A few times, yeah. I occasionally launched poorly and burned it a little. Same on the stocker. Out of 10 launches, usually 1 is a little too aggressive and results in a clutch burn.

 

Actually, the price difference is closer to $800. If you can get an ACT installed for $800, you can get the Exedy Twin installed for close to $1600. Any they are not really pushing the most expensive clutch, the Exedy Twin is a mid-priced clutch, with the ACT being one of the cheapest and the twin carbons being the most expensive. Also, the twin includes a lighter flywheel, if you want that in addition to the ACT, you'll be closer to $1150 installed, using your initial price of $800 without the flywheel. I've pretty much decided that if/when I upgrade my clutch it will be an Exedy Twin. They drive great and don't have the issues that occasionally arise with the ACT.

-Paul

 

I second what he said because I have driven his car. The Cusco twin in his car is better then my stock clutch in my car!
I have also driven a car with an ACT and not knowing it was in there I thought there was something wrong with his clutch (thinking it was stock).

He is recommending it for a good reason. A clutch install is a clutch install, if the customer wants to put an ACT in so be it. That just means he will get paid twice when the customer changes to a Exedy.

 

You haven't driven my car? My act shifts ok, not perfect but it works fine and never has hurt my 1/4 mile times.

 

I did say a few things that could help in this case my dear. If you had look passed your anger, I did subjested a couple of good clutch brands and mentioned what could be the cause/problem. The statements were good; "Funny" to some, helpfull to others.
I went tru 3 ACT's in my 98 GST and 4 ClutchMasters Level 4. So I feel for you guys. Hell, I got 21K on my stock Evo clutch. I make 327 whp and 378 Tq. in a Mustang Dyno. So I know I will soon be facing the same problem. I know the clutch could go at any time now. So I too am looking for options. Good luck to all of you.

 

Uh that quote is what you said above. What do mean you have no problem??

I am not saying the clutch is no good, just at 7000+ RPM in a drag race you will get lockout. If you want to race a lot then go with a twin disk. I have no problem with the ACT on the street but everyone goes to the track sooner or later and then complains that the ACT doesn't shift.

 

I shift at 8200 sometimes but I try to get it under 7900, it has NEVER given me an issue in the 1/4 mile.


My issue is right when I start the cold car. 2nd is 100% locked out. I have to go to 1st to third and then back to 2nd, after that it is fine. Ben like that since I got it. During the winter it is terrible but as soon as it is warmed up, it is butter

 

Well! I must be misunderstood your comparison sample. I was not angry or anything but just like saying thing straight out. I went throught 2 ACTs too but the hassle of figure out what went wrong is much more frustrating. Thank and be cool man.

 

that sounds like a problem with your tranny fluild. Which one do you use btw? Can you pm me the info? Thanks.

 

i f***ing hate lock out. it spoils all the fun and makes u look like an a$$ in front of everyone.

 

Install price remains the same.
I am suggesting to end the headaches by memebers of this forum.

 

Stock fluid. I mean once it is warmed up, and that is about 50 feet down the road during the summer. It goes like this. As soon as I start the car I row around the gears to get things losened up. I also park in gear. As soon as I go from reverse to 1st, and then if I try 2nd it is like the gear is not there, then I put it in third and then back to 2nd, it is there, and that is the end of my issue.

During the winter my car even wants to creep foward out of gear the fluid is so thick. AS soon as it warms up it is fine.

Again a clucth costs $1,800 I can't afford that, not at all.

 

Heres my .02

it's not the clutch. I drive an ACT and i shift at 7800 almost every single day. Sometimes i miss a shift, sometimes i dont. Most of the time when ido, i realize that it's driver error and i was tyrying to shift TOO fast, or trying to FORCE it into gear. I used to have a massive problem hitting the 1-2 shift at anything over 7200 rpm, now i hit it perfect every single time. then i moved to having a problem with the 2-3 shift and realized that i was trying to force it into gear. I would think to my self PUT it in gear dont force it, and guess what...problem went away. I have had a problem since i bought the car with the 3-4 shift, but i rarely encounter it anymore.

This is a problem with the driver IMO. Maybe the twin disk allows for a bit more room for error, but i guess that since the pressure plate on the ACT is so stiff that the actual time between letting the clutch out and the pressure plate actually clamping down is maybe a bit quicker than those with a softer pressure plate.

another thing to consider, if you are using the stock clutch line AND restrictor with the ACT pressure plate you are pretty much asking for problems. The stock clutch line is freaking rubber, and you are now using a MUCH heavier pressure plate. When you depress the clutch you are going to have more backpressure in your clutch line than before, this means disengagement wont happen as fast, and it happens even slower when the stupid restrictor is in.

just a bit of food for thought from someone who has experience with this clutch, and racing.

with my ACT i shift faster than you can think.

 

not for nothing but that has ZERO to do with your fluid...you could run the thickest fluid known to man in there and the car will not creep forward when it's out of gear unless it truly is not out of gear. This is a VERY common issue on Mitsubishi's (as well as on some Toyota's, like the Mr2 and Celica All Trac), where the slave is improperly adjusted and as a result, the clutch never is fully releasing. The "thickness of the fluid" will not keep a car in gear. Also tends to cause issues with high rpm shifting as well (frequent grinds). Over time, the grinding happens more and more because the synchro is wearing out....and finally is gone.

Another thing to consider too is what was posted above...the clutch line. I've noticed dramatically improved shifter feel with a stainless line vs the stock rubber one, once it is properly bled. Cannot comment on the restrictor, as I have never bothered with removing them, andwas always advised (by many a DSM person way back in the day), to leave it alone unless I was dragging the car all the time.

Now, it could all be for naught, and could come down to being some sort of clutch issue afterall. I think what the guys who are exhibiting the issue need to do is a start a poll of all their particulars. What clutch, miles on that clutch, what fluid, stainless clutch line vs non, restrictor in vs out, drag use, street use, where the slave is adjusted to (can be measured on the rod) and where the problem occurs (rpm wise, etc), if there is any problem at all. I am sure that will help narrow down the most likely culprit(s)

 

I appreciate the info Adam but why is it only when the car is ICE cold, and I mean 20 or below outside, and as SOON as the car is warmed up the car no longer acts like this. I believe there was a thread that infact this is caused by the fluid actually turning the tntire gear box as it goes away after warm up.


I have a clucth line, it REALLY makes a big difference? DO I have to drain the fluid to get it on? Do I have to remove the restrictor to install it? If what you are saying about my clutch is true, how do I fix it?


Thanks