cheapest way into the 11s (my idea)
Cheapest? Under a 100$ easy ... With YOUR car of course.
1. Remove AC, interior, trunk
2. learn to drive w/o lifting or call a ringer like Curt Brown
3. VP import race gas
4. MBC... or for the cheapo record pull the vacum line of the WG actuator.
5. drop the exhaust after DP.
1. Remove AC, interior, trunk
2. learn to drive w/o lifting or call a ringer like Curt Brown
3. VP import race gas
4. MBC... or for the cheapo record pull the vacum line of the WG actuator.
5. drop the exhaust after DP.
have you tried shifting to 5th warr? not right at the line, but maybe a bit early, at like 7300?
i can't wait to get to the track at some sub 70 temps...around 50 is best. Im going back next weekend...we'll see what happens then.
Im just going to unplug the alky kit, as i don't imagine it'll do me much good with c16, but it might for cooling factor.
Im going to hate to try and tune at the track, but i can't waste 10 bucks a gallon on c16 otherwise.
i can't wait to get to the track at some sub 70 temps...around 50 is best. Im going back next weekend...we'll see what happens then.
Im just going to unplug the alky kit, as i don't imagine it'll do me much good with c16, but it might for cooling factor.
Im going to hate to try and tune at the track, but i can't waste 10 bucks a gallon on c16 otherwise.
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
We'll see what happens tomorrow night, though, during test'n'tune. We're getting low 60-degree temps, and I can currently shift at any rpm, so we'll see what happens when I have straight 110oct instead of a 50/50 mix along with cool temps. I will still be limited by the stock gearing, but maybe I can make up a little ground due to the other factors.
Originally Posted by wingless
Cheapest? Under a 100$ easy ... With YOUR car of course.
1. Remove AC, interior, trunk
2. learn to drive w/o lifting or call a ringer like Curt Brown
3. VP import race gas
4. MBC... or for the cheapo record pull the vacum line of the WG actuator.
5. drop the exhaust after DP.
1. Remove AC, interior, trunk
2. learn to drive w/o lifting or call a ringer like Curt Brown
3. VP import race gas
4. MBC... or for the cheapo record pull the vacum line of the WG actuator.
5. drop the exhaust after DP.
Originally Posted by anjapower
Holy Crap....
What did you trap with cams in?
Mods?
What did you trap with cams in?
Mods?
AS for cheapest mods to go 11's in a full weight evo:
3" Exhaust
Walbro pump
1G DSM bov
Hallman MBC
ACT Clutch
NOS single fogger wet kit
Racegas
AFC or reflash to fine tune
I think anyone could go solid 11's run after run. The basic mods should make the car run mid to low 12's if driven and tuned well. A 50 shot of nitrous would put it into the 11's. once you get a handle on the tuning/driving, bump the shot to 100hp and see some 11.3-11.5s.
your never going to touch those times with cams, fmic, ic pipes, turbo upgrades for the same $650 price. ($550 kit + $40 bottle fill + $40 pressure gauge + $20 for jets)
It should be a law that anytime someone asks "what's the cheapest way to go XXX fast?" that nitrous is part of the answer!
3" Exhaust
Walbro pump
1G DSM bov
Hallman MBC
ACT Clutch
NOS single fogger wet kit
Racegas
AFC or reflash to fine tune
I think anyone could go solid 11's run after run. The basic mods should make the car run mid to low 12's if driven and tuned well. A 50 shot of nitrous would put it into the 11's. once you get a handle on the tuning/driving, bump the shot to 100hp and see some 11.3-11.5s.
your never going to touch those times with cams, fmic, ic pipes, turbo upgrades for the same $650 price. ($550 kit + $40 bottle fill + $40 pressure gauge + $20 for jets)
It should be a law that anytime someone asks "what's the cheapest way to go XXX fast?" that nitrous is part of the answer!
Last edited by DSMotorsport; Sep 29, 2005 at 12:30 PM.
Originally Posted by DSMotorsport
AS for cheapest mods to go 11's in a full weight evo:
3" Exhaust
Walbro pump
1G DSM bov
Hallman MBC
ACT Clutch
NOS single fogger wet kit
Racegas
AFC or reflash to fine tune
I think anyone could go solid 11's run after run. The basic mods should make the car run mid to low 12's if driven and tuned well. A 50 shot of nitrous would put it into the 11's. once you get a handle on the tuning/driving, bump the shot to 100hp and see some 11.3-11.5s.
your never going to touch those times with cams, fmic, ic pipes, turbo upgrades for the same $650 price. ($550 kit + $40 bottle fill + $40 pressure gauge + $20 for jets)
It should be a law that anytime someone asks "what's the cheapest way to go XXX fast?" that nitrous is part of the answer!
3" Exhaust
Walbro pump
1G DSM bov
Hallman MBC
ACT Clutch
NOS single fogger wet kit
Racegas
AFC or reflash to fine tune
I think anyone could go solid 11's run after run. The basic mods should make the car run mid to low 12's if driven and tuned well. A 50 shot of nitrous would put it into the 11's. once you get a handle on the tuning/driving, bump the shot to 100hp and see some 11.3-11.5s.
your never going to touch those times with cams, fmic, ic pipes, turbo upgrades for the same $650 price. ($550 kit + $40 bottle fill + $40 pressure gauge + $20 for jets)
It should be a law that anytime someone asks "what's the cheapest way to go XXX fast?" that nitrous is part of the answer!
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
No, it should be a law that nitrous is not allowed in the conversation. We're talking real mods here...
Not a real mod? ok, Ill imagine the nitrous, you pretend it's not there. nitrous user will still spend less and smoke you down the track.
you can also get around the racegas by doing something pretty trick. Run an off the shelf alky kit, and plumb the -4 alky line into the fuel side of the nitrous fogger. Roughly double the jet size of the recomended fuel jet to account for the stoich change of meth vs gas. Run the 50 shot with pumpgas in the tank.
use the pressure switch on the alky kit pump to ground the relay that activates the nitrous solonoids. This keeps the nitrous from coming on untill the alky is flowing. Also failsafes if the pump clogs/breaks.
you get the octane/fuel advantage of meth, and don't have to screw with your tune/boost to make use of it. simple on/off switch.
use the pressure switch on the alky kit pump to ground the relay that activates the nitrous solonoids. This keeps the nitrous from coming on untill the alky is flowing. Also failsafes if the pump clogs/breaks.
you get the octane/fuel advantage of meth, and don't have to screw with your tune/boost to make use of it. simple on/off switch.
im a nitrous noob, really. can you run nitrous and lots of boost and timing? i mean, what can you replace on my list with the nitrous? cams? i guess thats teh only thing i could fathom.
Originally Posted by DSMotorsport
you can also get around the racegas by doing something pretty trick. Run an off the shelf alky kit, and plumb the -4 alky line into the fuel side of the nitrous fogger. Roughly double the jet size of the recomended fuel jet to account for the stoich change of meth vs gas. Run the 50 shot with pumpgas in the tank.
use the pressure switch on the alky kit pump to ground the relay that activates the nitrous solonoids. This keeps the nitrous from coming on untill the alky is flowing. Also failsafes if the pump clogs/breaks.
you get the octane/fuel advantage of meth, and don't have to screw with your tune/boost to make use of it. simple on/off switch.
use the pressure switch on the alky kit pump to ground the relay that activates the nitrous solonoids. This keeps the nitrous from coming on untill the alky is flowing. Also failsafes if the pump clogs/breaks.
you get the octane/fuel advantage of meth, and don't have to screw with your tune/boost to make use of it. simple on/off switch.
coudn't you just run the 'gas' line for the nitrous wet kit directly to a meth kit, and not spray any gasoline in with it at all? or a nice tank where you can pre-mix c16 and meth...could that work>?
Originally Posted by gsujeff55
im a nitrous noob, really. can you run nitrous and lots of boost and timing? i mean, what can you replace on my list with the nitrous? cams? i guess thats teh only thing i could fathom.
you can run the nitrous on top of your normal full boost with slight timing retard. a 50 shot requires almost nothing for timing map change, 100shot needs about 2-3* taken out. Your AFC or reflash can accomplish this. Your AFC even has 2 maps, use one for when the nitrous is on, one for normal use.
If you run racegas, you can run the 100 shot with no timing retard on top of all the boost your stock turbo can make.


