How many of you are running inline oil filter to your ball bearing turbo?
Jun 9, 2006, 10:45 AM
#1
How many of you are running inline oil filter to your ball bearing turbo?
I'm building a kit and I need to know if it is OK without one. I know that BB turbos are very sensitive to trash, but how many people actually use a filter? The FP unit is 70.00 and while I sure it a great device is it needed?
Jun 9, 2006, 01:36 PM
#6
I wish I had pics of all the little metal particles my filter trapped after the first 5000 miles. Ever hit a rock on a skateboard? Running a bb turbo without a filter is like buying a brand new sport bike and parking in front of your house every night without insurance. You have been warned.
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Jun 9, 2006, 02:09 PM
#8
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Use it. DBB turbos are VERY particular as far as oil and oil contamination. Check the filter at every oil change and/or clean/replace. Very little money to save a very expensive center section.
I have one on my Eclipse's FP3065 since i'm feeding the oil feed line off the head and i've had ZERO problems with it- been running it over two years now.
I have one on my Eclipse's FP3065 since i'm feeding the oil feed line off the head and i've had ZERO problems with it- been running it over two years now.
Jun 10, 2006, 05:54 AM
#10
I ran an AGP filter even on my conventional bushing turbo. As someone else pointed it, you'd be surprised what it will catch. I cleaned mine every other oil change. Cheap/easy insurance. It always makes me laugh when people will spend a couple grand on a turbo upgrade, then complain about spending the money for a filter 
Jun 10, 2006, 10:32 AM
#11
I have considered putting one on but my main concern is the oil pressure coming into the turbo, how do you test the pressure off the head? I know most people can test pressure off the oil filter housing, but from what I have heard the pressure is lower off the head, not sure by how much though. I wouldn't just slap one in and call it a day... find out if these filters have a restrictor coming in or out of the filter and somehow if someone can find out the oil pressure coming off the head test the pressure with and without the oil filter/restrictor, you may have to modify the restrictor to flow more/less depending on what center cartridge you are running.
Coming from Garrett's site:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech101.html
Oil & Water Plumbing
The intake and exhaust plumbing often receives the focus leaving the oil and water plumbing neglected.
Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.
Following a hot shutdown of a turbocharger, heat soak begins. This means that the heat in the head, exhaust manifold, and turbine housing finds it way to the turbo’s center housing, raising its temperature. These extreme temperatures in the center housing can result in oil coking.
To minimize the effects of heat soak-back, water-cooled center housings were introduced. These use coolant from the engine to act as a heat sink after engine shutdown, preventing the oil from coking. The water lines utilize a thermal siphon effect to reduce the peak heat soak-back temperature after key-off. The layout of the pipes should minimize peaks and troughs with the (cool) water inlet on the low side. To help this along, it is advantageous to tilt the turbocharger about 25° about the axis of shaft rotation.
Reduced Oil Flow – The ball bearing design reduces the required amount of oil required to provide adequate lubrication. This lower oil volume reduces the chance for seal leakage. Also, the ball bearing is more tolerant of marginal lube conditions, and diminishes the possibility of turbocharger failure on engine shut down.
Coming from Garrett's site:
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...o_tech101.html
Oil & Water Plumbing
The intake and exhaust plumbing often receives the focus leaving the oil and water plumbing neglected.
Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.
Following a hot shutdown of a turbocharger, heat soak begins. This means that the heat in the head, exhaust manifold, and turbine housing finds it way to the turbo’s center housing, raising its temperature. These extreme temperatures in the center housing can result in oil coking.
To minimize the effects of heat soak-back, water-cooled center housings were introduced. These use coolant from the engine to act as a heat sink after engine shutdown, preventing the oil from coking. The water lines utilize a thermal siphon effect to reduce the peak heat soak-back temperature after key-off. The layout of the pipes should minimize peaks and troughs with the (cool) water inlet on the low side. To help this along, it is advantageous to tilt the turbocharger about 25° about the axis of shaft rotation.
Reduced Oil Flow – The ball bearing design reduces the required amount of oil required to provide adequate lubrication. This lower oil volume reduces the chance for seal leakage. Also, the ball bearing is more tolerant of marginal lube conditions, and diminishes the possibility of turbocharger failure on engine shut down.
Last edited by fimotorsports; Jun 10, 2006 at 10:38 AM.
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