Ted B

iTrader: (6)

In short, you can't have the best of everything. To get more of anything, one has to give up something else. It is up to YOU as to what constitutes the best compromise.

IMO, split profiles (in this particular application) make the most sense for those who don't have or want to use cam gears.

IMO, HKS 272s are perfect for 90+% of those who stay with the stock turbo. Going larger requires greater tolerance for fussy characteristics, and better tuning than milder cams.

Ted B

iTrader: (6)

This isn't so much due to advance or retard in general, but occured because you apparently changed the timing of the intake cam only and dramatically altered the LSA.

sparky

iTrader: (1)

FWIW = for what it´s worth, Sarge

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

I was just talking with the shop that's going to do the install. They said they've done quite a few straight 280's and just recently installed a set in a car almost identical to mine with no appricable loss of low end TRQ or sluggishnes, but pulled great from 32-3300 rpms, which is about were my stock turbo seems to pull hardest (full spool about 2900-3200 rpms @ 21.5 psi).
They haven't installed a split 280i/272e as of yet. So my question is, do you need the cam gears w/ the 280/272 combo, or just with the 280/280? The 280/272 combo would cost less w/out the gears, so I like that option, but I don't want to have any tuning issues.
What say you?

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

bump

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

I do not recomend cam gears unless you are going to have the engine properly degreed by a professional who knows how to set them up. (Harold a/k/a Dr. Time comes to mind from PR)

The problem with the 280's is not slugishness its difficulty to idle as smoothly as the 272's do in some cars. In most cases I can tune the 280's to idle very acceptably but they are a tad rogher than the 272's.

race17k

iTrader: (5)

what do you mean by some cars? do you recommend 280's on just a mail in flash ?

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

Al, as you know, you'll be doing the tuning after the install. Will it be safe to drive in the interim until you tune it?
A rough or lumpy idle is not a concern with me. I've always liked the "lumpity lump" sound in a car w/ an aggressive cam, so as far as that goes, it's a non-issue. I just want it to be more enjoyable to drive than it currently is, ie. have more of that throw you back in the seat feeling and be able to sustain it thru the upper rpms. The car is a real beast when your in the powerband and I want to increase that "beastyness" w/out loosing anything.

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

"race17k",
How do you like your Nitrous IC chiller, is it worth the $? can you feel it appricibly when you hit the button?

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

bump fo answers

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

With the 280's it comes down to having sufficient vacum to draw a steady stream of air through the mass air flow

There are things we can do to raise the level of vacum throgh tuning

People with certain intakes, and certain VTA bov set ups often have very low vaume and as a result the idle gets quite rough

As I said with tuning I can make most idle decent and the mail in flash is also very helpful

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

The NOS fmic sprayer makes power mostly through the introduction of nitrous into the air intake as it fogs the engine compartment with nos

IMHO you would be better off with a wet 35 shot if you feel like lugging a nos tank about

Alcohol injection is prob the safest and best upgrade you can make to deal with heat

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

No sweat ! Just stay off boost

DynoFlash

iTrader: (91)

I agree HKS 272 - 272 are my personal preference on those with stock engine and rpm limit

Sgt Blamo

iTrader: (1)

Al,
were looking at going with the 272/280 combo, as this seems like it could be an interesting balance between the two.