Warning for anyone who cares about their transmission...
I don't understand why people just don't use the stock fluids. The Evo has thousands and thousands of Mitsubishi development hours in it using the stock driveline fluids. And guess what? They work! Its like some people have this fascination of using aftermarket stuff on their car, as if its always better or something. You see people talk about this all the time... their TC or diff is totally fine on the origional fluids, and then for some reason they decide their going to "try" something else. Why? IDK, maybe I'm missing something.
Also, just because someone has been able to go 20k,30k,40k, whatever miles on some part or fluid or something does not make it proven. People win at blackjack all the time, that doesnt mean they arent gambling. 30k miles is nothing for a moden vehicle these days. Nothing. Now if you say you knew 20+ vehicles that went 130k miles without a failure on some part, and none that didn't, I'd start to pay attention.
Also, just because someone has been able to go 20k,30k,40k, whatever miles on some part or fluid or something does not make it proven. People win at blackjack all the time, that doesnt mean they arent gambling. 30k miles is nothing for a moden vehicle these days. Nothing. Now if you say you knew 20+ vehicles that went 130k miles without a failure on some part, and none that didn't, I'd start to pay attention.
I don't understand why people just don't use the stock fluids. The Evo has thousands and thousands of Mitsubishi development hours in it using the stock driveline fluids. And guess what? They work! Its like some people have this fascination of using aftermarket stuff on their car, as if its always better or something. You see people talk about this all the time... their TC or diff is totally fine on the origional fluids, and then for some reason they decide their going to "try" something else. Why? IDK, maybe I'm missing something.
does a questionable job with the tolerance when they build them.Here are a few tips for all:
1. Let your tranny fluids warm up before you decide to aggressively shift.
2. Drive you car above 3000rpm for a while before your 1st shift so that all the parts of the tranny get properly lubricated and guess what you won't get a grind while shifting for the 1st time!!!
I can answer that for you, because at the 1st sight of synchro grind, people want a cheap/quick fix rather than to admit there is something wrong with the synchros in their tranny and get it properly fixed by sending it to TRE! It doesn't help that does a questionable job with the tolerance when they build them.
Here are a few tips for all:
1. Let your tranny fluids warm up before you decide to aggressively shift.
2. Drive you car above 3000rpm for a while before your 1st shift so that all the parts of the tranny get properly lubricated and guess what you won't get a grind while shifting for the 1st time!!!
does a questionable job with the tolerance when they build them.Here are a few tips for all:
1. Let your tranny fluids warm up before you decide to aggressively shift.
2. Drive you car above 3000rpm for a while before your 1st shift so that all the parts of the tranny get properly lubricated and guess what you won't get a grind while shifting for the 1st time!!!
you guys think i should change the fluids on my IX MR with 10k on it (just bought it used, bone stock) before I go road racing? i've got a some notchy shifting going from 1st to 2nd, and then from 3rd to 4th sometimes.
ive been using gm syncro mesh for years on end and never had a problem with it NEVER..... ive used bg syncro shift in my 1g and when i first put it in it was fine till it would heat up then the trans would get real notchy but thats the onlt trans fluid i have had problems with but 4 gm syncro mesh works great for me
IMPORTANT: After initial start up, bring the engine rpms to 3000rpm to circulate oil throught the tranny. Some bearing are only lubricated whey the car is driven fast or at fast idle.
Guess what folks, my tranny stopped grinding after that in cold weather. Ofcourse I let my car warm up for a while before I take it to 3000rpm. IT WORKS!!!!
Here's an explanation on the GL-5 issue from John of TRE. He says it's too slick and prevents synchros from doing their job as they should. I am looking at that fluid, so I'd like to know for sure if it will cause shifting issues...
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...1&postcount=48
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...1&postcount=48
The 5 speed transmissions in the EVO 4-8 tend to shift best with a GL-4 gear oil that meets specification for synchromesh. Like several have stated here and there on this forum, do not use a GL-5 in the transmission. I would avoid using any gear oil that claims to be GL-3, 4 & 5 spec. Instead, option only for a GL-4 oil that meets.....specification for synchromesh. These oils will improve the effectiveness of the synchronizers and that means a better shifting transmission.
GL-5 oils should not be used in the Mitsubishi transmission because they are too slippery and reduce the effectiveness of the synchronizer and you don't want that because the synchros basically act like brakes, their job is to bring the speed of the various transmission components up to the same “synchronized” speed with one another so the engagement teeth mesh at the same speed and don't get all torn up.
When it comes to the 6 speed Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen Super Multi Gear Oil, part #MZ313376. Could you use a different oil in this transmission? Most likely you could but consider this, Mitsubishi rarely uses the phase "exact equivalent" and when they state to use the Diaqueen SMGO or the "exact equivalent" it's probably best to follow the advice.
Now I'm going to hijack this thread for a moment.
In the transfer case and rear differential you must use a GL-5 "Hypoid" type gear oil. The transfer case features hypoid gears to transmit that power to the drive shaft. The word hypoid is short for hyperboloid which refers to the design of these gears. All you need to know is that hypoid gears; don’t share a common axis, run quiet (for the most part) and they are a strong design. Yet by design the gear teeth must slide across one another during their meshing and this is why you must us a GL-5 Hypoid type gear oil in the transfer case and rear end, you need that slippery oil here. Use the wrong oil and the transfer case will start howling and growling within a couple tanks of gas. Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil in the transfer case and rear end of the EVOs. This oil is a single viscosity, 90 weight, and the part number is #377610. If you can’t find this oil you must find a gear oil that meets the GL-5 Hypoid specification. Again this oil must ONLY meet GL-5 preferably 90 weight. Do not use a gear oil that claims to be GL-3, 4 & 5. These one size fits all type oils are not recommended anymore than a one heat range fits all spark plug. Lastly, multi viscosity index modifiers and dyes both reduce the film strength of the oil; they take up valuable parking spaces on the molecular level reducing film strength and that’s what the transfer case and rear end both need.
Thanks for the space,
Jon@TRE
www.teamrip.com
GL-5 oils should not be used in the Mitsubishi transmission because they are too slippery and reduce the effectiveness of the synchronizer and you don't want that because the synchros basically act like brakes, their job is to bring the speed of the various transmission components up to the same “synchronized” speed with one another so the engagement teeth mesh at the same speed and don't get all torn up.
When it comes to the 6 speed Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen Super Multi Gear Oil, part #MZ313376. Could you use a different oil in this transmission? Most likely you could but consider this, Mitsubishi rarely uses the phase "exact equivalent" and when they state to use the Diaqueen SMGO or the "exact equivalent" it's probably best to follow the advice.
Now I'm going to hijack this thread for a moment.
In the transfer case and rear differential you must use a GL-5 "Hypoid" type gear oil. The transfer case features hypoid gears to transmit that power to the drive shaft. The word hypoid is short for hyperboloid which refers to the design of these gears. All you need to know is that hypoid gears; don’t share a common axis, run quiet (for the most part) and they are a strong design. Yet by design the gear teeth must slide across one another during their meshing and this is why you must us a GL-5 Hypoid type gear oil in the transfer case and rear end, you need that slippery oil here. Use the wrong oil and the transfer case will start howling and growling within a couple tanks of gas. Mitsubishi specifies the Diaqueen LSD Gear Oil in the transfer case and rear end of the EVOs. This oil is a single viscosity, 90 weight, and the part number is #377610. If you can’t find this oil you must find a gear oil that meets the GL-5 Hypoid specification. Again this oil must ONLY meet GL-5 preferably 90 weight. Do not use a gear oil that claims to be GL-3, 4 & 5. These one size fits all type oils are not recommended anymore than a one heat range fits all spark plug. Lastly, multi viscosity index modifiers and dyes both reduce the film strength of the oil; they take up valuable parking spaces on the molecular level reducing film strength and that’s what the transfer case and rear end both need.
Thanks for the space,
Jon@TRE
www.teamrip.com
Thats interesting. Check this thread out.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=241137&page=2
post number 27 is TRE.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...=241137&page=2
post number 27 is TRE.
BG DOES NOT make Syncromesh THATS a GM fluid that Pennzsoil make a replacement for. BG makes syncroshift 2 DIFFERENT products. What cant people read and know whtat their talking about before they post.
OK, so without reading through six pages of arguments, what was the consensus on Synchromesh (the GM/Penzoil stuff) in the Evo 5 speed transmission. I have been running it since ~3000 miles and so far I feel it's a definite improvement in shift feel over the stock fluid. So, for people who know what they're talking about...
-Will Syncromesh harm the 5 speed Evo transmission?
-Does the Evo transmission have brass synchros? Would they be harmed by Synchromesh?
Just looking for some definitive answers here... thanks.
-Will Syncromesh harm the 5 speed Evo transmission?
-Does the Evo transmission have brass synchros? Would they be harmed by Synchromesh?
Just looking for some definitive answers here... thanks.
the Mitsu Dia-queen 75-85 6spd oil feels EXACTLY like Syncromesh. A friend of mine just stripped his 3rd gear in his 6spd and he had Syncromesh. ive done 20 clutches and used to preach mt-90. 25% of my customers call me back and want to know why their car doesnt shift as good any more. MT-90 sucks for shifting. When you crack open a bottle, look in the bottom at all the dark stuff. It actually separates in the bottle. My car on MT-90 had zero deposites on the magnet. Shifted like crap. My car on Syncromesh had fuzz on the magnet and shifted smooth. My car on the Diaqueen 75-85 had zero fuzz and shifts smooth. So thats where i left it............Ray
Evolved Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 896
Likes: 1
From: Pennsylvania
According to senior members the 6 speed is fine to use in a 5 speed tranny. According to this thread Mitsu uses BG syncromesh for stock oil in the 5 speed.
Uhm...ok dude I dunno what you're griping about considering Jon @ TRE and John at Sheptrans both recommend the BG Syncroshift II as well as Redline MT-90.
But, since it's gonna be spring soon and I plan on getting to the road course as soon as the weather allows, I'm gonna order some BG Syncroshift II tomorrow and swap it out soon.
Thanks again for the info.
Last edited by RedV; Feb 20, 2007 at 06:30 PM.