My 10.5 Hotside Install & How-To
Originally Posted by SuperHatch
Nice, good job! (Might want to connect the manifold to the turbo though! j/k 
)
)Gets more air that way...LMAO JK
Thank you for posting this thread, gave me the courage to try and do this.
A few things about this process.
1. Its much easier if you remove the two studs that attach the turbo to the manifold. I used a vise grip to remove the studs. Then the exhaust manifold comes right out. Replacement 8 point studs (or bolts if you prefer --I used bolts) are only 50 cents at your local hardware store.
2. Its much easier to remove the manifold prior to the removing the lower heat shield. With the manifold out of the way you can get at the lower shield bolts with next to no effort at all.
3. The O2 senors is a huge PITA. I even have a kick **** socket for it and it still took me a good long while to get it out and even longer to get it in. If I have to do this job again I am gonna dremmel the shield to allow for removal and install without the need to remove the 02 sensor. That would have saved me at least 30 minutes.
4. Everyone talks about porting and polishing these parts when they are off the car. However, all of my parts from the exhaust manifold to the O2 housing were very smooth and fitting. The one item that I noticed needed a little help was the gasket between the turbo and manifold. One lip of it was sticking out into the exhaust flow. I trimmed it down prior to reinstall.
5. All gaskets can be reused.
6. The car will smoke like a mother fuxxer when you restart it. It took my car almost 40 minutes to burn off all the penetrating oil I had shot around in there.
In summary my observation is that the car has more midrange power. It must also have more top end because I had my boost set to 20 PSI and after the install it was 3 psi higher. I all spent $271 on this project. That includes the penetrating oil, replacement hardware, hotside, and a few bandaids.
I purchased my hotside from www.dyno4mance.com. Shipping was quick and service was outstanding.
1. Its much easier if you remove the two studs that attach the turbo to the manifold. I used a vise grip to remove the studs. Then the exhaust manifold comes right out. Replacement 8 point studs (or bolts if you prefer --I used bolts) are only 50 cents at your local hardware store.
2. Its much easier to remove the manifold prior to the removing the lower heat shield. With the manifold out of the way you can get at the lower shield bolts with next to no effort at all.
3. The O2 senors is a huge PITA. I even have a kick **** socket for it and it still took me a good long while to get it out and even longer to get it in. If I have to do this job again I am gonna dremmel the shield to allow for removal and install without the need to remove the 02 sensor. That would have saved me at least 30 minutes.
4. Everyone talks about porting and polishing these parts when they are off the car. However, all of my parts from the exhaust manifold to the O2 housing were very smooth and fitting. The one item that I noticed needed a little help was the gasket between the turbo and manifold. One lip of it was sticking out into the exhaust flow. I trimmed it down prior to reinstall.
5. All gaskets can be reused.
6. The car will smoke like a mother fuxxer when you restart it. It took my car almost 40 minutes to burn off all the penetrating oil I had shot around in there.
In summary my observation is that the car has more midrange power. It must also have more top end because I had my boost set to 20 PSI and after the install it was 3 psi higher. I all spent $271 on this project. That includes the penetrating oil, replacement hardware, hotside, and a few bandaids.
I purchased my hotside from www.dyno4mance.com. Shipping was quick and service was outstanding.
Last edited by Jeff_Jeske; Nov 19, 2005 at 03:32 PM.
I see a pic in the beginning of this thread by the author that shows that the manifold was remove with those two hotside studs still in. All I can say is how the heck did you do that? after an hour of trying to get the studs out I decided to just cut them off, but it still didnt come off, I started fearing bending turbo lines. I eventually got the studs out from underneath the manifold for better grip.
That must of been one hell of a task doing that especially with the radiator in. I couldn't do it, or would be affraid to.
That must of been one hell of a task doing that especially with the radiator in. I couldn't do it, or would be affraid to.
You have to not fear bending the turbo water and oil lines. They can actually flex a little bit to allow room to yank the manifold off. I've since converted my studs to bolts so removing my manifold is a cinch now. 
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
A few things about this process.
1. Its much easier if you remove the two studs that attach the turbo to the manifold. I used a vise grip to remove the studs. Then the exhaust manifold comes right out. Replacement 8 point studs (or bolts if you prefer --I used bolts) are only 50 cents at your local hardware store.
1. Its much easier if you remove the two studs that attach the turbo to the manifold. I used a vise grip to remove the studs. Then the exhaust manifold comes right out. Replacement 8 point studs (or bolts if you prefer --I used bolts) are only 50 cents at your local hardware store.
Manifold-to-turbo bolts: 38 +/- 3 ft-lbs
o2 housing to turbo bolts: 44 +/- 3 ft-lbs
12mm exhaust manifold nuts: 22 +/- 2 ft-lbs
14mm exhaust manifold nuts: 36 +/- 4 ft-lbs
I recommend using HIGH temperature anti-sieze on all nuts and bolts in this area. By HIGH temperature, I mean the nickel stuff, which is rated to 2600F. The copper stuff is rated to 1800F. With exhaust gas temperatures getting to around 1600F, I would expect the outside of the exhaust manifold to get to at least 14-1500F at steady state when cruising on the freeway.
BTW, blue loctite will vaporize at these elevated temperatures. I think loctite is rated to about 5-600F or so.
o2 housing to turbo bolts: 44 +/- 3 ft-lbs
12mm exhaust manifold nuts: 22 +/- 2 ft-lbs
14mm exhaust manifold nuts: 36 +/- 4 ft-lbs
I recommend using HIGH temperature anti-sieze on all nuts and bolts in this area. By HIGH temperature, I mean the nickel stuff, which is rated to 2600F. The copper stuff is rated to 1800F. With exhaust gas temperatures getting to around 1600F, I would expect the outside of the exhaust manifold to get to at least 14-1500F at steady state when cruising on the freeway.
BTW, blue loctite will vaporize at these elevated temperatures. I think loctite is rated to about 5-600F or so.
Originally Posted by Jeff_Jeske
You should have just listened to me.....remove the studs with a vise grip. E-Z
Originally Posted by vboy425
do you what are the torque spec for each bolts and studs?