cam gear settings
You should not need to move the exhaust cam.
The S3s will give slightly quicker spool with the intake at 0, although the short rod/stroke ratio of the 2.3 should yield a little more power upstairs with the intake at -1 or -2. The reason for this is the short R/S ratio means the piston moves faster around TDC, which has the effect of behaving as if the intake cam is slightly advanced. Because of this, a 2.3 needs the intake cam slightly retarded to give the same characteristics as it would with the shorter stroke 2.0. If you have a IX and are using MIVEC, you would simply reduce the advance a bit after the turbo has spooled.
The S3s will give slightly quicker spool with the intake at 0, although the short rod/stroke ratio of the 2.3 should yield a little more power upstairs with the intake at -1 or -2. The reason for this is the short R/S ratio means the piston moves faster around TDC, which has the effect of behaving as if the intake cam is slightly advanced. Because of this, a 2.3 needs the intake cam slightly retarded to give the same characteristics as it would with the shorter stroke 2.0. If you have a IX and are using MIVEC, you would simply reduce the advance a bit after the turbo has spooled.
Same as GSC's. Slightly shorter duration brings the useable RPM of the cam more down into the range where you'll use the 2.3 (<8500, vs >9k for the S3's), and the extra lift helps fill the cylinder better during that shorter duration, as long as you have a ported head.
Can I get advice on cam settings for a 2.3L stroker with R2 cams and a EF3 turbo (I know turbo is kinda small for the build but had bought this before I impulse bought a 2.3L engine). Thanks in advance!
I dyno tested the HKS 280 and TME turbo setup well, and there is definitely quicker spool and a boost in torque by tightening the lobe separation angle (+2/0). I used that setting for best street performance. For the drags, -4/-1 made best top end power at the expense of some spool time.
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Joined: Jul 2016
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From: Bedfordshire
I never updated you on the out come of mapping
Here it is, this is with the cams set to 0,0
Better but still laggy. I since tweaked the cams +1 -1 which really did get the turbo coming in sooner
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Joined: Jan 2019
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From: Italy
For the Tomei Poncam 270, 105/115 LCs and 110 LSA, you should try retarding the exhaust cam by 3 degrees to tighten the lobe separation angle, which is too wide for rally work. Doing this will give lobe centerlines of 105/109 and a lobe separation angle of 107 degrees. The idle will be a little choppy, but the turbo will spool and respond faster.
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5
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From: Italy
For the Tomei Poncam 270, 105/115 LCs and 110 LSA, you should try retarding the exhaust cam by 3 degrees to tighten the lobe separation angle, which is too wide for rally work. Doing this will give lobe centerlines of 105/109 and a lobe separation angle of 107 degrees. The idle will be a little choppy, but the turbo will spool and respond faster.
I will try.
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Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Italy
For the Tomei Poncam 270, 105/115 LCs and 110 LSA, you should try retarding the exhaust cam by 3 degrees to tighten the lobe separation angle, which is too wide for rally work. Doing this will give lobe centerlines of 105/109 and a lobe separation angle of 107 degrees. The idle will be a little choppy, but the turbo will spool and respond faster.
What you think about +1/-1 setup?
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10
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From: Indonesia
2.3l ams
For the Tomei Poncam 270, 105/115 LCs and 110 LSA, you should try retarding the exhaust cam by 3 degrees to tighten the lobe separation angle, which is too wide for rally work. Doing this will give lobe centerlines of 105/109 and a lobe separation angle of 107 degrees. The idle will be a little choppy, but the turbo will spool and respond faster.
Hei Ted help me on this cam gear setting
AMS 2.3L
Ferrea +1mm valves in and ex
Full ferea valvetrains
Tomei Procam 280 11.5 both in ex
Full race manifold
Gtx35 AR 70
2.0Bar boost
1650 FIC
90mm Edelbrock Throttle
Magnus Intake manifold
Now producing 560awhp at +1/-1 setup
I'm going to add boost into 2.6bar and Nos shoot 100hp
Can you help me give me best setup so I won't be needing to run so many times on Dyno..
Really thank you..
This cam set has LCs of 110int and 115exh, with a wide LSA of 112.5. You should get nominally better power at 0/-2 or -1/-2 with a 2.3L, but be aware that you aren't getting much (if any) benefit from those oversize valves, simply because the factory ports and bowls are the bottleneck that no valve can fix. Consider a CNC ported head.
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Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10
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From: Indonesia
This cam set has LCs of 110int and 115exh, with a wide LSA of 112.5. You should get nominally better power at 0/-2 or -1/-2 with a 2.3L, but be aware that you aren't getting much (if any) benefit from those oversize valves, simply because the factory ports and bowls are the bottleneck that no valve can fix. Consider a CNC ported head.
As for info.. I already ported head to the max.. sorry forgot to mention it before..
It is fully built engine Ted..
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Joined: May 2019
Posts: 5
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From: France
Hi,
Can I get advice on cam settings for :
2,3l stroker
10:1 CR
Comp Cams 280
Evo 9 80 series turbo (with GTX style compressor wheel and 9 blade turbine)
Thanks
Can I get advice on cam settings for :
2,3l stroker
10:1 CR
Comp Cams 280
Evo 9 80 series turbo (with GTX style compressor wheel and 9 blade turbine)
Thanks
Last edited by ptitnicor; May 29, 2019 at 02:11 PM.