View Poll Results: Did Mitsubishi screw up on the clutch?
Yes, You screwed the pooch



483
61.69%
No, The clutch is fine.



300
38.31%
Voters: 783. You may not vote on this poll
Did Mitsu screw up on the clutch
You know what? I bet the clucth issue is a very simple miscaculation on Mitsu behalf, and would be almost impossible to prove.
I bet the step height was off on a batch of these cars. IF it is off by millimeters, the clutch will die VERY FAST, and may not fully disengauge fully when you shift (SOUUND FAMILIAR?!?!?!?!?) or never fully engauge so you are always slipping in some form.
I broke mine in perfectly and my car didn't even see boost until 2000 Miles on the car. The cutch does indeed need to be broken in properly, especially on these cars, not like a truck of fart wagon. You can tel when the clutch needs to grab, took me two weeks, cuz I had a LOT of Highway driving....
I bet the step height was off on a batch of these cars. IF it is off by millimeters, the clutch will die VERY FAST, and may not fully disengauge fully when you shift (SOUUND FAMILIAR?!?!?!?!?) or never fully engauge so you are always slipping in some form.
I broke mine in perfectly and my car didn't even see boost until 2000 Miles on the car. The cutch does indeed need to be broken in properly, especially on these cars, not like a truck of fart wagon. You can tel when the clutch needs to grab, took me two weeks, cuz I had a LOT of Highway driving....
Originally posted by umiami80
You know what? I bet the clucth issue is a very simple miscaculation on Mitsu behalf, and would be almost impossible to prove.
I bet the step height was off on a batch of these cars. IF it is off by millimeters, the clutch will die VERY FAST, and may not fully disengauge fully when you shift (SOUUND FAMILIAR?!?!?!?!?) or never fully engauge so you are always slipping in some form.
You know what? I bet the clucth issue is a very simple miscaculation on Mitsu behalf, and would be almost impossible to prove.
I bet the step height was off on a batch of these cars. IF it is off by millimeters, the clutch will die VERY FAST, and may not fully disengauge fully when you shift (SOUUND FAMILIAR?!?!?!?!?) or never fully engauge so you are always slipping in some form.
I believe it's possibly a combination of things. Let's review:
Pressure plate and disc = Tests adequate for power and has good design and materials. Clutch size is 240mm which should be alright.
Restrictor = slows down clutch engagement to prevent transmission damage. It burns clutch instead. Transmissions are under warranty. Clutch isn't.
AWD = Very little tire spin, harder on clutch.
Hydraulic line = Long rubber line designed to reduce negative feedback (vibration) to driver's foot. Also reduces positive feedback making it difficult to modulate clutch consistently.
Stock flywheel = Pretty light (about 14lbs) for spunky feel. As a result this makes the car harder to launch. More clutch slip required. Not really thick which makes it harder to absorb heat.
Gearing = Possibly geared too high in first for us spirited drivers. Requires more clutch slippage.
Wear limiter on pressure plate = Stops are built into the pressure plate to allow only a certain amount of wear. Once the disc wears to this point, the clutch is done. Most other clutches keep wearing until you are out of the pressure plate's working range or down to the rivets of the disc. Normally a clutch gets worse and worse until this point. Not the case with the EVO. Clutch feels fine one day and slips like crazy a couple days later.
Driving habits = Many people buy the EVO to go out and race it, whether it's down the street or on track. How can you resist that urge to plant your foot to the floor and feel the force plant you in the seat? Many Ricky Racers (sorry to anyone named Ricky) don't have a clue how to drive and not break parts (or burn clutches). It sure doesn't take a whole lot of time to burn up a clutch, any clutch, if you do it right.
Nuf said. Sorry to get windy again. Bad habit.
Here is a few picks of my clutch master stage 3. The disc is made by exedy and is a Steel backed Segmented Carbon/Kevlar material. It is being installed by the dealer.
Last edited by bpclements; Sep 6, 2003 at 10:13 AM.
ACTman,
This pressure plate looks very similar to yours. Do you know if it has the same clamping force or what the clamping force is. I guess Clutch Masters uses Exedy parts to make there pressure plates too.
This pressure plate looks very similar to yours. Do you know if it has the same clamping force or what the clamping force is. I guess Clutch Masters uses Exedy parts to make there pressure plates too.
yeah i agree the 1st gear in this car definantly leaves something to be desired for launching at least.
it is tall enough to be of use in some auto-x corners tho... vs lugging the crap out of it in 2nd... but if they changed 2nd haha..
yeah i just bring the rpms to where i want them... keeping throttle where it needs to be to keep them steady, then roll on the power quickly as i let out the clutch... i get to full power well before the clutch is totally out... the rest is just controlling how much you slip the clutch without overheating it and frying it.
just a quick question for actman... does leaving the car running between runs help ventilate / cool down teh clutch or does it make very little difference?? at some small auto-x's you can almost runs in fast enough that the clutch seems to start build up heat.
one thing a lot of people are gonna notice i think is even if they put in a great big grabby clutch, (assuming tranny& driveline is strong) dropping the new clutch isn't gonna do much else then just cause it to bog... especially with the light flywheel and sticky tires. time to practice those launches :-p
it took me about a clutch back when i was 17 to learn how to launch my first awd. i used to be into the street race scene too which is gHeY!!
it is tall enough to be of use in some auto-x corners tho... vs lugging the crap out of it in 2nd... but if they changed 2nd haha..
yeah i just bring the rpms to where i want them... keeping throttle where it needs to be to keep them steady, then roll on the power quickly as i let out the clutch... i get to full power well before the clutch is totally out... the rest is just controlling how much you slip the clutch without overheating it and frying it.
just a quick question for actman... does leaving the car running between runs help ventilate / cool down teh clutch or does it make very little difference?? at some small auto-x's you can almost runs in fast enough that the clutch seems to start build up heat.
one thing a lot of people are gonna notice i think is even if they put in a great big grabby clutch, (assuming tranny& driveline is strong) dropping the new clutch isn't gonna do much else then just cause it to bog... especially with the light flywheel and sticky tires. time to practice those launches :-p
it took me about a clutch back when i was 17 to learn how to launch my first awd. i used to be into the street race scene too which is gHeY!!
Originally posted by bpclements
ACTman,
This pressure plate looks very similar to yours. Do you know if it has the same clamping force or what the clamping force is. I guess Clutch Masters uses Exedy parts to make there pressure plates too.
ACTman,
This pressure plate looks very similar to yours. Do you know if it has the same clamping force or what the clamping force is. I guess Clutch Masters uses Exedy parts to make there pressure plates too.
Exedy is the only manufacturer of pressure plates for the EVO.
Aftermarket companies (stock or performance) use them to avoid the estimated $200,000 or more in tooling cost. Exedy also has a patent on the release bearing design.
Last edited by ACTman; Sep 6, 2003 at 05:16 PM.
Originally posted by pete98m3
just a quick question for actman... does leaving the car running between runs help ventilate / cool down teh clutch or does it make very little difference?? at some small auto-x's you can almost runs in fast enough that the clutch seems to start build up heat.
just a quick question for actman... does leaving the car running between runs help ventilate / cool down teh clutch or does it make very little difference?? at some small auto-x's you can almost runs in fast enough that the clutch seems to start build up heat.
Originally posted by ACTman
It's got our name, it's balanced, ACT packaging and is SFI Certified...yup it's ours. It must be the one we made for Johnson at Ultimate Racing in Canada, correct? I can see evidence of some work we did on it for testing.
Exedy is the only manufacturer of pressure plates for the EVO.
Aftermarket companies (stock or performance) use them to avoid the estimated $200,000 or more in tooling cost. Exedy also has a patent on the release bearing design.
It's got our name, it's balanced, ACT packaging and is SFI Certified...yup it's ours. It must be the one we made for Johnson at Ultimate Racing in Canada, correct? I can see evidence of some work we did on it for testing.
Exedy is the only manufacturer of pressure plates for the EVO.
Aftermarket companies (stock or performance) use them to avoid the estimated $200,000 or more in tooling cost. Exedy also has a patent on the release bearing design.
I mean this pressure plate and your yellow one pictured above.
Last edited by bpclements; Sep 6, 2003 at 07:10 PM.
Originally posted by ACTman
AWD = Very little tire spin, harder on clutch.
Hydraulic line = Long rubber line designed to reduce negative feedback (vibration) to driver's foot. Also reduces positive feedback making it difficult to modulate clutch consistently.
er to absorb heat.
Gearing = Possibly geared too high in first for us spirited drivers. Requires more clutch slippage.
Driving habits = sure doesn't take a whole lot of time to burn up a clutch, any clutch, if you do it right.
N
AWD = Very little tire spin, harder on clutch.
Hydraulic line = Long rubber line designed to reduce negative feedback (vibration) to driver's foot. Also reduces positive feedback making it difficult to modulate clutch consistently.
er to absorb heat.
Gearing = Possibly geared too high in first for us spirited drivers. Requires more clutch slippage.
Driving habits = sure doesn't take a whole lot of time to burn up a clutch, any clutch, if you do it right.
N
Dirk-
Say some guy pulled his restricter, swapped to the stainless line, and never "launched" his Evo. Also, say this guy has good stop technique for redlights- foot off the clutch and car out of gear with brake depressed, never leaving the clutch engaged unless he is shifting. But maybe he does road race and play around on the street from a roll sometimes. Will quick shifts at WOT cause excessive wear if he lets out of the gas 100%, puts the clutch to the floor while upshifting and release the clutch when the shift is complete? Is there any hope of him drag racing his Evo safely with the restricter pulled and SS line installed?
Sorry for the long explanation there, but I am wondering what a good way to prolong clutch life and still have fun with the car? Over the past few years, "this guy" has been much more damaging on his synchros and trannies (only lost one of those) than his clutches (he's never killed a clutch in 15 years), probably because of driving style.
Any advice you can offer from your professional opinion is GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
Sincerely,
Seth
PS: The tall first gear and the light flywheel thoughts are very interesting. They certainly make a lot of sense.
PPS: The only trouble "this guy" has seen out of his clutch/tranny/driveline in his Evo, is an upshift grind on the 1-2 upshift if he is hurrying the shifter a bit too much. He only did it twice and felt really bad about it.
Originally posted by Noize
Sorry for the long explanation there, but I am wondering what a good way to prolong clutch life and still have fun with the car?
Sorry for the long explanation there, but I am wondering what a good way to prolong clutch life and still have fun with the car?
Originally posted by bpclements
Disc closeup. If you look close you can see the Exedy logo on top.
Disc closeup. If you look close you can see the Exedy logo on top.






