cheapest way into the 11s (my idea)
yea and they'll smoke their motors twice as fast^. its obvious that the conversation is about a daily driving 11 second car........lets see you use nitrous every day to go to work, back, store, and just fun driving. stop talking about ignorance and think about what you write...
Originally Posted by gsujeff55
answer my post above and:
coudn't you just run the 'gas' line for the nitrous wet kit directly to a meth kit, and not spray any gasoline in with it at all? or a nice tank where you can pre-mix c16 and meth...could that work>?
coudn't you just run the 'gas' line for the nitrous wet kit directly to a meth kit, and not spray any gasoline in with it at all? or a nice tank where you can pre-mix c16 and meth...could that work>?
All are easily solved with a little reasearch and brain usage.
What that would basicly account for, if the meth pump is big enough, is you run pumpgas in the tank, and turn on the bottle, possibly swap AFC to Map #2, and put in 100whp when your throttle gets open.
Originally Posted by Nez136
yea and they'll smoke their motors twice as fast^. its obvious that the conversation is about a daily driving 11 second car........lets see you use nitrous every day to go to work, back, store, and just fun driving. stop talking about ignorance and think about what you write...
Stupid people smoke thier motors twice as fast on nitrous becuase they are tuning, installing, or using thier parts incorrectly. A bottle of oxydizer can do no more to harm your engine than a boost controller, becuase they both do the same thing. They increase o2 getting to the engine. If used unwisely, yeah, blown up. Do you blame a MBC for bad tuning? Don't blame a gas becuase someone didn' follow instructions or think.
If you want to run 11's everyday or have 11 second capable power, every single time you put the throttle down on pumpgas, then I concede, nitrous is not the answer.
If you want to run 11's at the track with the least investment, it IS. You justmay not want to see it like it is.
Originally Posted by Nez136
yea and they'll smoke their motors twice as fast^. its obvious that the conversation is about a daily driving 11 second car........lets see you use nitrous every day to go to work, back, store, and just fun driving. stop talking about ignorance and think about what you write...
topic of thread says cheapest to 11s. you can have a daily driven 11sec car, not that hard....but def harder, due to octane and exhaust.
Originally Posted by gsujeff55
so, for a 50 shot we don't need any timing retard at all? just strap up a 50 shot with window switch and go? on pump fuel, right?
yes, you want to have a fuel pump upgrade.
i said pump fuel, not fuel pump...LOL
what about on 26psi....currently 11.4 afr with 93+alky and slightly advanced over stock timing?
i could still strap up a 50 shot and go? with that amount of boost?
what about on 26psi....currently 11.4 afr with 93+alky and slightly advanced over stock timing?
i could still strap up a 50 shot and go? with that amount of boost?
Originally Posted by gsujeff55
i said pump fuel, not fuel pump...LOL
what about on 26psi....currently 11.4 afr with 93+alky and slightly advanced over stock timing?
i could still strap up a 50 shot and go? with that amount of boost?
what about on 26psi....currently 11.4 afr with 93+alky and slightly advanced over stock timing?
i could still strap up a 50 shot and go? with that amount of boost?
If you are spraying alky, that takes care of your octane/timing issues. Put the boost down to 22psi when you first start to tune it. Run your alky kit full blast, and spray the 50 shot. If you have no timing pulled due to knock, start adding boost back in. Most likely, you will be able to get real close to the tune you had before adding the nitrous, but better to start off safe and work back up. That's how to NOT smoke your motor.
Originally Posted by DSMotorsport
AHAHA That was funny. I normally agree with you on most things, as you do know your way down the dragstrip, but that comment was about the most ignorant thing I have heard from you.
Not a real mod? ok, Ill imagine the nitrous, you pretend it's not there. nitrous user will still spend less and smoke you down the track.
Not a real mod? ok, Ill imagine the nitrous, you pretend it's not there. nitrous user will still spend less and smoke you down the track.
Just because you know how to use nitrous on a daily basis without blowing your motor or launching the intake manifold through the hood (as I've seen on many occasions in person at the track), it doesn't mean the rest of us have a freakin clue or that we should even begin to consider doing such an ill-advised thing. Just look at all of gsujeff's questions...that alone is proof that nitrous is not a feasible variable in this equation. Let's try to stick to "real" mods that anyone and everyone can do without specialized knowledge and one-use application.
Hey fellas,
Interested in seeing what you think my car will be capable of in the coming month.
I currently have Buschur stage 1&2 on the car set for 19psi of boost
*Car dyno'ed at 270whp and 246wtq on a dynojet.
BR Magnaflow 3 inch exhaust
MBC
1G BOV
BR Intake
BR Upper intercooling piping
S-AFC
Buschur flash
BR Mini battery kit
BR MAF pipe kit
I am having the following installed on the car within the next month.
1) Full White Rabbit turbo
2) Alky kit - set at 10psi
3) * NEW* Exedy twin disk
4) Custom cams
5) Ecutech custom tune - 25psi of boost - two-step set for 5,500 rpm
6) Exhaust - Jun Bl Titanium
7) Walbro 255 fuel pump
8) Injectors - 660's or slightly bigger
* Goal is for 400whp and 400wtq
Additional mods include - BR adjustable rear swaybar, Mitsubishi brake cooling kit,
Mitsubishi Rear strut brace, Cusco Type 2 front lower tie bar, S2000 antena, IPT Dash kit
Let me know what you guys think about 1/4 times and power numbers! Thanks for responding!
Interested in seeing what you think my car will be capable of in the coming month.
I currently have Buschur stage 1&2 on the car set for 19psi of boost
*Car dyno'ed at 270whp and 246wtq on a dynojet.
BR Magnaflow 3 inch exhaust
MBC
1G BOV
BR Intake
BR Upper intercooling piping
S-AFC
Buschur flash
BR Mini battery kit
BR MAF pipe kit
I am having the following installed on the car within the next month.
1) Full White Rabbit turbo
2) Alky kit - set at 10psi
3) * NEW* Exedy twin disk
4) Custom cams
5) Ecutech custom tune - 25psi of boost - two-step set for 5,500 rpm
6) Exhaust - Jun Bl Titanium
7) Walbro 255 fuel pump
8) Injectors - 660's or slightly bigger
* Goal is for 400whp and 400wtq
Additional mods include - BR adjustable rear swaybar, Mitsubishi brake cooling kit,
Mitsubishi Rear strut brace, Cusco Type 2 front lower tie bar, S2000 antena, IPT Dash kit
Let me know what you guys think about 1/4 times and power numbers! Thanks for responding!
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
How is it ignorant? It's an opinion. Nitrous is not a real mod; it's a cheat mod. It should only be used by (and suggested for) real race cars who are trying to actually win drag racing events or to spool up a large turbo. It is not a feasible mod for the general populace in the pursuit of 11s. Whereas gsujeff may only want to talk about using C16 at $10/gal, I'm talking about using 100/104/110 at $5/gal, which is not a lot more than 93oct at the pump and that is very feasible for daily use (much like meth).
Just because you know how to use nitrous on a daily basis without blowing your motor or launching the intake manifold through the hood (as I've seen on many occasions in person at the track), it doesn't mean the rest of us have a freakin clue or that we should even begin to consider doing such an ill-advised thing. Just look at all of gsujeff's questions...that alone is proof that nitrous is not a feasible variable in this equation. Let's try to stick to "real" mods that anyone and everyone can do without specialized knowledge and one-use application.
Just because you know how to use nitrous on a daily basis without blowing your motor or launching the intake manifold through the hood (as I've seen on many occasions in person at the track), it doesn't mean the rest of us have a freakin clue or that we should even begin to consider doing such an ill-advised thing. Just look at all of gsujeff's questions...that alone is proof that nitrous is not a feasible variable in this equation. Let's try to stick to "real" mods that anyone and everyone can do without specialized knowledge and one-use application.
I have sold many nitrous kits, just about every single one went on someones everyday driver. I was able to expain to most of them the basics of running it by simply going over the instruction manual and offering some basic first hand experience. I could teach you, Warrtalon, how to install/run/tune a nitrous kit in about 20 minutes of face to face conversation. Trust me, you would be a convert when you car goes 11.4 from 12.0 that easily.
I have had one customer pop a motor while running a bottle, but it was becuase of a FPR failure going down the track. His engine would have blown up with the nitrous or without, as it went lean when the fuel pressure went from 70psi to 40.
Id like to ask you 2 questions:
#1...How do you know how to adjust your AFC and MBC without blowing up your motor? They are FAR FAR more complex than tuning a nitrous kit. 2 jets and bottle pressure/fuel pressure are the variables. The information on nitrous tuning and use has been out there for 30 years, far longer than piggyback efi tuning. Why can't anyone who is able to tune and not blow up their motor with an AFC and MBC, not tune 2 mechanical jets and watch the bottle pressure gauge. This "specialized knowledge" is well within the scope of the everyday enthusiast, not a valid arguement. Sorry.
#2 Why are your "proofs" that nitrous is bad blowing up thier motors and having backfires? A: They are tuning the A/F ratio too lean or have not followed the directions in the installation manual that comes with every kit. B: The ign timing is too high or octane too low. C: They are blowing up intakes becuase of too low RPM use, non-maintenanced solenoids, or leaks. D: They missed a shift on a car that has a fuel cut rev limit, without an rpm window switch, causing a backfire. None of these are the fault of the kit, they are the fault of the user not following the information that IS IN THE BOX. USER ERROR IS NOT THE FAULT OF THE PRODUCT.
I would also like to apologize to the thread starter for the off topic hijack. I didn't intend to start a big arguement about nitrous. I just have to defend against perpetuation of internet myth.
I'm also sorry you wasted all that time typing that stuff. What you fail to realize (due to my not explaining properly?) is that you are very wrong in thinking that I'd be a convert when I go from 12.0 to 11.4, or whatever, because I have no respect for someone who uses nitrous, nor do I pay any attention to anyone's accomplishments that were done due to nitrous. It is not an acceptable or respected form of horsepower in my opinion, and yes it is dangerous, regardless of your experience level. It is by no means feasible for daily driving.




