That is the rumor, and from what Ive seen theyre pretty cheap. Jackson Auto Machine (JAM) also sells "non-tapping" lifters for $160.

 

I'm thinking of picking up the Jackson set myself...

 

i installed Edwins cams and bled the lifters. They ticked bad. He was pissed so he ordered a set of jackson lifters. We followed the install instructions to the letter. Still ticked like crazy. Makes me wonder if it isnt somthing else. I didnt bleed mine and they are quiet like stock......maybe look into those new solid adjustable ones??!! dont know......RRR

 

im having a cam install soon i was going to see how bad the cams tick, the shop that installs the cams says they dont bleed the lifters since their hydraulic whatever that means. But he experience little to no ticking on his own evo that was installed with cams so cam tick cant be linked to bleeding or not bleeding the lifters if so many people that bleed them still get the tick and some people that dont bleed dont get the tick. How much of a hassle is it to put in the jackson lifters after doing a cam install?

 

I am not an expert but all I can say is that at least the factory service manual instructs to bleed, rinse 3X with fresh diesel fuel, and service the lash adjusters (lifters) with eng oil prior to reinstalling them.

Wish you luck if you decide not to have the procedure done.

And, it is a quick and easy process to bleed them, just don't drop them.

 

so after all that im guessing you dont have any cam tick? Its not that i dont wanna do it but the people installing are telling me its not neccessary :| no idea guess ill go check out some other places for an install and see what they say.

 

I got the same problem too, the ticking noise is pretty loud after I put in my HKS 264/264 cams. Is it suppose to be?

 

I used GSC cams, and I bled the lifters. I can only here it tick when it first warms up.

 

Here's my story:

I had HKS 272s installed 2 weeks back. No ticking (I didn't notice any), cam gears set at +2 intake, -1 exhaust, idling is fine, exhaust rumble is stable

Last week, I get the itch and change my cam gear settings to -4/-1. Ticking starts and drives me nuts. We did not open up the head to bleed the lifters, just adjusted the cam gears, and that was it.

Yesterday, after a 200 mile drive, ticking did not go away, and I suspected problem with the lifters or rockers.

Today, had enough of ticking, sent the car in to the garage to have the cam gears adjusted back to +2/-1, but ticking persists. Had the mechanic open up the head and rebleed every lifter.

I was there to see the whole procedure. Each lifter was removed, bled, washed in petrol, dried, tested (we were able to compress the lifter fine), re-oiled, and re-inserted back into the engine. We also checked the rockers and all were fine. Cam gear settings checked at +2/-1, but ticking still there.

Did the 'rev the engine to 3000 rpm and lift off' procedure, but ticking would not go away. Idling is still stable (no fluctations), but exhaust sounds more rumbly and unstable. Again, idling RPM is completely stable within normal range.

I pulled the battery, reset the throttle body position (by reconnecting the battery after 10 minutes, depressing the accelerator completely, turning on the igntion without cranking, waited for the buzzing sounds to stop, let off the accelerator and turned off the ignition), then cranked the engine and left the car to idle for half an hour after that.

Ticking still would not go away.

Suspected something wrong, and decided to reload a map that gave me great results (see https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=74284&page=15 for the maps). Did a datalog run on 3rd gear, and fed the results back into DLL, only to find that power has dropped significantly from 372 hp and 356 lb/ft of tq to 354 hp and 344 lb/ft of tq.

Local installer/garage assures me that the ticking sound is not the valve hitting the piston. Goodness knows what it is, but it's probably from the lifters not being refilled with oil yet. Am advised to drive the car for another 500 km which should solve the problem. Another fellow forumer from Dubai advises me to let the car idle for 45 minutes.

Question 1: Will the ticking sound go away eventually? I've done around 50km on the car since the completion of the reinstallation of the cams so far.

Question 2: Same cam gear settings, different power and torque. Pretty much the same environmental factors. Why the loss of power? Did I break something in my engine?

 

Cam gear settings should have no effect on lifter tick, so that was probably just a coincidence. The power can move around like that from different cam gear settings. Did you have the same setting for both runs? Were the pulls in the same place? Going a little up or down hill can make a big difference. Head wind?

 

the ticking noise is from the lifters due to the highlift from the cams they loose there oil pressure because of how mutch they ar depressed compared to stock cams. it wont purge the lifters at idle it needs a little bit more oil pressure a slight rev here and there and you will notice the ticking is gone. i have heard also that j.a.m. sells a set for evos for 160 also and so far i have heard good things about them.

 

Same map, same power, same ambient temps (largely), same road, different output. I'm well and truly baffled.

The Jackson 'no-tick' lifters are tempting. However, the problem here is that the ticking was not as pronounced as before (after that initial install, before I switched to -4/-1), and it is now, despite keeping everything else constant and doing a full reinstall of the cams and cam gears.

 

iam on the same boat as you i installed my cams 264/272 hks about a month ago didny hear any ticking what so ever then 3 weeks later it i hear the ticking when i installed my cams the 1st time i didnt bleed the lifters then when i started to hear the ticking noise i went back to check everything out the torque was ok on the cap bearings i took the lifters and check them and they all had pressure so i asume none of them was bad i bleeded them this time also i used plastigauge material to check the oil clearence in the cap bearings and noticed something peculiar but i dont know if its important that the capbearings that have the ticking noise has an oil clearence much bigger then the cap bearings that didnt have the noise i used a medical stetoscope to pin point the noise,so i decided to give it a little but more of torque to all the cap bearings i used 16.5lb compare to the 15lb of torque i installed everything back together and the noise is still there much less but still present also the ticking noise is only during warmup once the engine oil passes the 60celsius mark it wont tick none whatsoever.
me to iam thinking that the higher lift cams push out the oil out of the lifters iam also thinking on buying the JAM 3mm non ticking if anyone else has had experience with them please post also how many out there have only ticking noise during warmup of the engine?

 

my head just exploded... *kidding*

so you're saying that if you torqued the cap bearings 1.5 lbs higher, the ticking was less?

I swear, if that ticking doesn't go away soon, I'll drive the car off the nearest dock :P

 

dont do that unless you measure the oil clearence with plastigauge material we did it cause the tool we had to torque the caps wasnt very precise.

if your ticking doesnt go away when its fully warmed up then maybe you and most probably you have a bad lifter
my case is different i only get the ticking noise during warmup once the engine oil passes the 60celsius mark it dissapears,in my situation iam very confused.
the last thing i need to test is to buy the jamm lifters and install them and see if this helps maybe next month ill buy them i just need feedback from any members in here using this lifters??