4g64 2.1L Build Up
Originally Posted by SuperHatch
A custom dry sump setup is not exactly something you'd want to rush... save that for a later upgrade.
Looking at prices I think I could build my own for under 1k. that will get its own thread pretty soon 
Originally Posted by joeymia
I hope with a fully balanced bottom end, balance shafts removed, and oil squirters I will be able to rev safely to 10k.
Furthermore, no matter how well the motor is built, assuming the valvetrain is stiff enough to be up to the task, the extremely high piston speeds won't do anything for long term reliability.
In short, spinning the motor like that again and again, especially with a daily driver, is the quickest means of getting to the next rebuild.
Originally Posted by Ted B
There isn't a reason in the world why one would want to spin the motor to 10k rpm unless he has a turbo that moves the optimum shift points well up in that direction. Optimum shift points for a stock turbo will barely come to 2000rpm lower than that figure.
Originally Posted by Ted B
Furthermore, no matter how well the motor is built, assuming the valvetrain is stiff enough to be up to the task, the extremely high piston speeds won't do anything for long term reliability.
Originally Posted by Ted B
In short, spinning the motor like that again and again, especially with a daily driver, is the quickest means of getting to the next rebuild.
Originally Posted by Ted B
What turbo is going in the car?
Which head?
Which cams?
Which intake?
Which head?
Which cams?
Which intake?
Almost 100% on the gt35r. Probally the kit from slowboyracing.
Head:
Just dual valve springs, titanium retainers and a small port job on the exhaust and intake side. Basically whatever I can do in my garage.
Cams:
HKS 280's right now and will see how they work. If possible I will try to get some Jun272's.
Intake?:
I would assume Intake Manifold... No plans on one yet but If I do get one it would most likely be the Magnus.
I seriously doubt such a setup will put you anywhere near requiring 10k rpm shift points. Shifting above the optimum point will only cause you to go slower. When you get your car finished and get dyno data, you can determine where the optimum shift points lie.
Go here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ghlight=points
Scroll down to post #10 and retrieve the zip file. This is how you determine your optimum shift points.
Go here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ghlight=points
Scroll down to post #10 and retrieve the zip file. This is how you determine your optimum shift points.
Originally Posted by Ted B
I seriously doubt such a setup will put you anywhere near requiring 10k rpm shift points. Shifting above the optimum point will only cause you to go slower. When you get your car finished and get dyno data, you can determine where the optimum shift points lie.
Go here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ghlight=points
Scroll down to post #10 and retrieve the zip file. This is how you determine your optimum shift points.
Go here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ghlight=points
Scroll down to post #10 and retrieve the zip file. This is how you determine your optimum shift points.
Originally Posted by joeymia
i am not looking to drastically change my shift points... I just want to be able to rev high safely if needed. For example not shifting out of 4th in the 1/4... going into a turn at the track... etc..
Understood, but consider that even a 130mph 1/4mi trap speed in 4th is still 'only' 8000rpm for an EVO8.
Anyone who goes through the hassle and expense of installing a better reciprocating assembly should build it to take whatever they can throw at it. All I'm saying is that it makes far more sense not to rev the motor any higher than absolutely necessary than otherwise - especially for a daily driver.
Anyone who goes through the hassle and expense of installing a better reciprocating assembly should build it to take whatever they can throw at it. All I'm saying is that it makes far more sense not to rev the motor any higher than absolutely necessary than otherwise - especially for a daily driver.
PHP Code:
Ok finally took the afternoon off work today to drop the motor off at the machine shop. They will be cleaning up the block, boring/honing (.20 over) the cylinders, and balancing the crank. All this for a grand total of .... 60 dollars.
That's sooo cheap, so cheap it's scary. 
Originally Posted by value
PHP Code:
Ok finally took the afternoon off work today to drop the motor off at the machine shop. They will be cleaning up the block, boring/honing (.20 over) the cylinders, and balancing the crank. All this for a grand total of .... 60 dollars.
That's sooo cheap, so cheap it's scary. Place is called Bird Road Machine Shop
The engine balancing is being done by
Messa Balancing
http://www.mesabalancing.com/
Of course final assembly will be done by me
