need some help, 3rd and 4th messed up
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From: Fort Bragg, North Carolina
need some help, 3rd and 4th messed up
i have the evo 9 mr. i dont know what the problem. i will try my best to explain it and hopefully someone can help me with some ideas...... ok, something is wrong with my 3rd and 4th gear. i can put it into 1st and 2nd, 5 and 6th and reverse just fine, feels normal. but when i try to put it into 3rd or 4th its real hard. it doesnt make a grinding noise. i can put it inot 3rd or 4th and it works, but its just really hard to put it into those two gears. does anyone have an idea as to what may be wrong?
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a little ove 10,000 miles, pedal engagement feels the same as it always has. everything feels normal expect for when i try to put into 3rd or 4th. its just started lastnight. i have raced it a few times. but when it started i had not been racing. and fluid was checked and is good.
are you modded? you should take it in under warranty, it's well documented that 4th gear is the weak point of the 6-speed. people have stripped teeth off of it before, maybe that's what happened to you. does it go into gear and stay in gear when you go to 3rd or 4th?
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yeah im moded, it stays in gear when i force it in and drives normal once its in the gear. i just had a ACT street clutch and flywheel put in like 2 weeks ago. it has ran and felt just fine until lastnight though
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your problem is the act street clutch. organics are known to do that kind of stuff. switch it out to the pucked discs next time. that's all. i have the same problem with my exedy organic stage 1 kit too. just the clutch, there's no problem with the tranny.
then it would probrably have done it with the organic factory clutch also, i don't think the organic clutch is the problem being there are so many others running that same clutch without this issue. have you checked the rubber bushings on the end of your shift cables attached to the tranny(under the battery)for tears or damage to clips holding the ends or the cable itself? sometimes that causes hard to shift conditions or gear lockout. if the rubber's are torn, buschur sells upgraded metal ones for the 6-speed(not on site, have to phone in order). make sure the clips securing the cables to the top of the tranny are holding the cables in place as well, if the cables aren't secure it could cause hard shifting as well. just take the battery out and give the cables a good once over and let us know. being that you just rcently had the clutch installed, i could see the clips on the cables being a possibility.
Last edited by hondafan; Sep 27, 2006 at 05:09 PM.
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From: Fort Bragg, North Carolina
thanks for your replies, im sure its not the cable though. i took the battery out and disconnected the cable and tried to manually shift it into the gears with my hand, same thing happened.
what fluid did they fill it with? the 6-speed requires a thinner oil than the 5-speed. it takes diaqueen super multi gear 75-85 GL-4 factory and the manual states that if using something different it must be an EXACT equivilent. being that you're in alaska, it's probrably semi-cold and a thicker gear oil like the 75-90 the 5-speed takes may cause tougher shifting. just trying to look for little things first instead of just telling you to yank the tranny and send it off.
it's the 3-4 slider. on the 6-speeds they have about half the wall thickness and warp when they get too hot.
once it warps it starts to bind as it slide from the 3rd hub to the 4th. this in turn causes more pressure and wear on the shift fork thus making more heat. you get the picture.
i'm surprised that this happened on the street though since it take a bit of heat to warp it.
i had my first one go at 1200 miles on the first 25minutes of a trackday at thunderhill.
they rebuilt it and i put 5k on it just to make sure it was broken in this time and it let go at laguna seca three sessions in. there are other posts about the problem out there as well.
here is a pic of one that got too hot...

the one on the left is a good 5-speed and the right is a cooked 6-speed.
you can see the wall thickness difference.
once it warps it starts to bind as it slide from the 3rd hub to the 4th. this in turn causes more pressure and wear on the shift fork thus making more heat. you get the picture.
i'm surprised that this happened on the street though since it take a bit of heat to warp it.
i had my first one go at 1200 miles on the first 25minutes of a trackday at thunderhill.
they rebuilt it and i put 5k on it just to make sure it was broken in this time and it let go at laguna seca three sessions in. there are other posts about the problem out there as well.
here is a pic of one that got too hot...

the one on the left is a good 5-speed and the right is a cooked 6-speed.
you can see the wall thickness difference.
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