Twin Pump Install Pics!!
Dec 15, 2006, 09:28 PM
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Twin Pump Install Pics!!
Attention!
To those that have ordered from me, please be aware that the fittings are just hand tighten on the pumps when i assembled them. Please dont forget to put fuel resistant sealant or teftlon paste on them. The paste works but i found that permatex fuel resistant sealant is the best. Loctite has something very similar to the permatex as well. Ive heard alot of good things about that too.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ad_Sealant.htm
Well I got some pms from guys who want to know how hard it is to install and what it takes. So i did a install on my own car and documented it all with pics for you guys to see. Please contact me with any questions. I just got a call from my attorney with the thumbs up so they should be shipping next week. You will also be able to get them through some of the EVO M Vendors (selected vendors).
Step 1: Take off the seats (sorry no pic available)
Step 2: Take off the 4 phillips screws holding the plate that covers the fuel pump assembly. Also take off the plate on the passenger side as well. The passenger side houses a float valve as well as the feed ports to distribute fuel from the passenger side to the drivers tanks. (sorry no pics available)
Step 3: Take off the ring that holds the stock assembly in place. They are 8mm nuts. In the pics, i had already taken it out. Please note that the lines and electrical harness must all be taken off before the ring can be removed. I didnt want to put the ring back in to take the pic because they are a pain to take out.
Step 4: Remove the nuts on the passenger side that holds the cover in place,( this is optional but it makes it easier to take the fuel line off of it.) Then undo all the harnesses and lines connected to it.
Step 5: Carefully remove the stock sending unit by lifting up and making sure not to break the float. (sorry no pics)
Step 6: Check out the float valve, it is held on by 2 clips (one on each side). Carefully with your fingers or a flat head, pry the tabs back and slide the float off the factory sending unit.
Step 7: Now that you have the float off, place it in a safe place
Step 8: Check out the suction assembly on, please refer to the picture below. It is very hard to miss. It is held on by 2 clamps. move the clamps down and slide it out.
Step 9: Place the suction assembly in a safe place as well. If you look at the picture below you will see the float and suction together. That is all you need from the stock sending unit.
Step 10: Here are the parts that you get with the kit. small hose clamps are included as well but i forgot them at the shop so i couldnt include them in the pics. Please note that hose end and lines are not included.
Step 11: Plug the pumps into the harnesses and slide them up into the hose and clamp them with hose clamps. (not picture because i forgot them at the shop)
Step 12A: look on the back of the float valve, you will see the 2 metal clips sticking out on the backside of the plug. These need to be pushed down so that when they slide on the float valve bracket, it doesnt touch the bracket and jump from one terminal to the other. I will try to get pics up later. You will see what i am talking about if you look on the backside of the clip.
Step 12B: Take the float bracket and slide the float vlave onto it. Using the supplied 4mm screw, secure the float to the bracket.
Step 13: look on top of the float valve, you will see three slots. The first slot is empty the other two slots have female connects in them.
Step 14: Take the yellow wire and plug it into the LEFT side of the two slot and the purple goes to the RIGHT side.
Step 15: Using the supplied 6mm cap screws, mount the bracket to the new fuel pump assembly.
Step 16: Then slide the clamp on and tighten it down to secure the pumps.
Step 17: go into the car and look at the fuel line that runs from the drivers side to the the passenger side. This line is there to feed the fuel from the passengers side to the drivers side because the EVO's have what you can call a saddle tank. Locate this line and remove it by pulling it out from the drivers side.
Step 18: locate the feed line that was pluged onto the old sending unit. It should be the last fuel line left besides the rubber return hose. This line, if you look carefully.. attaches to a hard lind right underneath. It is about 6-7 inches long. The picture below shows the line removed.
Step 19: Open the back end of the factory fuel pump harness and t tap the 2 small gauge black wire. the yellow wire goes to the LEFT side and the purple goes to the Right side.
Step 20: Using the supplied rubber hose with the hose end attached, feed the side that has no hose end, from the drivers side to the passengers side. This replaces the plastice line that you removed earlier. I used a rod and taped it on the hose and fished it through. A hanger or something similar would work as well.
Step 21: go under the car and slide the -8 or -6 (I used -8 return) return line up towards the opening of the tank. It is had to take a picture of where i slide it but if you went under the car you will see clearly where to route this. After you have it up, assemble your hose end.
Step 22: Now slide the -10 or -8 Feed line up the same way. It might be a little difficult but its possible to do with a little patience. Then assemble your hoses end on the line as well.
Step 23: Next step, you will need to grab the line from under the car and pull back some so you have room to put the new dual fuel pump assembly in. and slide the black ring back on but dont tighten the nuts yet. (sorry no pics)
Step 24: in the next pic you can see the outline of where the suction fitting is going to hit the lip of the black ring. take a dremel or grinder and just grind a bit off. This can be done ahead of time before u install everything. I just forgot to do it.
Step 25: Attach the return AN fitting onto the dual pump assembly and attact the hose to it. Its a little tricky to get it on but it will screw on. Just spin the whole dual pump assembly counter clockwise a tad bit and you should be able to get it on. I bent the frame back a little bit so i had more room but it is not neccessary. Notice how the black ring is cut around the return and feed area. Dont worry, I had to cut this because during the design process i ran into a bunch of clearance issues, you wont need to cut yours.
Step 26: Now spin the dual pump assembly clockwise so that its straight and install the -10 or -8 fitting onto the pump assembly. Then dig the hose end out and screw it on.
Final Step : Tighten the black ring down and make sure all your hose and fittings are tight. Route the lines to your regulator and rail and you are set. Be sure not to route by the exhuast of course but zip tie everything up, I used alot of zip ties. Or you could go and get those clamp and screw them to the chassis but but hate putting holes everywhere.
***** Make sure you use teftlon paste or permatex sealant. The permatex fuel resistant sealant is some good stuff.
Wiring the pump is very simple. I will have a diagram up later for it but for now i am pooped from the install and write up. Plus sniffing the gasoline doesnt help out. Im sure i left out a few things but im tired as hell so ill proof read it later. thanks
NOW GO MAKE SOME POWER!!!!
L J
To those that have ordered from me, please be aware that the fittings are just hand tighten on the pumps when i assembled them. Please dont forget to put fuel resistant sealant or teftlon paste on them. The paste works but i found that permatex fuel resistant sealant is the best. Loctite has something very similar to the permatex as well. Ive heard alot of good things about that too.
http://www.permatex.com/products/aut...ad_Sealant.htm
Well I got some pms from guys who want to know how hard it is to install and what it takes. So i did a install on my own car and documented it all with pics for you guys to see. Please contact me with any questions. I just got a call from my attorney with the thumbs up so they should be shipping next week. You will also be able to get them through some of the EVO M Vendors (selected vendors).
Step 1: Take off the seats (sorry no pic available)
Step 2: Take off the 4 phillips screws holding the plate that covers the fuel pump assembly. Also take off the plate on the passenger side as well. The passenger side houses a float valve as well as the feed ports to distribute fuel from the passenger side to the drivers tanks. (sorry no pics available)
Step 3: Take off the ring that holds the stock assembly in place. They are 8mm nuts. In the pics, i had already taken it out. Please note that the lines and electrical harness must all be taken off before the ring can be removed. I didnt want to put the ring back in to take the pic because they are a pain to take out.
Step 4: Remove the nuts on the passenger side that holds the cover in place,( this is optional but it makes it easier to take the fuel line off of it.) Then undo all the harnesses and lines connected to it.
Step 5: Carefully remove the stock sending unit by lifting up and making sure not to break the float. (sorry no pics)
Step 6: Check out the float valve, it is held on by 2 clips (one on each side). Carefully with your fingers or a flat head, pry the tabs back and slide the float off the factory sending unit.
Step 7: Now that you have the float off, place it in a safe place
Step 8: Check out the suction assembly on, please refer to the picture below. It is very hard to miss. It is held on by 2 clamps. move the clamps down and slide it out.
Step 9: Place the suction assembly in a safe place as well. If you look at the picture below you will see the float and suction together. That is all you need from the stock sending unit.
Step 10: Here are the parts that you get with the kit. small hose clamps are included as well but i forgot them at the shop so i couldnt include them in the pics. Please note that hose end and lines are not included.
Step 11: Plug the pumps into the harnesses and slide them up into the hose and clamp them with hose clamps. (not picture because i forgot them at the shop)
Step 12A: look on the back of the float valve, you will see the 2 metal clips sticking out on the backside of the plug. These need to be pushed down so that when they slide on the float valve bracket, it doesnt touch the bracket and jump from one terminal to the other. I will try to get pics up later. You will see what i am talking about if you look on the backside of the clip.
Step 12B: Take the float bracket and slide the float vlave onto it. Using the supplied 4mm screw, secure the float to the bracket.
Step 13: look on top of the float valve, you will see three slots. The first slot is empty the other two slots have female connects in them.
Step 14: Take the yellow wire and plug it into the LEFT side of the two slot and the purple goes to the RIGHT side.
Step 15: Using the supplied 6mm cap screws, mount the bracket to the new fuel pump assembly.
Step 16: Then slide the clamp on and tighten it down to secure the pumps.
Step 17: go into the car and look at the fuel line that runs from the drivers side to the the passenger side. This line is there to feed the fuel from the passengers side to the drivers side because the EVO's have what you can call a saddle tank. Locate this line and remove it by pulling it out from the drivers side.
Step 18: locate the feed line that was pluged onto the old sending unit. It should be the last fuel line left besides the rubber return hose. This line, if you look carefully.. attaches to a hard lind right underneath. It is about 6-7 inches long. The picture below shows the line removed.
Step 19: Open the back end of the factory fuel pump harness and t tap the 2 small gauge black wire. the yellow wire goes to the LEFT side and the purple goes to the Right side.
Step 20: Using the supplied rubber hose with the hose end attached, feed the side that has no hose end, from the drivers side to the passengers side. This replaces the plastice line that you removed earlier. I used a rod and taped it on the hose and fished it through. A hanger or something similar would work as well.
Step 21: go under the car and slide the -8 or -6 (I used -8 return) return line up towards the opening of the tank. It is had to take a picture of where i slide it but if you went under the car you will see clearly where to route this. After you have it up, assemble your hose end.
Step 22: Now slide the -10 or -8 Feed line up the same way. It might be a little difficult but its possible to do with a little patience. Then assemble your hoses end on the line as well.
Step 23: Next step, you will need to grab the line from under the car and pull back some so you have room to put the new dual fuel pump assembly in. and slide the black ring back on but dont tighten the nuts yet. (sorry no pics)
Step 24: in the next pic you can see the outline of where the suction fitting is going to hit the lip of the black ring. take a dremel or grinder and just grind a bit off. This can be done ahead of time before u install everything. I just forgot to do it.
Step 25: Attach the return AN fitting onto the dual pump assembly and attact the hose to it. Its a little tricky to get it on but it will screw on. Just spin the whole dual pump assembly counter clockwise a tad bit and you should be able to get it on. I bent the frame back a little bit so i had more room but it is not neccessary. Notice how the black ring is cut around the return and feed area. Dont worry, I had to cut this because during the design process i ran into a bunch of clearance issues, you wont need to cut yours.
Step 26: Now spin the dual pump assembly clockwise so that its straight and install the -10 or -8 fitting onto the pump assembly. Then dig the hose end out and screw it on.
Final Step : Tighten the black ring down and make sure all your hose and fittings are tight. Route the lines to your regulator and rail and you are set. Be sure not to route by the exhuast of course but zip tie everything up, I used alot of zip ties. Or you could go and get those clamp and screw them to the chassis but but hate putting holes everywhere.
***** Make sure you use teftlon paste or permatex sealant. The permatex fuel resistant sealant is some good stuff.
Wiring the pump is very simple. I will have a diagram up later for it but for now i am pooped from the install and write up. Plus sniffing the gasoline doesnt help out. Im sure i left out a few things but im tired as hell so ill proof read it later. thanks
NOW GO MAKE SOME POWER!!!!
L J
Last edited by FullBlown; Jan 13, 2007 at 07:09 PM.
Dec 15, 2006, 10:47 PM
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I guess sending my buddy w/ a SRT-4 to you says enough about what I see here 
I hope you can work something out for him. We really need a fuel system solution for his build.
I hope you can work something out for him. We really need a fuel system solution for his build.
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Dec 15, 2006, 11:15 PM
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Very nice curious to see how tuners react to this on pump gas.. wouldnt mind running higher boost at all times i dont know if you have a price for that yet, or posted one but when you come up with one Pm me.
i dont know if you have a price for that yet, or posted one but when you come up with one Pm me.
Dec 15, 2006, 11:29 PM
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Straight out of MN. Nice job Full Blown.
The final product looks badass, too bad it is going somewhere you wont see it
That deserves a spot in the engine compartment.
Nice job Full Blown.The final product looks badass, too bad it is going somewhere you wont see it
That deserves a spot in the engine compartment.
Dec 16, 2006, 03:51 AM
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Very nice!!
One question; How are the wires that go through the unit to the pumps&float sealed? I could'nt tell from the pics and they gotta have a liquid tight pressure seal for obvious reasons!!
Rest up and send on the wiring pics. Great stuff
One question; How are the wires that go through the unit to the pumps&float sealed? I could'nt tell from the pics and they gotta have a liquid tight pressure seal for obvious reasons!!
Rest up and send on the wiring pics. Great stuff
Dec 16, 2006, 07:05 AM
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Thanks guys, to answer some of the questions, The pumps wires are epoxied into the unit. Please contact me if you are interested in the setup. I will have full kits available with lines and fittings, filters as well.
Dec 16, 2006, 08:09 AM
#15
Can this assembly be easily modified to work in a fuel cell? I have thought about going to a large fuel cell, but I don't want the noise of an external pump.
Also, I note that your assembly uses the space ocupied by the stock fuel filter for the second pump. I assume you have an "in line" style fuel filter on you supply line to the fuel rail?
I have a bunch of off topic questions/speculation that I will put in another thread and link to here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...70#post3762570
Keith
Also, I note that your assembly uses the space ocupied by the stock fuel filter for the second pump. I assume you have an "in line" style fuel filter on you supply line to the fuel rail?
I have a bunch of off topic questions/speculation that I will put in another thread and link to here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...70#post3762570
Keith