Rev Hard Cast Exhaust Manifold
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Charlotte, NC
I have most of the stuff to do the swap, but I have been diverting funds towards the RB26/240sx project. I am also in the process of selling my home and moving to Charlotte, NC so that has also delayed my effort. If I get a chance I may drive to www.MPFAB.com in a few months and do the swap one weekend with Drifto.
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From: Work - New York, Alaska, Mexico or the Caribbean. -Home - Tx Hill Country
I saw that one. I didn't want to do the ebay thing. It's hit or miss and if I want this manifold a week or so from now it might not be there. I found someone that sells it since I posted, but it's close to $300. No one else seems to sell it online which is surprising given it's low cost.
I hate to bring a thread back on topic, but I just finished building a custom turbo kit around this manifold....
The pick was taken before completion (no hose clamps, etc.) but I have now been driving on the combo for a few weeks. The manifold fit just fine, so far so good. All I did was some basic port matching to gaskets (head and turbo) and coated it.
I'm not one to go cheap on parts just to save a buck (this same car has PSS9 coilovers, AEM EMS, Aquamist HFS-5, Oliver rods, CP pistons, Ferrea valvetrain, etc. etc.) but I also don't buy into the "if it's not a $1k+ tubular manifold it's crap" philosophy. The cast pieces definitely have their advantages: more compact, less surface area to radiate heat, increased durability, more heat making it to the turbo, etc. Let's put it this way, for years I listened to everybody on Supraforums talk about how lame the cast manifolds were and how they cost "tons" of power versus the tubular headers. Well, the PT70/cast manifold turbo kit I built for my Supra makes 816rwhp which is basically as much as I've ever seen a header make with that same turbo so I guess a "ton" must not be as big as I thought.
Anyway, I don't want to derail the thread again with more ramblings, but the bottom line is, if you can fabricate, this is a very good option for a DIY kit. Then again, if you can fabricate, you can probably build a header too
The pick was taken before completion (no hose clamps, etc.) but I have now been driving on the combo for a few weeks. The manifold fit just fine, so far so good. All I did was some basic port matching to gaskets (head and turbo) and coated it.
I'm not one to go cheap on parts just to save a buck (this same car has PSS9 coilovers, AEM EMS, Aquamist HFS-5, Oliver rods, CP pistons, Ferrea valvetrain, etc. etc.) but I also don't buy into the "if it's not a $1k+ tubular manifold it's crap" philosophy. The cast pieces definitely have their advantages: more compact, less surface area to radiate heat, increased durability, more heat making it to the turbo, etc. Let's put it this way, for years I listened to everybody on Supraforums talk about how lame the cast manifolds were and how they cost "tons" of power versus the tubular headers. Well, the PT70/cast manifold turbo kit I built for my Supra makes 816rwhp which is basically as much as I've ever seen a header make with that same turbo so I guess a "ton" must not be as big as I thought.
Anyway, I don't want to derail the thread again with more ramblings, but the bottom line is, if you can fabricate, this is a very good option for a DIY kit. Then again, if you can fabricate, you can probably build a header too
That really is a clean looking setup. I unfortunately went with a custom built tubular manifold, but I already wish I had just bought the Rev hard. Cast is the way to go when it's done right.
I am definetly agree on the cast manifold. At one time the fastest fwd turbo street car was on a cast manifold, matt keller from inline pro with his b series honda. And it look just like that in the picture. Nice setup by the way.
Tubular is the way to go when done properly. The problem is 99% of the guys running tubular really need a cast. I don't care who what why when where, I will crack any tubular manifold within a year. Its a guarantee. If its on the street you should probably be running a cast unless you enjoy tinkering with your car before heading out for groceries.
No numbers yet... don't have a local AWD dyno or a 1/4 mile track
Impressions... it's a ball bearing 50-trim (Precision Turbo SC50R) and although it spools PDQ, there's no confusing it with the stock IX turbo. Spool is very smooth and although you miss out on the instant torque hit of the stock turbo, you enjoy a continuous strong pull all the way to redline with no falling off of boost. Racing 2nd-4th gear against my friend's IX which has a 3" TBE, flash and MBC @ 21psi, my car was pretty much dead even with him when I was running 15-16psi. When I bumped it to 19psi then I started pulling away from him pretty decently. Haven't gone beyond 20psi yet or pushed the timing. The plan is to run 26-28psi with full timing on meth, but I haven't had the time to finish the meth install yet (I should clarify that the motor in the car is currently stock, the 2.3L stroker is being built separately). I would say that if you are going to be running on purely pump gas, then a setup like this is somewhat of a waste because you aren't _that_ much faster at those boost levels. Stock turbo + alky would surely whip up on a 50-trim on pump only. But the turbo's ability to go well beyond that boost range is what enticed me.
One thing that is night and day is the sounds. I am addicted to the rushing intake noise, turbo whine and BOV sounds that the factory does such a good job of hiding. To me, those are part of the reason that I love turbo cars over similar HP vehicles that are NA. I hate it that factory turbo cars are so quiet that you can't even tell it has a turbo. That was my whole reason for recirculating the WG dump back into the downpipe - to keep the loud exhaust noises from drowing out the turbo sounds. If I wanted to hear "open header" sounds, I'd build a freakin' Chevy Nova
When I bought it, the seller's name was "iconsport" but now it's listed under proturbousa. No idea if they are the same person/company, but the manifold itself looks identical, and it's $10 cheaper now
