Thoughts and Comments - New Audio Setup
I will start off by saying my knowledge of car stereo is rather basic. I'm looking for some constructive criticism and just general thoughts on my plan for my audio setup. I do not plan on winning competitions with this setup, I'm looking for something that sounds clean and looks presentable at the occasional car show.
Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6800MP
Mono Amp: Alpine PDX-1.1000
Subs: 2x Alpine SWR-1242D
Component Amp: Alpine PDX-4.100
Component Speakers: 2x SPR-17S
Other Items: 200Amp Alternator by Excessive Amperage, Upgrade Big Three, 2x 1.2f Tsunami Litewave Capacitors
The enclosures for the subs will be 0.85cuft as per Alpine’s recommendation on a sealed box.
If I’ve left out something important, forgive me. As I said, my knowledge is fairly basic. Just hoping to catch something if I've gone wrong somewhere, etc. I selected the Alpine components and subs based on spending some time listening to various speakers/subs at shops. I like the way the Alpines sounded compared to price.
Any input will be greatly appreciated - I do plan on having a shop I trust do the actual installs.
Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-P6800MP
Mono Amp: Alpine PDX-1.1000
Subs: 2x Alpine SWR-1242D
Component Amp: Alpine PDX-4.100
Component Speakers: 2x SPR-17S
Other Items: 200Amp Alternator by Excessive Amperage, Upgrade Big Three, 2x 1.2f Tsunami Litewave Capacitors
The enclosures for the subs will be 0.85cuft as per Alpine’s recommendation on a sealed box.
If I’ve left out something important, forgive me. As I said, my knowledge is fairly basic. Just hoping to catch something if I've gone wrong somewhere, etc. I selected the Alpine components and subs based on spending some time listening to various speakers/subs at shops. I like the way the Alpines sounded compared to price.
Any input will be greatly appreciated - I do plan on having a shop I trust do the actual installs.
Last edited by darkwolf; Jun 30, 2009 at 03:58 AM. Reason: Corrected the parts list.
I'm pretty sure with the upgraded alternator and the yellow top battery you won't need the capacitors. Other than that, looks like you have a really nice system going on. I would recommend sound deadening, at the very least, the front doors. The trunk would be a good idea too.
Also, if you're only running the 4.100 to the components up front you might think about using a PCX 2.150. It will give you enough power and I'm pretty sure is a bit cheaper than the 4.100.
Also, if you're only running the 4.100 to the components up front you might think about using a PCX 2.150. It will give you enough power and I'm pretty sure is a bit cheaper than the 4.100.
Nevermind on the 2.150. I see you're running two sets of components. There's really no reason to run two sets. You won't hear the advantage over just running a set of matching coaxials. Two sets of components is a waste of money IMO.
I'm pretty sure with the upgraded alternator and the yellow top battery you won't need the capacitors. Other than that, looks like you have a really nice system going on. I would recommend sound deadening, at the very least, the front doors. The trunk would be a good idea too.
Also, if you're only running the 4.100 to the components up front you might think about using a PCX 2.150. It will give you enough power and I'm pretty sure is a bit cheaper than the 4.100.
Also, if you're only running the 4.100 to the components up front you might think about using a PCX 2.150. It will give you enough power and I'm pretty sure is a bit cheaper than the 4.100.
I plan to run the PDX-4.100 to all four components, thanks for the note though.
I appreciate the feedback!
nice gear you got there! once you get everything installed, just enjoy the music! and share pics, too.
+1 also on the rear speakers...unless you really have to have component speakers in there, my only suggestion is to swap them out for coaxials instead, most especially if you're into sound quality and clarity. just my 2 cents.
+1 also on the rear speakers...unless you really have to have component speakers in there, my only suggestion is to swap them out for coaxials instead, most especially if you're into sound quality and clarity. just my 2 cents.
Good setup. You can save some money by switching from a yellow top to a red top battery. You really don't need a yellow unless you plan on leaving your system playing for a long period of time w/o the car running.
Also as said before lose the rear set of components and go to coaxial. Use that saved money for Dynamat.
Also as said before lose the rear set of components and go to coaxial. Use that saved money for Dynamat.
Looks good, toss the capacitors the alternator is the right way to go. I like components all the way around without them the people in the back seet get to listen to crap. I'll agree with others the difference is minimal coaxial vs component for the front occupants.
Dynamatt or any of the cheaper brands would be wise.
Dynamatt or any of the cheaper brands would be wise.
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Yes and no. I'm running two matching sets of Focal components. If you can find a perfectly matched coax, it'll be fine, but if you have the money, having two sets of the exact same speaker is better for timbre matching, which is why I opted for the extra expense of a secon set of components....may not be a big deal to some, but having spent enough time hearing problems with timbre matching I knew I couldn't live with it if I had a mismatched set.
Yes and no. I'm running two matching sets of Focal components. If you can find a perfectly matched coax, it'll be fine, but if you have the money, having two sets of the exact same speaker is better for timbre matching, which is why I opted for the extra expense of a secon set of components....may not be a big deal to some, but having spent enough time hearing problems with timbre matching I knew I couldn't live with it if I had a mismatched set.
if you are a fan of sound quality, and it seems like you are by looking at the quality products selected, you should keep the cap. it smoothes out the subs big time and they hit a little harder. but if your a fan of that rap jibberish and just want loud, distorted boom and dimming lights, then ditch the cap. just a f.y.i. from a seasoned installer.
I agree that less expensive component sets can vary widely in how one set compares to another. However, I have spent a lot of time listening to Focals from their lower end models all the way up to their highest end ones. At the low end, yes I do agree....timbre matching can suffer from one set to another, but not as drastically as a lower end set of Boston Acoustic, Alpine, etc. I have the Focal K2P's and the front and rear are spot on. If I wanted a Focal coax to save on money, I would have had to get the Focal 165HC which I guarantee would not be timbre matched with the K2P as it is an entirely different series. Granted, many people won't notice a difference in sound especially for rear fill, but in my auditioning of K2P components with 165HC coax's, there is a very significant difference to my ear.
I agree that less expensive component sets can vary widely in how one set compares to another. However, I have spent a lot of time listening to Focals from their lower end models all the way up to their highest end ones. At the low end, yes I do agree....timbre matching can suffer from one set to another, but not as drastically as a lower end set of Boston Acoustic, Alpine, etc. I have the Focal K2P's and the front and rear are spot on. If I wanted a Focal coax to save on money, I would have had to get the Focal 165HC which I guarantee would not be timbre matched with the K2P as it is an entirely different series. Granted, many people won't notice a difference in sound especially for rear fill, but in my auditioning of K2P components with 165HC coax's, there is a very significant difference to my ear.
Thanks for all the input - waiting on the subs and the mono amp to get delivered. Dynamat is going in all four doors and the trunk. I'll post up pics as soon as everything gets in and I have a chance.


