What kind of power are you looking to make?

 

There is no end game with me until I get rid of the car... I did make the OE clutch last 38k with about 250-260 wheel ft lbs of torque. Maybe I can be a John Shepard and make a ACT street disc last running 8's at over 800hp

 

well the ACT Street is rate for just over 400 ft.lbs.

 

ACTually we rate our EVO street clutch at 497 ftlbs but that is at peak clamp load. You need to allow a little bit of a safety factor so I wouldn't go over about 450 ftlbs. The friction coeffecient we are using in our calculations is slipping friction, not static friction so after the clutch is locked up it will probably hold more than what it is rated for but if the clutch is really hot, it will hold less.

 

Shepherd goes through a clutch every race.

 

Where do you get that mis-information? We give him whatever clutches he needs as part of a sponsorship deal and we didn't send him but a few all last year, including his backup sets. He just told me Friday that he is going to dyno on his old set. But let me also say that I have seen him smoke through one in a couple runs before as well. On his car, it's a miracle the street disc lives at all to be honest. It calculates outt to be over 100 ftlbs short of holding the power he is making. He drives so smooth and gentle to save his driveline that somehow the clutch holds. We have been telling him for years that he needs to use more of a race set up. He keeps proving us wrong. This year we are going to do something a little different (a little clutch R&D).

 

I don't have the time to go through this whole thread, but here is my input, for what it's worth.

I have had the RPS twin carbon for around 5k miles and I love it. The pedal feel and engagement is like stock. It is very streetable and easy to drive. I am going to teach my wife to drive a manual on my car, and I am really not worried at all. It has never slipped under throttle, and I drive on race gas all the time. My car is making 530whp on it's everyday conservative 110 octane map, and it holds great. It is also a joy in 405 freeway traffic, aka hell. The clutch is also very quiet. It is like having your cake and eating it too. No compromise.

This is the clutch I have, so it is the only one I am going to comment on. Good luck, and I hope you find what is going to work for you.

 

Ok...seems like a ton of people like the ACT's.

To those that have them or have good experience with hp/torque relation to what kind of clutch...

I'm about 330 at the wheels...plan on going to about 450ish at the wheels. I drive it weekends pretty much spring through fall. I don't autocross but wouldn't mind once in a great while, I don't drag, but I might once or twice just to know what I do. I refuse to street race.

Which ACT would people recomend for the above circumstances???

Thanks

 

Wait, you're going for 450 to the wheels on a weekend car? Dang... No autocrossing, no dragging... Tell me you're gonna track race, or else I say stay where you are and just go with a stock clutch.. if you're not launching or shifting fast going on Sunday drives, you'll be just fine

 

Yeah...450ish for my weekend ride! LOL I have the need for power sometimes. Least I'm not going all crazy and doing a drag car for a weekend ride! hehehe

I drive hard but respectful. Stock clutch has 21k on it and is slipping in 2nd. I shift hard and fast...so I KNOW I need something better.

 

At least 90% of the people using our clutch run the street disc. We sell very few race kits.

 

Not to get off-topic, but if you purchase the ACT street disc, is the flywheel replacement required? I have 60K on my OEM clutch/flywheel (lots of HW miles). I'd hate to have the clutch taken off and find out the flywheel needs to be replaced as well.

Any suggestions?

 

As a suggestion from someone who's not at all a professional... I say this:
It's like replacing the throw out bearing... if you have it out, you might as well replace the other parts around it, unless you're doing it yourself, and then you should be just fine

 

You have to inspect the parts and see what they look like to really make a determination. The more you allow the clutch to slip and get hot before you change out the clutch, the worse the flywheel will look and you risk replacement costs.

On the other hand, if you don't get much heat into the parts you may not even need to resurface the flywheel. Those are the two extremes. Usually you would just resurface the flywheel anyway to be sure. I would say that if you have less than .020" of warpage and no cracks, then resurfacing is a good option.

 

Thanks for the imput guys. My clutch isn't slipping much yet so I'm probably OK with a resurfacing.