. The two rolls together probably didn't weigh more than twenty pounds, and it was plenty enough to deaden my two doors, hatch lid, and hatch walls. That may not be enough to contain a super loud system, but it's enough to run a set of components, a small subwoofer, and diminish outside noises.
In my opinion, in my experience.
Custel's style of deadening is more along the lines of containing pressure inside the cabin. That's what SPL is all about. You could detonate explosives inside his vehicle and the neighbors would sleep right through it. I don't think this poster needs that kind of deadening.
Since we're talking about dimming down the road-noise, and not about maximizing extreme sound pressure, the difference will be negligible between deadener 1 and deadener 2.
But, for the original poster, the difference between no deadener and a nice deadening adventure will be night and day. The doorskins are flimsy, and deadening them will yeild an improvement in in-cabin quietness, and also the response of your doorspeakers. Also, the doors will feel and sound more solid when you shut them.
To me, those benefits are worth the eight or twelve pounds. (probably even less)
If you can remove the seats, carpet and trim, you can remove the doorcards
The floor of the car is more heavily reinforced (and less of a flat, flimsy piece of sheetmetal) than the doorskins and trunk walls/floor. I think if you want to add only a minimal amount of weight, deaden those areas and skip the floor. Fender wells are a good candidate also.
There's no need to be sarcastic and throw your degree around. My girlfriend has an engineering degree too, but I wouldn't let her design my system.
The amps will rarely if ever pull the whole eighty amps they're rated for, since we're just talking about driving music. I don't think an alternator upgrade is in order, unless the original poster plans to absolutely blast music or test-tones.
(In which case ear-plugs will be a more cost-effective investment than alternators)
Sheesh.
On the topic of mass-loading, there are plenty of ways to reduce a panel's vibration characteristics. You could brace it with a rigid piece of material, for instance. Less weight, more effective damping for low frequency vibration. Mass-loading in this scenario isn't to kill low vibration, it's to prevent 'ringing.' In this instance, mass-loading is more effective than bracing.
Ten pounds of bracing isn't going to do much for your road noise.
Ten pounds of Dynamat isn't going to silence your burping bass trunk.
That should clear up a common misconception.
I think everything here should be pretty agreeable, no?
I bought two rolls of 'peel and seal,' a cheapo Home Depot material for roofing. It's the same concept as most deadeners; Asphalt/Butyl adhesive mat with Aluminum skin. The two rolls together probably didn't weigh more than twenty pounds, and it was plenty enough to deaden my two doors, hatch lid, and hatch walls. That may not be enough to contain a super loud system, but it's enough to run a set of components, a small subwoofer, and diminish outside noises.
In my opinion, in my experience.
Custel's style of deadening is more along the lines of containing pressure inside the cabin. That's what SPL is all about. You could detonate explosives inside his vehicle and the neighbors would sleep right through it.
I don't think this poster needs that kind of deadening.Since we're talking about dimming down the road-noise, and not about maximizing extreme sound pressure, the difference will be negligible between deadener 1 and deadener 2.
But, for the original poster, the difference between no deadener and a nice deadening adventure will be night and day. The doorskins are flimsy, and deadening them will yeild an improvement in in-cabin quietness, and also the response of your doorspeakers. Also, the doors will feel and sound more solid when you shut them.
To me, those benefits are worth the eight or twelve pounds. (probably even less)
If you can remove the seats, carpet and trim, you can remove the doorcards
The floor of the car is more heavily reinforced (and less of a flat, flimsy piece of sheetmetal) than the doorskins and trunk walls/floor. I think if you want to add only a minimal amount of weight, deaden those areas and skip the floor. Fender wells are a good candidate also.
There's no need to be sarcastic and throw your degree around. My girlfriend has an engineering degree too, but I wouldn't let her design my system.
The amps will rarely if ever pull the whole eighty amps they're rated for, since we're just talking about driving music. I don't think an alternator upgrade is in order, unless the original poster plans to absolutely blast music or test-tones.
(In which case ear-plugs will be a more cost-effective investment than alternators)
Sheesh.
On the topic of mass-loading, there are plenty of ways to reduce a panel's vibration characteristics. You could brace it with a rigid piece of material, for instance. Less weight, more effective damping for low frequency vibration. Mass-loading in this scenario isn't to kill low vibration, it's to prevent 'ringing.' In this instance, mass-loading is more effective than bracing.
Ten pounds of bracing isn't going to do much for your road noise.
Ten pounds of Dynamat isn't going to silence your burping bass trunk.
That should clear up a common misconception.
I think everything here should be pretty agreeable, no?
http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Arguably, the best deadening materials available today.
Arguably, the best deadening materials available today.
B-quiet
How long did it take you to do the whole trunk? How much did it cost and how much did you have left?
As promised...here are the pics of my trunk with B-Quiet Sorry guys, but I didn't feel like taking the entire trunk apart to show you everything I did. 
Just imagine that the two strut towers are completely covered. I also removed the washer fluid bottle and got my hands back there and put some on the outer sheet metal as well. Same goes for the opposite side of the trunk. I pretty much covered anything that was metal
Keep in mind that this won't make a GIGANTIC difference in noise. My exhaust is quieter and road noise is quieter...but I can still hear both. Especially the road noise...but that's primarily from the front tires (still have stock Advans on and those mothers are noisy). Overall, my car is quieter and the trunk will not vibrate on bit once I get my JL Audio 12W6 installed
Trunk lid
Driver's side
Behind rear seat
Spare tire well
Passenger side (w/SSL subwoofer)
Sorry guys, but I didn't feel like taking the entire trunk apart to show you everything I did. Just imagine that the two strut towers are completely covered. I also removed the washer fluid bottle and got my hands back there and put some on the outer sheet metal as well. Same goes for the opposite side of the trunk. I pretty much covered anything that was metal Keep in mind that this won't make a GIGANTIC difference in noise. My exhaust is quieter and road noise is quieter...but I can still hear both. Especially the road noise...but that's primarily from the front tires (still have stock Advans on and those mothers are noisy). Overall, my car is quieter and the trunk will not vibrate on bit once I get my JL Audio 12W6 installed
Trunk lid
Driver's side
Behind rear seat
Spare tire well
Passenger side (w/SSL subwoofer)
http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Arguably, the best deadening materials available today.
Arguably, the best deadening materials available today.
FWIW, I had dynamat throughout the trunk of my hold honda when I ran it in DB drags and eventually moved to rhino lining with dynamat over that. PITA but it seemed to work. (note: this was wayyyy back in the dark ages of the 20th century)
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