I said "narrow powerband" because most of us are not equipped to withstand 9k rpm in our daily drivers, and likewise, most of us are probably not willing to drop in another >$5-6k or so in short block mods, headwork, installation and shipping charges, et al. Most of us will need to be content with 7.5-8k rpm and stock blocks/ heads.

Additionally, most of us can't exactly justify using C16 ($7-9/gal) to realize the benefits of the GT35. It's expensive, inconvenient, and largely impractical for daily driven use.

So yes, the GT35 begins looking good when one can throw in large sums of money on top of the turbo kit. For most of us however who drive our cars daily, don't work in installation shops, and buy our parts at retail prices, the picture looks quite a bit different.

 

Well said Ted B,what do you think the potential of the 3071 garret is on 91 or 93.
Is it worth the extra lag over the 16g say w/10.5 hotside.

 

I've looked at this from every possible angle, and my conclusion is that the 3071 gives not enough of a jump in performance above the factory turbo to warrant a high priced kit (e.g. $4k and up). The price of admission is just too steep for what you get in return. There are lower priced kits that make this turbo a more attractive option where performance/$ ratio is considered.

The 10.5t turbo is $1k, the lesser priced 3071s are ~$2300. For the extra $1300, you get an extra 40-70whp (DJ) in power potential so long as you have the hardware (e.g. injectors, tuning, etc.) to support it, so its largely a financial decision based upon the cost of the kit plus extras. The slight difference in lag is easily offset by the extra power.

For those like myself, who already have the 10.5t, it makes no financial sense to go to the 3071. The only worthwhile step (from a financial standpoint) for us seems to be a 3037 (or larger).

 

So your saying for the money(2300) its better to get the 3037 instead of the 3071 because its has more power? If I am going to upgrade I might as well get the bigger turbo(3037) with slightly less spool up but more power for the money if I am going to spend the 2300 anyways?

Derek

 

I planing to get AMS trubo kit for my evo!!!

 

It's a tough call because I don't think you'd be disappointed with either. In my personal opinion however, I'd opt for the 3037 for myself, but only because I've already invested in a 10.5t and I'm willing to accept a little lag in favor of a bit more power potential.

 

wow... this thread is so good... i almost agree with everything said in here. one more option to put out there, for those that don't MIND putting together your own kit... try a regular garret housing 3052, puts out more than 3037 but can be made to spool the same if not sooner. now i have to qualify this statement because the person i know running this has all the bells and whistles, on the same setup (supporting mods) i'm not informed on whether or not the 3037 would boost faster. but 3052 can make 440-460 on 110 and full boost by 3800 (note i say CAN but it takes some serious, not light hearted, modding).

now since the 3071r can be made to spool faster than stock ti's not necessarily so that the 3037 is gonna be THAT slow... and when you're going with turbos of this size you're not messing around with safc so keep in mind you can get a lil antilag tuning going on with your aem ems.

and ams does bring up a good point because compared to stock or similar (3071, 10.5) the gt series turbos can pull all theway up until 9k whereas none of the above listed ones can and lose puff.

 

I would have to agree with that for the most part. Except the way you looked at AMS or the others and putting it down is not neccassarily true. The 3037 kicks in a few hundred rpms earlier then AMS. They did there R&D and made it suitable for daily drivers, and don't need racefuel to do it. I ran the 3037 in my 8 and will probaably be putting it back into my MR at some point, but I would have bought the AMS 35r but I was stressed out over certain things on the car, and I was at pruven when Al offered me his 3037. All I put in was head studs and rod bolts, and thats what could be used on the 35r, and use a flash or tuning device to bring the rpms up to 7800 and you are all set. No need for 9k rpms, that is just something you could do with it. But that brings up a good comparison. Al uses his Car as a daily driver, cept now more of a weekend warrior but he maxxed out the 3037 at 550hp on with racefuel and 11.6's. Not saying people want to pass that, but isn't always good to have a maxxed out car. He upgaded just the turbo kit nothing else and dynoed at 650+ noting different.

So to summarize this, the 35r and 3037 are similar and now up to you.

 

I like the RnR kit because of the mnifold. They sell it with a lifetime warantee. The reason they do it is because that manifold is so damn tough. They use THICK (8 gauge) cast bends to put the manifold together. No pipe bending means no weakened material. Ryan at RnR does the welding, and he makes an art out of it. I went to their shop one time and they saw some parts I had where the welds were not up to their standard. They wouldn't let me leave without them fixing those welds that weren't even theirs to begin with. It was ammusing because they seemed almost obbsessive compulsive about it. It's a good thing.

Anyways. What AMS said on here is accurate to a tee. The 35R makes a ton of power down low while it spools and has the most linear delivery you'll see. I reccomend the 35R. I run a custom RnR kit with the 35R and make around 430whp on straight 91. You'll make serious power from 4K - 8K and higher if you are built for it. I wouldn't call that narrow. Remember, even while you are not at peak boost down lower, you still pull like mad. You won't need any special supporting mods that you won't already have. Nobody is forcing you to turn the boost yo 30psi. If you decide to mod further though, the potential is there.

For the record, Ryan at RnR obviously backs his product, but he speaks very highly of the AMS kit too. Rightfully so, they are both great quality.

 

yes something to keep in mind is with bigger turbos like the 3052 and the gt35r maybe even the 3037, while you're not making full boost by the time stock turbo does, you're making MORE boost at EVERY point, and more power, so it's not gonna be "dead" but you will hit drivability and handlability issues due to a huge amount of horsepower when you do hit peak.

btw... the reason why i mentioned piecing together your own kit is because you can do things like take the best sized trubine, take the best header (rnr) take the best cold air intake (some custom one that you can get a shop to make, rnr makes one) take the best an fittings and the largest steel lines etc and it might end up costing less than a preassembled kit, and you'll get it taylored to your likings as for power delivery and peak etc.

 

Both nice kits, AMS kit comes with a ss manifold and intake, atp does not so of course it will be cheaper. the equal lenth will spool better then the stock mani, even though the stock is still decent, but if your going with the bigger turbo spool would matter to me. Boils down to a matter of money and choice in what you really want, quality cost money. Not in everything, but many things I have found to be true you do get what you pay for. You payless, you get less.

 

Ok, but a 3037 makes the right about same power on pump fuel and spools earlier.

 

Where will a 3037 spool? In what gear? Will the 3037 make as much power on ramp up? Is it as efficient a turbo? What type of race gas capability does it have? I understand the 3037 is popular, but I think there is a myth about the 35R being "too laggy", or a "drag turbo". I remember when a 16G was considered too big with dsmers. Then it was the 18G, then 20G, then 50trim......

 

what can you say about 3.5 exhaust with gt35r? Is it worth it? Or to stay with 3inch?

 

Custom kit with GT3542R(GT35R enxhuast side,GT42R intake side)