I have been running the unit for several months now with no issues. Perhaps you can tell my settings from this pic. Gain is set to the 2nd mark and high boost is set to 1 click before the 4th mark which is ~20-21psi.

 

That's the same place I mounted mine.

Your settings seem to agree with about what mine are. Have you ever tried running a lot higher boost? I'm wondering what the boost would be with the high knob at like 75% or even max. It just doesn't seem like it would go to the 43 psi or whatever the Type-S is rated for if 20ish psi is around the middle mark.

I could be wrong though, that's why I am asking what others have seen when turning the boost up. I mean if 22 or so psi is about the middle of the high knob, then you only have 15 more clicks to get to the max reading (there are 10 marks, 11 including the 0 point, with 3 clicks per mark). And, if I remember right, from the lowest setting on the high knob, I got like 17 psi and then about half way I got like 22 psi. So, if the first half (15 clicks) only went up like 5 psi, does the other half also only go up 5 psi, to result in 27 psi max? Or does each click keep raising the boost by a larger margin?

That's what I want to know. I will fill up with some race gas soon enough to find out, but I was wondering how the high knob reacts once you're past the mid mark, whether it is a linear progression or whether it ramps up more exponentially.


Eric

 

I think it is only good for ~37.5psi from what I remember. My old Profec B on my twinturbo 240Z would max at 28psi. It is also a function of the baseline wastegate pressure although I believe the Type S is closed loop because of the boost reference at the back of the unit.

 

I had the old Profec B on my Eclipse, too. It would max out around 28 psi. I liked the Profec-B so much, that I got the updated version, which is basically what the Type-S is.

Actually, the profec-B and Type-S both have boost references on the back of the head unit. They are almost exactly the same boost controller. Greddy just basically re-released the original Profec-B as the Profec-S with an upgraded solenoid and head unit with software that controls the solenoid to higher pressure levels.

The spring pressure on the wastegate should only come into play when there is enough back pressure in the hotside to cause the wastegate to crack open. The pressure that the head unit and solenoid itself can hold doesn't really have anything to do with the spring.

Eric

 

Hey Eric, I see you finally picked up a Type S ebc.(HmanGSX from the DSMLink forums). I checked my settings and with the gain about 1/3 up and the Hi knob 11 clicks from max, I get aprox 27-28psi in 3rd gear. I will add that I've adjusted the turnbuckle on the factory wastegate actuator all the way tight whether that matters or not. I was under the assumption that the wastegate's spring pressure did have an affect on the max boost the Type S could make. Wasn't that how the profec B worked? It could hold something along the lines of 2x's the wastegate's spring pressure? Also, I've had it at this setting for quite a while so I can't really comment on whether each click progresses linearly or exponentially but If I had to guess I'd say linearly.

 

Hey, Chris, what's going on?

Thanks for the info. It sounds like you have your high knob about 4 clicks to the right of the middle then, since there are 30 total clicks. When I get a chance to put some race gas I'll check out what I get at that setting.

I'm thinking that your adjustment of the turnbuckle helped out a bit, too, since the stock spring is pretty weak. If I get some time soon, I will do that, too. I was meaning to do that pretty soon anyway.

As far as spring pressure and what the boost controller could hold, yes they are related since a weak spring will eventually crack open no matter what boost controller is on there and what setting you have it at. But, I was just stating that the actual controller and solenoid would still be able to hold more boost as a whole....if that makes any sense.

Obviously on the stock turbo and the stock spring, both of those are against us. The stock turbo and spring will only hold about 22 psi to redline anyway, so it doesn't matter what we turned the EBC to. But, I could still use the boost spikes to figure out if my Type-S was a 'good' unit.

I'm pretty sure it is, but I was just wondering. Thanks again for the data.


Eric

 

what ever came of this?

Can you only run a certain amount of boost if you have factory wastegate actuator?

I want to run 25psi or maybe a lil more on race gas. Is it possible with the type s and factory actuator?

 

i have a type s in my other car i think i am going to pull it out and try it in hear. i just pulled out the avcr what a freaking nightmare. somedays are good some days are bad. so is the type s working for everyone now?

 

I have a type S controlling my 35R with a 1 bar WG spring and my max boost on the low knob was about 17-18 psi. I am running 22-23 psi now with the knob a bit past half way on the high boost knob....do you guys think I have the "updated" software? I agree that it does not seem like I'll be able to get 30 psi out of the unit as it sits now.

 

Just for reference to my setup, I'm running a 1bar WG spring and I see 26psi with the high knob several clicks before halfway. I can check it later to get the exact placement of the knob but its definitely before the halfway point. It would seem you do not have the updated software imo.

 

why can't we have 20-23psi on the low boost side?

Is it because of the factory wastegate spring being to low?

 

I did a little blip in 2nd gear with the know ~5/8th the way and the boost hit 30psi. I think the 35psi is doable with the controller.

 

are you using a stock actuator?

Myself and my friend both can't get over or even 20psi with the low boost side. We managed to get 20-22 psi out of the high boost side in the 2 o clock position.

 

I figured out my problem.

When I was installing I over read the instructions. Basically, I was being a flipping tard.

Anyways, I have an internal (oem) style wga so I only use what the com and the NO ports right.

So I figured since I wasn't using the NC port that I could leave the plastic plug in there.


It basically needs to be venting to atmosphere.


So, again I live up to my fathers sayings, "why do you have to always learn **** the hard way".



So again for anyone that maybe having a tardtastic moment like me. "ALL PLASTIC PLUGS FROM ALL PORTS ARE REMOVED", then "BARB FITTINGS ON WHATEVER YOUR ACTUATOR STYLE IS".


For people that may come across this in a search.