You only have issues if you dont know what you are doing.

Mark

 

I have seen more popped "Built" motors then anything else. I doubt the massive majority can build a motor with as close of specs and tolerances as the Manufacturer.

I also never plan on over 500-550WHP so I will stay stock. IF my motor ever lets go I will probably end up with a Buschur 2.0 short block, keep it simple.

 

I have been biulding these motors for 8 years and every one has been 100% reliable with no rebiulds/faults or even wearing out.

Mark

 

Ok that's great, didn't ask, but that's great. Here is another fact for you. Built motors (on the Evo 4G63) have popped far more often then OEM. Sorry, just the case.


Lets see some data to support your 100% claim their, even the factory has 2%+ on failure, so I am going to call your bluff.

 

Can you explain a little more in depth, please?

 

Take a look at the oil ways on any crank, They have oil ways through the crank to supply the rod bearings with oil, The way this is done is to drill straight down the crank then across the rod bearing and then you screw or put a ball bearing in and pean it so it does not come out,
The problem with this is there is another turn for the oil to go through at lower rpm this is not a problem, However at high rpm the centrifugal forces start to cause a problem with the oil getting through the crank to feed oil to the bearings,
This is why you have problems with conrod bearings spinning or running dry when the rpm goes up and the bearing loads increase,
With the straight shot oiling as K1 cranks put it is that the oil way through the crank to the rod bearing has been drilled straight this fixes the problem with the high rpm oilflow and high bearing loads, But this is providing the oil pump can keep up there are mods to sort this by increasing oil flow through the block.

Mark

 

Being in the UK means you dont see my engines over there, But the UK guys know me and my reputation for biulding very strong engines.

Mark

 

Can a machine shop re drill the crankshaft correctly after the fact? And can you pm me what sort of mods that I can do to increase oil flow to the rods. I do not plan to rev the motor past 8000rpm...would this extra turn for the oil to make in the BC crank be a problem at max 8000 rpm? Thanks!

 

I am sure you are fine, but stating that you are 100%, not even Ferrari is 100%.

 

I will change it slightly So far 100% of the engines I have biult have been 100% reliable but that could change at any minute.

Mark

 

No you cant fix it, I would not use a aftermarket crank thats made like that due to the fact they could drill it correctly if they put in the effort in the first place,
You should be ok but then thats not you will be ok if it was done right in the first place.

Mark

 

It seems to me that there were problems with the 2.6L kit in the beginning back in '06.
It is also apparent that the problems (whatever they were) have been addressed.
Mr Aklexs' car is testiment to the fact!!!!

Check POST #83 https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/6557988-post83.html

 

A former Danish Formula 1 driver blew my stock engine up while tuning it with a AEM ecu, full boost on a GT 35 made a big hole in the stock engine
however i went for a new AMS 2,3 stroker engine and it drives like heaven, i'm doing 8200 rpm redline for drag, and 8000 rpm for daily driving..
I'm using BC 272 cams and the cams work just fine !

 

The other thing to take into consideration is a stock motor that last is seeing less than 550 awhp and less than 8,500 rpm. Built motors are seeing from 600 to 1,100 awhp, up to 10,500 rpm. Tuning mishaps, misshifts, overboosting (not tuned for, or out of turbo's operating range) are not the "built" motor's falt either.

 

It is on the shoulders of the engine builder to determine during assembly whether parts are going to work or not. While I dont support selling parts advertised as ready to install that aren't machined correctly. IT IS still up to installer to determine potential problems during install. It amazes me you toasted 3 motors and blame the parts and not the builder.