Yes and Yes

 

The Evo head bolts up fine to the 4G64 block, but the deck height is like 9mm higher or something like that.

 

WAIT A SECOND! The Evo head will NOT bolt up to a regular DSM 6 bolt but it will bolt up fine to a 4g64? So the Evo tranny mates perfectly to the 4g64 as well? THIS IS INCREDIBLE! I can pull these 4g64 blocks for $100.00 a pop at my junkyard! I always thought that because that everything is backwards on the Evo (timing is on the left, tranny is on the right, when facing the engine) that the older 4g64 and 4g63 blocks wouldn't mount properly. So you guys are saying there are NO engine mounts, tranny mounting, or any type of bizarre fitment issues at all?

 

But I am pretty sure the block has to be from a car with the same orientation, like a 99-03 Galant DE/ES or a 00-05 Eclipse RS/GS.

They do make a factory 4G64T, so perhaps it has oil squirters already installed, but it comes only in a JDM Delica, so I doubt $200 will source one. Probably no added benefit of going to the trouble of getting one, but you never know.

 

I thought the 3g eclipses use a V6? I know some of the galants used the 4g64 blocks. Can anyone elaborate on this?

 

Yea what cars are the 4g64 from that you can use in this set-up?

 

3G Eclipses come in 4cylinder too. Some Galants are V6's. That's why I gave you the model nomenclature. Eclipse RS/GS, Galant DE/ES. Some Galant LS's are 4cylinders, except for the one's that say V6 on the side.

Note my edit. I do not know if the current 4G69 blocks in the 4G Eclipse and 9G Galant will work.

 

I think there are a few hyundai's that also use the mitsubishi 4g64 block

 

roadrace service does this in the 2.4s they build.

that said... no oil squirters and a high rev without hte oil pump work... i think you're asking for trouble..... but that's my opinion.

 

Here is a question for all of these people w/ built motors. How is oil consumption?? I understand tolerances have to be a bit more loose due to the extra expansion of forged components, but combine that w/ these high rpm runs, it would seem like these built motors DRINK oil. IMO, I wouldn't want a motor that I had to put a 1qt of oil in every 1k miles. Is this a characteristic that a built motor can't overcome?

 

I think for the most part oil consumption is no better and no worse. While the forged pistons may expand at different rate than the cast iron, the oil control rings are are there to take up the extra "slack" and prevent too much blowby during engine startup. This probably also depends on how you drive. If you don't let the engine warm up all the way before you start driving really hard, I think you will definitely consume alot of oil.

 

I am picking up the block today from the machine shop but I won't be able to get it balanced until wednesday.

The shop quoted me 250 to balance the entire motor. I have never had an engine balanced so I am not sure if that is a good deal. He will be balancing it with the flywheel and preassure plate attached.

 

Been a little busy so I have not posted much info. I had to take my engine out this weekend so I could get the Flywheel/Clutch to the engine balancer. He needed Pistons, Rods, Crank, 1 Piston Ring, Bolts, Clutch/Flywheel, Harmonic Balancer, and the Crank Pulley. I will hopefully have it all back by Friday so I can assemble the block.

I have also decided to remove the oil squiters off of my 4g63 block and install them on the 4g64. I hope with a fully balanced bottom end, balance shafts removed, and oil squirters I will be able to rev safely to 10k. I will post pictures whenever I get the chance.

 

With that bottom end I see no reason why you wouldn't be able to rev to 10k.... can't wait to see your results man.

 

been looking on ebay for a cheap dry sump pump I am very tempted to put togther my own system. Only thing holding me back is that I have to have the engine in the car by this weekend