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Boost leak advice please

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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 04:58 PM
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Boost leak advice please

For reference here is a picture to explain my problem. This picture is of somebody elses car on here and includes all stock parts. It is only for reference.



The problem I am having is I cant seem to fix a boost leak I have at the circled connection shown here. I have a stock turbo and Buschur Racing Deluxe FMIC with LICP. I tried the Permatex liquid copper gasket stuff and it still leaks. I let it sit over night....I tried my damnest to make sure everything was squared up...I torqued everything...I made sure the surfaces were clean before applying the Permatex...etc., etc. I am getting very frustrated and could use some advice. Any type of gasket material or something that might work for me here? Thanks!!
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 05:06 PM
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From: Ulster County, NY
Did you apply the permatex to the OEM gasket, or use it alone on the flanges ???
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 05:12 PM
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From: Orlando, Florida
Order a new OEM gasket.
That way, you can run leak free without worries, .
On the mean time, just take it easy until you get the new gasket in.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 05:57 PM
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I did not use the OEM gasket. I did not run it when I first installed the Buschur parts over a year ago and everything was fine up until about a month ago. From what I remember from last year, the OEM gasket did not fit with the larger tubing of the BR licp anyway.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:01 PM
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You need to put on a oem gasket and that should fit the problem if not get some gasket sheets and make your own. For that matter high psi high temp silcone should work.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:02 PM
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From: A.K.A. DaFarmer
buy a new gasket, and trim it to fit.. otherwise 90% of the time it will leak.
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:05 PM
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From: Smog Valley
Lol!
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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From: PA
Originally Posted by dafarmer69
buy a new gasket, and trim it to fit.. otherwise 90% of the time it will leak.
Yeah I thought of that. figured I would post up anyway and see what people thought. I will probably just get an OEM gasket and trim the ID to fit the larger ID BR licp tubing. So should I go OEM gasket alone or OEM gasket + Permatex?
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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:13 PM
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From: Smog Valley
Not to be a dick but the obvious solution is to use a gasket where you, for some reason, don't have one. If it doesn't fit trim it.
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 04:16 AM
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From: PA
Originally Posted by MIVEC8
Not to be a dick but the obvious solution is to use a gasket where you, for some reason, don't have one. If it doesn't fit trim it.
Well here's the deal. One, the liquid gasket material says that it is to be used in place of a gasket, so to do so and follow the directions seems like a legitimate course of action. But forgetting that, I put this pipe on last year with no leak. A leak developed here recently and since I needed to pull the pipe off anyway I decided what a great time to have a local shop (www.GForceDesignConcepts.com) weld a nipple on it. So they actually resealed it this time around using some type of liquid gasket from Ford. When I dropped the car off again last night for them to re-fix the leak, I asked if I had a gasket on their and he said yes there was one. He said it was still good so he reused it. So I guess I was wrong above. I forgot I did have the OEM gasket on there.

Whatever though. I will get it fixed today...
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 05:33 AM
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From: Toms River, NJ
I used the stock gasket + black high temp silicone. No leaks. Ever.

If you still have a leak, check the flatness of the compressor outlet, as you may have warped it from tightening one side too much at first. Remember, its aluminum, not steel!
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 08:03 AM
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From: PA
OK well the stock gasket was there after all...lol. It is still good so I reused it. I think perhaps the problem was this...The stock licp is plastic and has a thick flange. The BR flange is SS and thinner. One of the compressor bolt holes is a thru hole and one is a blind hole. My guess is the stock bolt I reused was bottoming out slightly on the blind hole. I put a lock washer under the head to space it a bit and now everything seems fine. I also checked the surfaces with a straight edge and they do not seem to be warped. I am going to let the RTV set over the course of the day and hopefully tonight when I do another boost leak it will be solid as a rock!

Also the good news is I made 330whp with this leak so hopefully my car runs a lot better now without it!!!
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Old Aug 15, 2007 | 03:26 PM
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From: PA
did a boost leak test and everything seemed tight! Then drove the car around pretty hard for about 20 mins, went home and let the thing cool off a bit, then did another boost leak test and everything seems solid. No leaks from what I can tell with the ear or with soapy water. I peak to 24psi and hold 22psi for the most part till falling just under 20psi at about 7300RPM. I guess this is normal from what I have read over the years but I thought I could hold a tad more. I think I will turn the boost up a bit...back to where it was when I got tuned (about another 1/4 turn of the Hallman and 1-2psi). Thanks all....
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