Ok so I have an evo and its modded, i have a walboro fuel pump, 720 injectors, 272 cams set at -2 -2, Xede system wish X-flash which was tuned by Shiv personally, an hks racing suction kit, greddy type s blow off valve, 3 inch downpipe and catback exhaust, test pipe, hks gd max twin plate clutch.

Now the problem is my idle, granted i know in a modded car the idle is not going to be great but i think i might have an electrical problem because if i have the ac on my idle drops real low and will sometimes even stall the car out when standing still, however on with the ac off the idle will usually stay stable at about 1000 rpms however sometimes it does spike and stalls out here too......

anyways just thought i would ask and see if any of you guru's out there can tell what my problem is (other than just mods) and what you all suggest i do to fix this since i hate stalling out when at a red light or anytime i am standing still somewhere.

thanks

(PS If you are a mitsu rep or in any way affiliated with mitsubishi this story is a fiction of what i would like my car to be some day once i dont have a warranty anymore)

 

the a/c compressor takes alot of power, cams dont help with your idle.. so unless shiv did something and the idle stepper motor isnt functioning properly, well your stuck with it..

 

anyone else?

 

well i'll bump one more time to see if i can get another response, although i do want to thank dafarmer69 for his response.

 

I would try the stock airbox and see if the idle gets any better. Some cars really suffer with the intakes at some points.

 

Does it support/calibrated 720 cc injectors?

 

I had the 272's -2/-2 for 35 K miles, no stall problems, I now have the 280's and have stalled once. you can go in, or ask someone on here how to manually set up the throttle a little, so the rpm's are 300rpm's more at idle. Maybe a set screw somewhere? this should help. I had the same idle drop when turning on the AC also.

 

QATR very good point about the injectors, but GTVEVO raises a great point, I had the cone type-intake, and fried somehow my MAS, which in turn caused my car to burn super rich, and would always stall till I got the new MAS! Its been so ling ago, I almost forgot it would always stall, was told it was in "limp-home" mode! Have the dealer check the MUD? (or something like this) as to its signal strength! good luck!

 

Ground kit would help improve the idle a little bit. It will be noticeable. Also made a difference in my throttle response. I was running a POS K&N Intake when I had idle probs. My Injen intake runs way better. Never stalled yet.

 

yes i have a grounding kit which seemed to help it a bit, dont think i have my stock airbox anymore and if i do i know i am missing some pieces, might have to order a new one from mitsu or just wait and buy one on here, also where can i have my MAS checked to see if its working correctly? I would rather not take it to a mitsubishi dealership unless something is wrong due to their part (such as broken power windows or something that cant be my fault at all)

 

The solution may be to adjust your fuel trims with an OBD II scanner. It can make a big difference. It did on my car.

 

Its amazing how out of whack I see fuel trims on most modified cars.. the closer you can get your long term fuel trims to within +/- 10% the better the car will run and mroe stable it will run, additionally you may have to raise the idle speed a bit.

Normal MAF reading for a stock car is 30-36hz (if you can see that on the xede) If your injectors were already scaled by your xflash then that is the reading, if they were not, then you have to scale it yourself, so you need to read your fuel trims, and then reduce the signal from 0rpm-1500rpm (progressively) so your trims hover around where I mentioned earlier.

Lumpy cams do lower engine vacuum, so you may have to raise your idle speed slightly..

Again, if you can get your long term fuel trims within 10% the car should run very stable even at lower idle speeds..