my engine blew....any thoughts and help?
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here ya go from the meth injection section in advance.
I also found PHd research work done. Its finding are;
Our calculations indicate that methanol adsorbs chemically by donating electron charge from the methanol oxygen to the surface aluminum. We find that the surface atomic structure changes upon adsorption, most notably the spacing between the outermost Al and O layers changes from 0.11 Angstrom to 0.33 Angstrom.
Water and oxygen in sufficient concentrations inhibited attack, probably by virtue of the protective aluminum oxide that is maintained in their presence.
Also from another research finding,
methanol exhibits both hydrophobic and hydrophilic character. It has an —OH radical which can bond readily with the surrounding water molecules. It also has a methyl radical which cannot bond and is hydrophobic. Both headgroups are sufficiently simple in structure to be interpretable in a diffraction experiment at the atomic level.
so the final conclusion is, Adding 100% methonal will cause corrosive problems on aluminum, Adding water offsets this corrosive problem. methonal is hyrophilic.
As long as you use fresh methonal/water mix every time you start the car, dont lean it out to much because of the extra Oxygen from hyrophilic nature of meth. And there is no left over methonal left inside the chamber by running the engine without using meth for awhile you will probably will not experience problems.
this I guess can get expensive having to toss away tons of unused methonal.
here are a few of the links
http://www.isis.rl.ac.uk/isis2001/hi...ydrophobic.htm
http://pubs.acs.org/cgi-bin/abstract...ef950164e.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methanol
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I also found PHd research work done. Its finding are;
Our calculations indicate that methanol adsorbs chemically by donating electron charge from the methanol oxygen to the surface aluminum. We find that the surface atomic structure changes upon adsorption, most notably the spacing between the outermost Al and O layers changes from 0.11 Angstrom to 0.33 Angstrom.
Water and oxygen in sufficient concentrations inhibited attack, probably by virtue of the protective aluminum oxide that is maintained in their presence.
Also from another research finding,
methanol exhibits both hydrophobic and hydrophilic character. It has an —OH radical which can bond readily with the surrounding water molecules. It also has a methyl radical which cannot bond and is hydrophobic. Both headgroups are sufficiently simple in structure to be interpretable in a diffraction experiment at the atomic level.
so the final conclusion is, Adding 100% methonal will cause corrosive problems on aluminum, Adding water offsets this corrosive problem. methonal is hyrophilic.
As long as you use fresh methonal/water mix every time you start the car, dont lean it out to much because of the extra Oxygen from hyrophilic nature of meth. And there is no left over methonal left inside the chamber by running the engine without using meth for awhile you will probably will not experience problems.
this I guess can get expensive having to toss away tons of unused methonal.
here are a few of the links
http://www.isis.rl.ac.uk/isis2001/hi...ydrophobic.htm
http://pubs.acs.org/cgi-bin/abstract...ef950164e.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Methanol
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As for the corrosion issues .. methanol corrodes aluminium if it is IMMERSED over a period of time.. what you do when you spray methanol is like minimal time in the intake (unless there's wetting or the nozzles leak) and then its burnt / vaporised..
In fact if 100% methanol absorbs water and is sprayed into the engine.. it will not cause a blockage in the nozzle.. water actually helps in delaying detonation..
Check out This website for more information regarding what you need to know about 'water' injection
I've been using mixed water/alky for more than 4 years and the car is tracked frequently ... 20-30 mins of high boost high load on the track with no issues.. And the only time I had to rebuild the engine was when the oil cooler hose broke loose on the track and the engine seized ..
..........interesting thing is, based on the dyno chart you have posted in another thread, it looks as if they ran the engine to ~7,500
what is the rpm interval of the dyno chart used?btw, who does your nails
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yeah, i was refering to engine life.......the reason why i asked, SOME people who have taken their stock rod/rod bolted engines past 8,300 have experienced big end failures / spun rod bearing....but this is 95% of the time in cylinder #1.
..........interesting thing is, based on the dyno chart you have posted in another thread, it looks as if they ran the engine to ~7,500 what is the rpm interval of the dyno chart used?
btw, who does your nails
..........interesting thing is, based on the dyno chart you have posted in another thread, it looks as if they ran the engine to ~7,500
what is the rpm interval of the dyno chart used?btw, who does your nails
my nails ....jus playing man....ill check up on that dyno chart......and work on my car...so ill post later on tonite
I would think the M7 is to small for the amount of max boost you were running, but your engine didn't fail at that level of boost so who knows. I would still think that you would need an M15 to run that much boost with an FP Green.
No - you are reading into my words
I have stated previously in this thread that I have no basis to question the tuning on the OP's car and that the work I have seen from AMS has only been very good. To me there is no reason to question the quality and competance of the tuning provided and PLEASE do not try and put words in my mouth.
My statement was directed at my former customer who had TWO (2) tunes from me and who never had any engine failure - but somehow had a SEL which he attributes to my tune and also says that he was unable to reach me by phone.
I have suggested that my former customer contact me to discuss his issue and a possible resolution - however - it seems clear that he has no intention to contact me or resolve his problem.
I was trying to put his problem in perspective.
He claims that my tuning is dangerous yet out of the thousands of cars I have tuned there is no incidence of engine failures related to my tuning.
Al
I have stated previously in this thread that I have no basis to question the tuning on the OP's car and that the work I have seen from AMS has only been very good. To me there is no reason to question the quality and competance of the tuning provided and PLEASE do not try and put words in my mouth.
My statement was directed at my former customer who had TWO (2) tunes from me and who never had any engine failure - but somehow had a SEL which he attributes to my tune and also says that he was unable to reach me by phone.
I have suggested that my former customer contact me to discuss his issue and a possible resolution - however - it seems clear that he has no intention to contact me or resolve his problem.
I was trying to put his problem in perspective.
He claims that my tuning is dangerous yet out of the thousands of cars I have tuned there is no incidence of engine failures related to my tuning.
Al
# 1 - You want to keep the car as much as possible a EFI car with the precision of a fuel injected fuel delivery. Progressive boost referenced systems are very crude and have poor resolution, especially as in the case of the OP where the MAX was set to 20 psi.
#2 - With a small nozzel in the event of a failure you have a better chance to survive until you notice the problem as the alcohol is a smaller proportion of your total fuel and if you tune on the rich side there may be enough gas to keep you running.
#3 - With a smaller nozzel your alcohol suply lasts longer as you are spraying less
Therefore, the way to properly size an alcohol nozzel is to use the smallest nozzel that will supress detonation for the given application. You move up in jet size until there is enough alcohol to achive the desired octane and charge temp reduction needed.
Every car is different
A GT35R can actually work better than a green of stock turbo with pump and alchy as there is less back pressure and better cylinder evacuation.
Which nozzel to pick really comes down to how an individual car is reacting.
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From: wexford,pa
ya that is what i thought, no comment cause I called you out!