go with 3071 or 3037 anything else is a HUGE mismatch on our small 2.0 engine. I hate lag and I just CANT stand it. I want response and I want my car to jump right away with no lag (I don’t know about you) all I know in the real world in the track and anywhere a 4500~5000 RPM full boost is tooo late for me. ATP is a great turbo kit and it's cheap and their customer service is amazing. I have it with 7K miles and I love it. or simply wait and see because BR is coming with a new turbo 20G 10.5 housing TI.

 

oh btw I know a guy who made 396WHP (race gas 110) on dyno jet with the 3071 ATP turbo kit (no cams no manifold) basically he spent $2400 for the turbo kit and around $1000 for engine management, fuel pump and injectors. I made 350 on pump 91 ****ty gas.

 

3Deep, your GT35R was on a standard manifold. The equal length manifold makes a lot more torque and feels a lot better down low. Also tuning plays a huge factor as we have found the GT35R w/equal length manifold to get full boost by 4200-4400rpm.

We really like the GT35R turbo. Lag is really overrated.

 

I'm not sure about any "HUGE mismatch". Read: I am on a full 35R and make full boost by 4200 - 4400. Before that, the power is still very intense and responsive. There is no "dead spot". Who cares if you don't make a certain psi by a certain rpm. That's just bench racing. If the power is there, the car goes forward, and thats it.

 

Seriously... the stock setup lags too, just a bit less. Powerwise you make similar power at anything above 3500rpm and then above 4300 or so it's no contest. 400+whp on 91 crap gas is good stuff

 

Is there a difference between the 3071 and 3071R? For daily driving I think 3037 or 3071 might be better. Because if you went with the GT35 you probably would have to spend more mods to compliment the turbo? Let me get this straight, 3037 has more power than the 3071 but also spools up a tad slower?

 

Oh geez. There are indeed ways to manipulate a turbo to spool a little bit faster, and FWIW, they aren't exactly closely guarded secrets kept in holy scrolls by a mysterious society of car tuner illuminati. The concern is that despite such efforts, there will still almost certainly be additional lag that must be considered.

 

I believe the "r" refers to the fact that it is a reverse rotation turbo...but anything that fits your car will be just that.

The size of the turbo seems to behave similarly to the size of a carburetor on a traditional V8, if you can envision this. What a smaller unit gives up in ultimate power capacity it gains in transient response at lower speeds. This translates directly into 'street feel', and this cannot be measured on the dyno.

My personal preference is to put together the mods to compliment the right size turbo as opposed to just putting the largest turbo one can install and being done with it at that point. Why? Because a highly tuned setup with a smaller turbo will make as much power (or more) than a poorly tuned setup with a larger turbo, and will respond more quickly to abrupt transitions in throttle position, whereas a larger turbo will be slower to respond to abrupt changes in throttle (especially at lower engine speeds) and will have a more sluggish response.

 

Well obviously the guy who's car was "dead" below peak boost levels was not "done right". Perhaps the scrolls had yet to be released. Let's get something straight here. Are we concerned with usable power, or the ability to say "I get xx psi by xxxx rpm?

 

I hear what you're saying, but you're making a few broad generalizations. What about a properly set up large turbo that responds quickly and out performs the smaller setup? Anyone who's been in my car as of late will tell you how quickly it responds and how much power it makes down low. Try it all before making generalizations like that. Sure, it takes a bit of thinking things through, and figuring things out, but in the end it's a beast.

 

I think the R in the Garrett 'GT' lineup refers to the ball-bearing models but I stand to be corrected.
As far as I can remember, there are only a couple of R models in the GT line up: GT3071R, GT30R and GT35R. The rest seems to be hybrid models that are based on the above CHRAs with different wheels.

Cheers
Dennis

 

What are the differences between the htbrid models and ball bearing? Pros and cons?

 

As said above the "R" denote ball bearings. When he said hybrid he meant turbos that are not in the standard Garrett line up. E.g. You won’t find anything like a 3071 as a standard Garrett turbo, it’s a mix of wheels from a GT30 (60mm turbine wheel) and a GT35 (71mm compressor wheel) that’s the reason for the 3071 name. This is to try to make a turbo that suits the needs and provides the power and characteristics you want for your engine.

I myself think it’s a bit confusing with the names, the 3071 could also be named 3035 which is more in line with the 3037 where you have the 76mm compressor wheel and sometimes is referred to as a 3076. Actually it would have been better to stay with either the mix of Garrett names like 3035, 3037, 3540 and so on or maybe just gone with the wheel sizes like 6071 for the 3071/3035. Don’t really see the point in mixing Garrett names with wheel size?

Then there are quite a few R turbos in the Garrett GT series: GT25R,GT28R, GT28RS, GT30R, GT35R and finally the GT42R.

In the non ball bearing series you have: GT12, GT15, GT20, GT22, GT32, GT35, GT37, GT40, GT42 and finally the huge GT60.

 

Man i sold it absolutly new,because i understood that i need 700hp and 1/4 10low

 

so the rs are for sure a demarkation of ball bearing? there's people with regular old 3071s out there though.... that's just a waste... stock like size... and not increase in spool capacity.