I had a slight tick on and off. I soak the lifters in oil before re-installing them...
Due to high lift cams and high redline limitier settings, it's not uncommon to damage a lifter. Worst case scenario, the car lacks some power.
I went with some solid lifters to handle the high RPM abuse the engine is going to see. I am rebuilding my engine now.
New head components along with the solid lifters will help with 10,000 RPM limited runs.

 

UPDATE:

I dropped off my car a week back for a proper reinstallation of the cams. Seeing how much effort was involved in opening the head, I figured wth and decided to get the head done once and for all.

As such, I had a HKS headgasket, HKS springs, ARP headstuds installed, had the valved reground to seat nicely, and had the head port and polished. The installer remeasured clearances and did the reinstallation on a completely cold engine block.

All the lifters were fine, so the ticking was caused by something other than faulty lifters. After all that was said and done, I tracked the car the very next day, and even after 20 hot laps, the engine made nothing more than the usual sounds.

 

I have a super tick on my car from the cams you can hear it on the video.

 

good to know also that your lifters where fine just as mine...

 

what video?
wheres the link?

 

There's probably more than one cause of the ticking. Lifters are one, but what are the others?

 

Here it is and check my other videos some dyno runs.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1FXcR_dKNcw

 

Old, awesome none-the-less.

Will be doing my S1 install once my cams get here. These write-ups will help considerably.

I'll have to try n take some pics for an IX guide.

Can't wait.

 

how and where do u bleed the lifters???

 

My site was down for a couple months due to a redesign. Everything is back up now, but a lot of the URL's have changed slightly. Here's the link for the lifter bleeding procedure:

http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/cams...ftlifters.html

Joe
www.joe250.com

 

okay I went to get my car dynoed and they changed my timing belt. I had already installed my cams. After they where done they told me that they thought I had rod knock. I had never heard the noise before and it was very slight. I drove home and I couldn't hear the noise anymore. There where no filings in my oil pan either. I took the rod bearings out and they are fine. I just now found this post and I'm wondering if this could be my problem? Does it sound like a very slight tick? Could the shop have been mistaken?

 

bleed the lifters

 

Sorry for bumping old thread but i need to install new cams and just found procedure in SM. That says that lash adjusters have to be filled with diesel fuel before install. here is procedure go to number 8 and 9.

1. Prepare three containers and approximately five liters of diesel fuel. Pour into each container the diesel fuel in an amount enough for a lash adjuster placed in the container in its upright position to completely submerge.

2. Place the lash adjuster in container A and wash its outside surface.
NOTE: Use a nylon brush if there are hard-to-remove deposits.

3. While gently pushing the internal steel ball using the special tool MD998442, move the plunger in and out 5 − 10 times to eliminate stiffness in the plunger and expel contaminated oil.
NOTE: The plunger must be free from jamming and any other abnormalities. If a defect is found in plunger operation, replace the lash adjuster.

4. Take the lash adjuster out of the container, then move the plunger by pushing the steel ball gently to discharge the diesel fuel from the pressure chamber.

5. Soak the lash adjuster in the diesel fuel in container B. Move the plunger in and out 5 − 10 times by gently pushing the internal steel ball using the special tool MD998442 until the plunger moves smoothly to wash the lash adjuster’s pressure chamber.

6. Take the lash adjuster out of the container, then move the plunger by pushing the steel ball gently to discharge the diesel fuel from the pressure chamber.
CAUTION
Do not use container C for cleaning. If cleaning is performed in container C, foreign matter could enter the pressure chamber when the chamber is filled with diesel fuel.

7. Soak the lash adjuster in the diesel fuel in container C. Gently push the internal steel ball using the special tool MD998442.

8. Place the lash adjuster upright with the plunger at the top. Push the plunger firmly until it makes a full stroke, then return the plunger slowly and release the hold of the steel ball to allow the pressure chamber to be filled with diesel fuel.

9. Take the lash adjuster out of the container, place it upright with the plunger at the top, and push the plunger firmly. The plunger must not move at all.
NOTE: If the lash adjuster contracts, perform the operations 7 through 9 again. Replace the lash adjuster if it still contracts even after the pressure chamber has completely been
Filled with diesel fuel (air has been bled).

10. Keep the serviced lash adjusters in their upright positions to prevent diesel fuel from spilling out. Protect them from dust or other foreign matter. Install the lash adjusters onto the engine as soon as possible.

 

^ Sounds like an unnecessary PITA.

LOL at special tool MD998442. Use a freaking paper clip or better yet a small allen key.

 

I know that i don't need special tool i used small dill bit of needed diameter. But as i said there is contradictory info here. People in this thread was saying to leave adjusters without oil. But in SM it says to fill them with diesel fuel!!!

SO what is the right procedure??