On the MSD Street Wire box it says part number 5551. Thats all I see on the box. There a 8 cylinder universal set with pencil style boots on one end and a bag of attachments for the other. Just make sure when you choose which end to use go with the silver one that short and not the gold. When you get the bag you'll see what I mean. You also need to trim the pencil boot so you make sure its connected to the spark plug and not bottoming on the end of the spark plug.

 

subscribed.. in case I have spark issue when my motor comes back :}

 

So I got the wires in and car starts up great and will drive fine. But when I got to give it WOT it just hesitates and major blow out issues. Im still using the old spark plugs that are only like 2 oil changes old with a .23 gap i believe there also bpr7es. Im going to pull them out and re gap to like .30 or .28 them see what that will do. If that dont work Im going to see if I can find some bpr8es and try them.

Im figuring the gap is to tight or I need to go back to the 8's.

 

Interesting yet not good intial result. I changed everything out for new upon install. start with .025 gap and move up from there if you don't have any miss. Did you use the aurora coils or the MSD equivalent and which wires?

I just put an Evo IX turbo on my car so I am going back to the dyno in a few weeks and going to run it closer to 28 psi and see what my results are. I am still on the hunt for a supplier for the opposite side connector for the coil harness wires. Anyone have any idea who sells that sort of stuffs.

/brox

 

Took out the spark plugs and brought the gap to .030 which showed no results.

Is it possible that the heat range is to low ? I have no idea and Im wondering if anyone else does. The car starts up great, free revs no problem, and driving is great. Just under a load theres just bad blow out.

No one in my area carries bpr8es. There always an order. What I did find though is that more small engines use them such as lawn mowers and snowmobiles so maybe a small engine shop.

 

Well as for a update. At school tonight changed the spark plugs over to bpr8es with a .030 gap went over all my connections and soldered them. Along with running a seperate power source for the ignitor and coils.

Still no results. Car will start perfectly and instantly and drive great. As long as I dont go WOT I can tach it out. As soon as there is a load on it they just cut out like a rev limiter but it will sometimes kick back in and then cut right back out.

Im not sure what Im in for. Im thinking the only thing it could be is the ****ty a$$ autozone coils screwing me over. Also as for wires Im using MSD 8mm wires.

 

Its gotta be those coils.

 

Thats what Im figuring but its weird. Like I said everything is great but WOT. Only thing I could think it means is that the coils from auto zone arent as powerful as they should be.

Think I should try Advance Auto to see if they have better ones ? Also I should point out that it means I got two defective coils and not just one. Also Broxma is also using Auto Zone coils with good luck.

One other thing Im thinking is that I need a bigger ground. If you take apart the factory COP harness after the connection the 12v and ground go from two wires back to one to the factory wire harness.

I ran a seperate power to the ignitor and another 12v power to branch to each coil. Leads me to believe maybe the ground isnt enough. But why am I having all there problems when Monsta and Broxma started it up and all was perfect.

Any ideas ? I can just keep rambling on about all this **** ive tried since 8 or 9 am this morning to no avail.

 

Hi there,
Back on again- been driving the car

Been running a drag tune at 35psi peak on a GT3076 with 1200cc of 100% Meth with no issues at all.

Quite a few friends of mine who are Skyline owners have been using the same coils (3 of them) all with no issues. We all got the coils from the same supplier and are the same brand.

On the bottom of the coils where the terminals are, there is a grey plastic insert. This can be removed with a small flat blade screwdriver and gives excellent access to the terminals for soldering.

Evo8Emperor:
Ive PMed you anyway, but thought you may want to try a different brand of Leads. I have changed to Bosch 8mm Super Sports and have had no issues. The original ones I had started to break down. Ive since found they were chinese copies lol and werent worth the box they came in.

I used the 12V and ground that went to the original coils. Is your ignitor a new or used one? They can be problematic when old.




When I get a chance Ill cleanup the original post and add in the parts numbers everyone has found and redo the wiring diagram

 

Well back to the issue again i guess. I went out bought new coils put them in and it did nothing for the problem. I made sure I hammered the 12v and signal into the coils so they were all the way in.

Only thing left is the ignitor. I wonder if its junk. What can I do to tell ? Would the car even run with a bad ignitor ? Im thinking not.

Thats my only other possibility and I dont feel like wiring in the stock cop and re do all the wiring for the connections.

 

hmmm, i wonder how much power can you run on a system like this

 

Anyone have any ideas I guess not ? I need to find out where I can find a ignitor asap and switch it out see if I have a faulty ignitor.

I wonder if the guy I bought it from tested it before he sold it to me.

 

Would anyone know if theres a way to test the ignitor ? I have a multi meter if its possible.

Also if not anyone have a ignitor that they know is good for sale ? I live in RI and our junkyards here arent that big and mostly everything is normally stripped very fast.

I still havent been able to figure it out and that is the only possibility left.

Thanks guys

Jeremy

 

FYI on the connectors... here is an excerpt from some thinking/talking i was doing. I haven't had much time to look into this.
-------------------------
The wire side of those connectors look strikingly similar to the metripack-150 series (though the gauge is a bit small on that connector)... but I can't tell if the plugin or the area around the female side is as large as the other. It also might require a zip tie to keep it 100% secure... but I'll keep looking.

http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/tuni...k_150-3way.jpg

http://thefrost.net/randomfiles/tuni...215091619a.jpg

I'll look more into those metripack plugs as soon as I can. I know that is not the specific brand (I'm thinking possibly Sumitomo may be the real one) because the locking clip is slightly different and there is no TPA lock on the connector, but the important bits that come together and the 2 keys on the side look to be correct. I just found out that ACE hardware may carry the MetriPacks, so I'll see if I can stop there soon....

 

Im back again and still with problems. Ive been trying to figure out what the problem is and havent figured it out.

Yesterday I hooked to GM coils back up with a set of new NGK BPR7ES gapped at .023 and it finally worked. I did a couple pulls down the road to third gear and all was fine. I parked the car left it running while I shut the garage up and on my home I go to give it some throttle and back to the same situation with it cutting out.

So tonight I pulled the plugs bought some new BPR8ES and gapped them first at .025 and still nothing. So I pulled them out re gapped them to .039 to see if I needed a larger gap with the coils but still nothing.

So after that I decided to try the 7's again with a gap of .039 but still nothing.

With stock coils the car is perfect. I dont get why it would work for a couple pulls and then just start to cut out again.

Im running 24 psi out of a Evo 9 turbo so Im not pushing anything crazy. Any got any ideas now that I know the system did work but just wont work ?