Is this normal?
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Is this normal?
I have bought and installed an ALPINE CDA-9884 head unit and bought the adapter cable/harness (MITAH/METRA) for my 05 Evo w/SSL package.
I read the above sticky and did the install as followed and t-tapped the blue wire from the MITAH cable to the blue/white wire on the stock harness...
now, everytime i turn the car on, more so, when the HU turns on, there's like a popping noise from the speakers. it hurts my ears having to hear that "pop" everytime the HU turns on...
IS THIS NORMAL?
I read the above sticky and did the install as followed and t-tapped the blue wire from the MITAH cable to the blue/white wire on the stock harness...
now, everytime i turn the car on, more so, when the HU turns on, there's like a popping noise from the speakers. it hurts my ears having to hear that "pop" everytime the HU turns on...
IS THIS NORMAL?
#3
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I don't know if it's normal or not for ssls, but usually you can fix it by putting a delay on the turn on of the amplifier. You should be able to do it with a capacitor and a resistor, but I don't know values. I'll see what I can find for you. It could also be a wiring issue.
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I'd say whatever instructions you followed were FUBAR'd. I recently put an iDA-X001 in my '05 SSL with the harnesses you list. No pop. No T-taps, no resistors, capacitors, fantabulators or any other BS used! It was all straight up plug-n-play. I will try to get a pic of my wiring sometime tomorrow.
http://tinyurl.com/5afmwe & http://tinyurl.com/5ctxqq <-- these are the two harnesses I used.
And a link to the instructions you followed would be a help...so others can be warned.
http://tinyurl.com/5afmwe & http://tinyurl.com/5ctxqq <-- these are the two harnesses I used.
And a link to the instructions you followed would be a help...so others can be warned.
Last edited by WhiteEvo05; Jul 7, 2008 at 09:18 PM.
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should be the easiest thing to amp integrate the newer packaging from metra electronics included the serial cable to adapt for a factory amplified system you should not have to tap anything. Unless you got the older harness with just the regular power/speaker plug. Generally if you get a pop when the system turns on you can use a resistor field to get rid of this pop you can look it up on some of the mobile electronic forums under stuff like Ford resistor field..
#6
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If you can't find an issue with your install (it sounds like you should though) you can try this:
Designing a turn on/off delay circuit is quite simple and will cost you no more than $5 to make. All parts can be picked up from Radio Shack or Fry's if you have them as well as Parts Express. This will cover the mechanical aspects of it - theoretical topics can come later. If you suffer from pops on your amps or any other components, this will help you eliminate it, but it does not work in all cases.
You will need the following parts..
1 12 volt SPDT 30 amp relay
1 NPN Transistor
1 Diode (same one installer uses in alarms)
1 capacitor with either different values of 100uf to 1000uf, polarized electrolytic, 16 volts or higher
1 few small fuse holders (for safety issues)
Start off with your turn on lead or ignition switch from your head unit. Wire in series a diode with the stripe facing towards the amp. (you can put a 1 amp fuse here in case you short out the turn on lead.)
Next, wire the capacitor after the diode and ground it. The higher the impedance on the capacitor, the longer it'll delay.
After the capacitor, the transistor is straight forward, wire the turn on lead to B, 12 volts to C, then E out to the relay.
For the relay, use 86 as the input from your turn lead lead, and ground 85. Wire 12 volts to 87 (make sure you fuse this) and 30 out to your components. When the coils are energized, 87 and 30 will be connected and will send current to your devices.
Designing a turn on/off delay circuit is quite simple and will cost you no more than $5 to make. All parts can be picked up from Radio Shack or Fry's if you have them as well as Parts Express. This will cover the mechanical aspects of it - theoretical topics can come later. If you suffer from pops on your amps or any other components, this will help you eliminate it, but it does not work in all cases.
You will need the following parts..
1 12 volt SPDT 30 amp relay
1 NPN Transistor
1 Diode (same one installer uses in alarms)
1 capacitor with either different values of 100uf to 1000uf, polarized electrolytic, 16 volts or higher
1 few small fuse holders (for safety issues)
Start off with your turn on lead or ignition switch from your head unit. Wire in series a diode with the stripe facing towards the amp. (you can put a 1 amp fuse here in case you short out the turn on lead.)
Next, wire the capacitor after the diode and ground it. The higher the impedance on the capacitor, the longer it'll delay.
After the capacitor, the transistor is straight forward, wire the turn on lead to B, 12 volts to C, then E out to the relay.
For the relay, use 86 as the input from your turn lead lead, and ground 85. Wire 12 volts to 87 (make sure you fuse this) and 30 out to your components. When the coils are energized, 87 and 30 will be connected and will send current to your devices.
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good stuff guys...thanks for all the help. as far as for the people who said they're gonna get back to me with pictures/instructions/advice. i greatly appreciate the help and will be looking forward to your posts.
but anyway, yeah it bothers me to hear that sound. unfortunately i cant view much right now cuz im using my phone for this post...but ill check back here time to time and of course keep u folks updated with this problem in the event another individual like me experiences this problem.
but anyway, yeah it bothers me to hear that sound. unfortunately i cant view much right now cuz im using my phone for this post...but ill check back here time to time and of course keep u folks updated with this problem in the event another individual like me experiences this problem.
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Here's the pic of my Metra/Mitah harness for my Alpine iDA-X001 as installed in a 2005 SSL. Pretty straightforward.
There are only six wires that need to be connected, along with the four RCA connectors. The solid blue on the Mitah/DIN connector needs to go to the Blue/White wire of the Alpine harness for turning on the factory amp. Everything else is just Yel-->Yel, Bl-->Bl, and so on. Black goes to a good ground...I used one of the 10mm bolts right behind the radio on the pressed metal framing of the dash. No noise, alternator whine, etc.
I removed all the extra wires from the harnesses (extra bothers me. ), except the pink...I had a reason for some future thing at the time. It's proabably coming out now, as this is just a temporary head unit
Hope this helps!
Last edited by WhiteEvo05; Jul 8, 2008 at 04:27 PM.
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In mine I did hook up the solid blue wire from the Metra stock harness adapter to the solid blue from the Alpine harness. This is for a powered antenna. The electrical diagrams in the service manual show a powered antenna amplifier. If it's there, it's getting power...if it's not there, I'm just powering up a dead wire...NBD.
#12
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it's not necessarily for a "powered" antenna, it's for power antenna, the types that raise and lower when you turn the radio on. I guess it'd work the same. I know the blue wire coming out of the Alpine is only energized when the radio is on. Maybe I'll wire mine up and see if that helps reception any. The only thing I'd be worried about is the powered antenna amplifier might draw more current than what the Alpine is designed to supply through that wire.
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