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clutch adjustment?

Old Jul 14, 2006 | 12:48 AM
  #1  
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From: Canyon Country
clutch adjustment?

Hi everyone, I have on 05 Evo and have low miles. Now hardly almost never get the clutch chattering thing, and my clutch never slips (unless I do by accident), so I am assuming my clutch has plenty of life left, but when I let out the clutch pedal the clutch doesn't grad until the pedal is about an inch or two from the top. I've heard you can adjust the pedal to make this better, is this possible and if so how do I do this. (already searched the how to's) Thanks for any help.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 01:59 AM
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check out the last post in this thread. i read a how to some where but i couldnt find it. but its pretty simple.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ghlight=clutch
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 03:43 AM
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From: Canyon Country
Originally Posted by evojacko
check out the last post in this thread. i read a how to some where but i couldnt find it. but its pretty simple.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...ghlight=clutch
Thanks, this helped. Anyone else have anymore usefull info? Thanks again.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 04:00 AM
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From: Socal :)
6k miles

So I have 6K miles on my stock + IX MR and I am getting a lot of chatter at low rpms launching the car. It seems to like to be revved more than i am used to like 2K + and slowly let the clutch out.

I have launched the car (learned how) about 8 times--- several of which have done some damage to the clutch ...nasty burnt smell....I know launching the car is hard on the clutch, but I have raced many cars before and never blown a clutch this easily....

Thoughts? Is this normal? Should I adjust the clutch? (FWIW I trying to reduce my launches, but it is so damn hard to resist... ) Thanks

Last edited by cij911; Jul 14, 2006 at 04:06 AM.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 07:57 AM
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
The chatter is from the smoked clutch. You can mitigate it perhaps a bit with a stiffer front engine mount, but its not likely to go away until a new clutch/flywheel are installed.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 08:00 AM
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From: St. Louis
The clutch in these cars is the weak point. However, you can get some decent use out of the stocker. I put over 30,000 on my stock clutch and took it to the track at least twice a month. I would run between 5 and 8 times at the strip and then drive it home. This car is also my daily driver. Quick slip is the key. With practice (alot of it) you can launch with little to no clutch smell. However, when the clutch goes (mine is on its last legs) you will know it. Exedy ceremetallic here I come!!! Can't wait....
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 08:51 AM
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From: Columbus OH
How to adjust the clutch pedal: http://evomoto.com/tech_info.php?tec...6846d4d7146902

Be careful not to adjust the clutch engagement too high or low. Below is an excerpt taken from my conversation with ACTman:

Originally Posted by ACTman
If you adjust the rod too low then you start traveling the clutch later and the engagement clearance around the clutch disc is reduced. Having less air gap will cause drag on the disc and the syncros have a harder time syncronizing the speed of the disc. Of course if you adjust too high, you will preload the hydraulics.
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 08:58 AM
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From: Ft. Lauderdale, Fl
what does preload the hydraulics mean? when i adjusted for my exedy...i jacked up my car and did the whole tire moving thing, its setup right now for as soon as i barely move my foot the tires spin....but the engagment is almost all the way up...idk if somethings up...but it just doesn't seem right... it driving well... but ive never driven a car with such a high engagment...
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Old Jul 14, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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From: Denver
Originally Posted by 4 Wheel Slide
what does preload the hydraulics mean?
It's kinda like having a little bit of pressure on the pedal, ALL the time.

The clutch should compress itself to create the clamping force. the hydraulic line from the clutch pedal is ONLY used to overpower this self-clamping effect to unload/disengage it. If you adjust the pedal too far in one direction, you'll be loading the hydraulics and preventing it from being able to back out completely. This will cause problems as the master cylinder wonlt be able to "bleed" itself fto compensate for wear on the clutch, and will wear out your throwout bearing as well.
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